Nitori's OEM SR Foglight mod!

Nothing!
OK....why do the lights work when connected to 9v then?? switch off letters illuminate, push switch in both symbols light up.

Just trying to wrap my head around the science

And the good news is......since I grounded the wire coming out of pin26...... everything works! I just don't have a cool little switch on the dash to turn them off when the head lamps are on.

 

Maybe the meter is funky. The led for the letters gets power from red2 and black. The other led is powered with the switch on but also is grounded to black so it sounds like the switch is passing current. Your problem is elsewhere. Either the switch is supposed to ground the source or feed it 12v, you might have it hooked up with no source or no ground.

 

The only way the fog light symbol lights up when you press the switch in is like this..............
if you only do the red and black wires the letters saying " Fog Lights " illuminate, pressing the switch does nothing

 

switch " on" led gets power from ???? with the switch closed. Connect red ???? to B+ and black to B- and push the switch. If that doesn't turn on the other led then the switch is toast. The switch " on" led isn't connected and all to red2, red2 has no other connection than to feed the primary illumination led but the black wire is ground for both leds.

 

Green is connected to the other led after the switch, that's why the switch doesn't do anything.

 

The four wires are two power supplies(one for the switch and one for the primary led), one switch out, and one led ground. I'm slightly confused by post #245.

If the switch "on" led works as intended with green connected to B+ and black to B- then green is power in and red1 is switch out.

If the switch "on" led works as intended with red1 connected to B+ and black to B- then red1 is power in and green is switch out.

One of them will cause the led to light but the switch not be able to turn it off.

 

The hot lead from the "deck light" harness ( I think it's a beige wire ) Which is only hot when you turn on the headlights. For testing purposes I am using a 9v battery.

The black wire from the switch is connected to the ground wire in the "deck light harness"

Give me an hour to decipher what you said in post 248 LOL I literally need to sketch it out on a piece of paper, and I already have a freaking headache LOL

The real problem is pin 26 from the ECU is looking for a ground to activate the relay, not the other way around.

I do appreciate you jumping in and trying to help me figure it out.

 

Ok, I went back and checked the op against what you've posted. First off, the two pairs of wire for your switch operate separate circuits in the switch body. The black wire is ground for both leds but that's the only cross connection between them so for now just ignore the black wire and the one next to it(brownish?) I call red2.

Green and red1 are your switch wires, red1 should be the one connected to the ecu wire and green should be the one that connects to ground. Don't use the same ground as the black wire, dimmer ground and chassis ground aren't the same. Dimmer ground is a variable voltage and will prevent relay activation. You want the green wire connected to a good chassis ground(a screw into metal, a wire back to B-, or a harness ground wire).

It's difficult to consider all the permutations but I can see how using the dimmer ground could cause what you've described. With the correct ground you could connect the ecu wire to either green or red1 and operate the relay but only one of them will be able to turn the led off, the other will simply leave it on all the time. I'm banking on red1 to ecu and green to chassis ground.

 

You know, at this point I really don't give a dam anymore LOL The lights work when either the parking lights or low beams are on. They switch off with high beams. The instrument cluster light also works. I could simply put a toggle switch between the pin 26 wire and the chassis ground to turn them off. So what if I don't have some cool looking switch on the dash to impress people...I have the brightest, SAE rated fog lights on the planet as tested here https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-led-sae-j583-fog-pod-fog-light-review.554813/ and that was really all I was after.....better vision when driving at night

 

I got about halfway through my install tonight before my ambition ran out of talent. I decided to try to make my own underhood harness using the underhood connector, mostly because I was planning on running H9 bulbs (in Subaru Legacy housings, not stock Toyota) so I’d be doing some extra wiring anyway.

Long story short, I wasn’t able to get the plug wired up the way I wanted and ended up destroying the terminals in the process. Unless you want to run a stand-alone harness, my opinion right now is you’re probably better off spending the money on the Toyota OE harness...

 

When using the stock wiring connecting to the plug at the front of the radiator, what is the maximum amperage/wattage of lights that can be used?

Are the stock fog lights only 19 watt? If so is it okay to use the 55W H11 bulbs with the stock wiring?

 

do you think it'd be possible to wire them so they come on with DRL but off with low and high beams?

 

I'm not the one to answer that....... maybe one of the wiring gurus will chime in

 

Fogs installed!

 

Pandaluna Ave is a dirt road?? Fogs look good! Did you do the column switch or aux switch?

 

Will be doing an aux switch, I ran out of time last night to finish everything.

 

were you pre wired? The reason for so many question are the problems I'm having.......curious if your switch works when you install

 

You could, but we'd need to know if you're going to use the stalk with the separate fog switch ring (switch)

or a separate switch.

 

no i still have the stock SR stalk

right now my fog lights are just connected to a switch

 

So you added the missing blue wire to M6 slot 26 then to the switch?