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Champion Radiator Aluminum 3 core swap

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by 1997tacomav6, Apr 12, 2018.

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HAS YOUR CHAMPION RADIATOR CORE FAILED?

  1. Radiator core failed 5k

    4 vote(s)
    10.8%
  2. Radiator core failed 10k

    4 vote(s)
    10.8%
  3. Radiator core failed 15k

    1 vote(s)
    2.7%
  4. Happy with radiator?

    18 vote(s)
    48.6%
  5. Radiator defect when new?

    5 vote(s)
    13.5%
  6. Radiator failed after 25k

    5 vote(s)
    13.5%
  1. Apr 8, 2019 at 7:22 AM
    #401
    BYJOSHCOOK

    BYJOSHCOOK Mr. Mojo Risin

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    So I replaced my radiator this weekend and so far it's working fine (didn't drive it much as I was quite busy with other things) but I noticed the petcock valve is weeping coolant. Even after I took it out and put a good amount of Teflon tape on it. So question is should I drain it again and add even more tape than last time or should I use some type of radiator epoxy or something similar to stop it.
     
  2. Apr 8, 2019 at 7:25 AM
    #402
    1997tacomav6

    1997tacomav6 [OP] V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger,Haltech, 800k

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    I actually put a LOT of tape when I installed mine 30k ago, no issues since then
     
  3. Apr 8, 2019 at 7:38 AM
    #403
    Shortman5

    Shortman5 Well-Known Member

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    Mine was too. I finally figured out that you have to turn the outer part with the ears out, like you’re unscrewing it. It feels like there’s some rubber in there so I was careful to not put too much force in it. When it stopped weeping I left it alone.
     
    1997tacomav6[OP] likes this.
  4. Apr 8, 2019 at 7:44 AM
    #404
    Shortman5

    Shortman5 Well-Known Member

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    My issue is that I installed what I thought was a 170 degree stant a year ago. It didnt do much and I was told over and over that only a better radiator will help lower temps. Well nothing has changed. I’m thinking I got a 180 in a 170 box on the thermostat.

    So here we go again, making a mess and having to fuck with it all over again to change the thermostat again. This time I have a OEM Toyota 170 degree Camry thermostat. Gotta go back in anyway because USPS fucked me when I paid for expedited shipping on belts to be delivered Sunday. Some dipshit marked it delivered to the mailbox but I never got them.
     
  5. Apr 8, 2019 at 7:48 AM
    #405
    BYJOSHCOOK

    BYJOSHCOOK Mr. Mojo Risin

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    Then I'll try and drain it one of these nights and add a bunch more tape and hope it fixes it.

    I'm not leaking from the valve it self but the nut that it's attached to so I guess just a bunch more Teflon and it will hopefully work :fingerscrossed:
     
  6. Apr 8, 2019 at 7:53 AM
    #406
    1997tacomav6

    1997tacomav6 [OP] V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger,Haltech, 800k

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    V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger, 56mm pulley, methanol injected Haltech ECU, AC Tvs1320 supercharger,(MUST DO) every 125,000- 150,000 needs rebuild Projector headlights HID 5 speed manual Amsoil for all drive train Smaller 56mm custom pulley, (MUST DO) 2004 DESNO fuel injectors, zero ping ping, 2004 side door mirrors Dick Cepek Rims, Michelin tires LTX, ATM Pathfinders Dynopro ATM ( that last 100,000 miles) Now running Dynopro ATM mud and snow tires KN cold air intake Cat back dual exhaust with ss exhaust tip, Raised exhaust tail pipe to 2" below body line Optima*dry cell battery,red top Alpine sirius radio, 200 watt amp, focal is165 split door pod speakers Focal door speakers Subwoffer behind seat Viper alarm, Electric Locks Dark tinted windows, bucket seats corbeau lg1 Tacoma Rubber floor mats TRD fender extenders, Bilstien shocks, King shocks JBA UCA trailer iv hitch, electric brake control, Drilled slotted brakes, High carbon steel (MUST DO) EBS green stuff 7000 series pads(MUST DO) TRD engine oil cap TRD stick shift, Marlin crawl shift kit. Rear sliding window 2002 4Runner functional hood scoop cut into Tacoma hood, 4Runner dual overhead map light Gentex Auto dim + Compass + Temp, garage,rearview mirror Snow Methonal kit stage 2 Custom 3 core aluminum radiator Linex bed liner Haltech stand alone ECU, Intake supercharger gauge. Stainless steel brake lines, Custom leather wrapped steering wheel, Haltech stand-alone ECU,
    Pull the whole petcock out if needed to see what going on, put a lot of tape on should do it. That tape is so
    thin it takes a lot if you have a larger gap
     
  7. Apr 8, 2019 at 8:10 AM
    #407
    Shortman5

    Shortman5 Well-Known Member

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    Could try pipe dope as well. Won’t degrade over time, it stays tacky, and I believe is more resistant to temperatures.
     
    burntkat likes this.
  8. Apr 8, 2019 at 9:07 AM
    #408
    BYJOSHCOOK

    BYJOSHCOOK Mr. Mojo Risin

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    Going to do both so I don't have to deal with it again haha
     
    1997tacomav6[OP] likes this.
  9. Apr 8, 2019 at 10:55 AM
    #409
    Yetimetchkangmi

    Yetimetchkangmi Well-Known Member

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  10. Apr 8, 2019 at 12:03 PM
    #410
    Shortman5

    Shortman5 Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, out of stock everywhere. But damn that’s a much better price than what I just paid for. Got one from Amazon and I’m going to have to cut it up.
     
