Redeemed: rngr's Trail Taco w/side of T4R

Got quite a bit of demolition done today before I ran out of time. Pulling the interior, driveshafts, skids, and transfer case takes longer than you’d think. Hopefully I’ll have time to dig into the triple sticks tomorrow evening.

 

How much slop should be in the carrier bearing? If this is too much I’ll go ahead and replace it while the shaft is out.

https://youtu.be/NjQZmF_XYOs

 

Are you keeping two shafts or switching to a one piece?

 

Two piece

 

Might want to call the driveshaft shops since you will have to lengthen the front and shorten the rear. I have been having a hard time finding the driveshaft tubing in Alabama for Toyota shafts. Or are you getting complete custom shafts?

 

Taking them to Dave’s driveshaft shop in Nashville.

 

I may come see them too, can't get anyone around here to work on Toyota shafts.

 

I’ll let you know how they do. What are you needing done?

 

Looks tighter than mine and it's only 2 years old

 

Would.

 

I use 84 ,85 Toyota axles and driveshafts in the Suzuki Samurai I build and need the driveshafts shortened. I use the front driveshafts in the rear and on those the tube is the same diameter all the way down the shaft so no problem on that one. The rear shafts I use in the front and they taper down on both ends and are metric size. The shops around here can't get the tubing. They can build a complete shaft for three to four hundred but if I can get the tubing they will do it for $75.
Apparently the steel tariffs are making it hard to get metric tubing or so I am told.

I use the Toyota shafts because they can operate all the way to a 42 degree angle most other shafts can't do that.

 

That CB is fine. No worries there.

The amount of suck pulling the interior and shifters is second only to dropping both driveshafts. The inability to impact or ratchet wrench them off is super annoying

 

A little progress today. Took the case apart to remove the interlock pin and grind the little tit off the driver side shift rail to allow them to move independently.




All sealed up with the new shifter plate.



Leave it to TG to come in clutch when I need them by sending me some broken shit. Haha. Will call them up tomorrow.

Big thanks to my crawler A-team up in Illinois for answering all my questions.

Getting there!

 

Said broken shit

 

Yikes!

Will it still hold down in there?

 

Is that a new shifter base? Is that for the crawl box? If so I may have one in my garage somewhere.

 

Nope. The broken lip is what retains the snap ring

Yes and yes. I assume they’ll do right and send me a new one quickly. If not, might take you up on that.

 

Nice progress, man!

How was the shift rail work? Pretty straightforward?

 

Yes. This is all pretty straightforward once you figure out what to do. It’s the figuring it out that’s tricky. There’s shit for instructions for all of this. You kind of have to read 1000 things and piece it all together the best you can.

As for the shift rail, I trimmed it without removing it from the case. Just like you see in the pic above. I made a bed of oiled rags users it to catch filings and had a magnet positioned to catch the nub when it fell.

Completely disassembling the case and removing the rail is probably the smart way to do it though.

 

Nice! It didn’t seem like it would be too big of a deal.

I’m looking forward to seeing how everything else comes together for you since it’s not looking like I’ll be installing mine for awhile yet. Super stoked to see yours up and running soon though!