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  11. Apr 8, 2019 at 4:17 PM
    #411
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    Don't see the need for a 170 stat unless you're running a blower. Motor was designed to run at 185
     
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  12. Apr 8, 2019 at 4:21 PM
    #412
    Shortman5

    Shortman5 Well-Known Member

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    That’s why I want to run the 170.
     
    burntkat and Blackdawg[QUOTED] like this.
  13. Apr 8, 2019 at 4:36 PM
    #413
    1997tacomav6

    1997tacomav6 [OP] V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger,Haltech, 800k

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    I have the 185 stat with supercharger and the engine never runs at 185.

    It runs at 188-190
     
  14. Apr 8, 2019 at 4:51 PM
    #414
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    That's fine. Under 200 is great. Lower that 180 isn't really good
     
  15. Apr 8, 2019 at 4:54 PM
    #415
    Shortman5

    Shortman5 Well-Known Member

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    Mine runs at 190-196. Exactly like it did before.

    I’d like it to run ~185
     
  16. Apr 8, 2019 at 5:01 PM
    #416
    1997tacomav6

    1997tacomav6 [OP] V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger,Haltech, 800k

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    V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger, 56mm pulley, methanol injected Haltech ECU, AC Tvs1320 supercharger,(MUST DO) every 125,000- 150,000 needs rebuild Projector headlights HID 5 speed manual Amsoil for all drive train Smaller 56mm custom pulley, (MUST DO) 2004 DESNO fuel injectors, zero ping ping, 2004 side door mirrors Dick Cepek Rims, Michelin tires LTX, ATM Pathfinders Dynopro ATM ( that last 100,000 miles) Now running Dynopro ATM mud and snow tires KN cold air intake Cat back dual exhaust with ss exhaust tip, Raised exhaust tail pipe to 2" below body line Optima*dry cell battery,red top Alpine sirius radio, 200 watt amp, focal is165 split door pod speakers Focal door speakers Subwoffer behind seat Viper alarm, Electric Locks Dark tinted windows, bucket seats corbeau lg1 Tacoma Rubber floor mats TRD fender extenders, Bilstien shocks, King shocks JBA UCA trailer iv hitch, electric brake control, Drilled slotted brakes, High carbon steel (MUST DO) EBS green stuff 7000 series pads(MUST DO) TRD engine oil cap TRD stick shift, Marlin crawl shift kit. Rear sliding window 2002 4Runner functional hood scoop cut into Tacoma hood, 4Runner dual overhead map light Gentex Auto dim + Compass + Temp, garage,rearview mirror Snow Methonal kit stage 2 Custom 3 core aluminum radiator Linex bed liner Haltech stand alone ECU, Intake supercharger gauge. Stainless steel brake lines, Custom leather wrapped steering wheel, Haltech stand-alone ECU,
    Getting a 170 stat I don’t think will change your numbers, but try and let me know
     
    burntkat and Speedytech7 like this.
  17. Apr 8, 2019 at 5:21 PM
    #417
    Shortman5

    Shortman5 Well-Known Member

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    This is always a debated subject. I’ve been told that before. Magnuson includes a 170 in the 4.0 kit. I don’t know why a company like magnuson would do that if it didn’t do anything at all.

    You may be correct. It’s possible my system is rusted on the inside not allowing the water to take the heat with it.

    It’s also possible I do in fact have a 170 stat and it allows the water to move too fast and won’t take the heat with it.

    Or maybe it’s just the fact you like in a high altitude dry climate and I’m in a sea level humid climate.
     
  18. Apr 8, 2019 at 5:30 PM
    #418
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    4.0 is a totally different motor and different blower. It's a sleeved block so keeping temps down is more important. And it uses an air to water intercooler. Separate from the coolant obviously but can't really compare that to our motor.

    Long as it's under 205 it's fine. You're under 200 so I wouldn't expect much of a change.
     
    burntkat likes this.
  19. Apr 16, 2019 at 9:24 AM
    #419
    BYJOSHCOOK

    BYJOSHCOOK Mr. Mojo Risin

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    So I got my leak to stop and it runs fine (other than AC clutch going bad) and I'm still getting the same temps 194-203. Little disappointed that nothing changed but since my original radiator shit the bed it's not as bad
     
  20. Apr 16, 2019 at 9:44 AM
    #420
    Shortman5

    Shortman5 Well-Known Member

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    Yep. Mine didn’t change much either. I really think the stock radiator could cool just fine and the thermostat does make a difference despite what people say. Just using a OEM thermostat with the juggle turned to 6 gives people about 8 degrees lower temps on a stock radiator. For me, using a cheap parts store stat without a jiggle valve gave me a drop of 5 degrees or so even before the new radiator.

    For my case I really think it’s the thermostat that sucks. It will work it’s way up to 199 then drop to 190 and sometimes lower then do it over and over.

    I have a 180 and 170 superstat waiting to install. When I get a chance I’ll install one and report back. Just haven’t decided which one to try yet.
     
    BYJOSHCOOK[QUOTED] likes this.

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