2011 Cabin Fan Connector Failure

So my cabin fan decided to go out again on the warmest day we’ve had in SC for a while. I am pretty much 100% sure it’s the connector that gives power to the fan. I know others had it melt and completely fuse to fan housing. My connector was acting up August 2016 AC cutting on and off and I pulled connector and it was a bit brown from heat, but not melted thankfully or fused to fan housing. So I got a new connector from Toyota for a few bucks installed it and no issues for almost 3 years. Just started acting up again after I had few tall friends sit up front and kick the damn thing or something. What a crap design to have that connection right where someone would easily kick it by accident. Not to mention that fan sucks and has no sack. My brothers jeep and other brothers Jetta blow cold air so strong it makes this look like a golf cart. I pulled plug and it’s a bit discolored,but not too bad. However, when I wiggle it I am seeing some slight blue sparks in connector which isn’t good. I can feel wires are a bit warm when it’s running too which means bad connection and resistance. I know others mentioned it was a known wiring issue with possibly too much current for the gauge wires Toyota is running or something. What’s bs is I think had that fan replaced under recall for chirping noise my 2007 also made.

Anyway what have others done to get this fixed for good?

Also any quick tips to get
me by for a few days would be appreciated.

I know this has been discussed before in other threads, but I need a quick fix if anyone can help me out before I can do it right or have time to search previous threads.

Thanks in advance!

 

Well one way for sure is to solder the wires directly to the terminals on the fan motor. Then heat shrink them.

( half serious ), it would prevent the loose terminals heating up. It would be a pain in the ass to remove the wires from the fan, but how often should that happen.

Or tell your passengers to keep their club feet off the fan motor.

 

I would also recommend making a permanent connection with solder and heat shrink.

 

After replacing the resistor module, connectors, and fan there has been no recurrence and it's been at least three years. I also replaced the connections on the control panel because it was cooked too. The blower isn't expensive and wasn't a big deal to replace.

 

This is the answer if you are good at soldering, have a heavy enough iron and clean the terminals thoroughly before attempting to solder. You could solder new heavier "pigtail wires" to the blower and then splice to the existing wire in a more accessible spot and/ or cut in a new aftermarket connector at that point for later removal of the blower.

 

Hi, My 2009 has just started giving me issues with the fan too, doesnt work on the first 2 settings, only on the highest. Would you mind explaining the chirping noise which was fixed under recall, my 2009 does the same thing, on the first setting, sounds like a rat making noises or a bird chirping in there and not sure if a 2009 would be under recall too

 

My 2007 had same fan chirping noise at low fan speeds also replaced under a recall I believe or some other replacement program. Got notice in mail from Toyota I think or dealer said there was a fan issue with replacement part. My current fan is pretty weak on low and second setting. Adequate on 3rd setting and on high.

 

What would cause fan to be weak on blower setting one and two? It’s fine on 3rd and 4th (highest). Thanks

 

I have no idea what metric you are using to quantify the term "weak" for speeds one and two. Could you explain?

The simple answer is that the blower is running slower from the resistance bridge and higher resistance.

Simply stated that is how it supposed to work.

 

Weak meaning barely blowing. I know low and next setting up should be less than 3rd and high but it wasn’t always this decreased amount of airflow on setting 1 & 2. It’s to the point you almost can’t hear air coming out of vents on 1 & 2 but if you put hand in front of vents you can feel it.

 

I got nothing if the filter isn't blocked... I'm guessing you have checked it. I've never ran my fan on position 1 or 2 I've always left it in position 3 or sometimes high.

 

Yeah 4 is high for my 2011 and I usually run AC on 3 or 4 anyway so it’s not that big of deal. Change filter regularly and just changed it bout a week ago. I will check the resistor when I get a chance out of curiosity, but reluctant to change it unless I lose air on high.

 

When the resistor fails you only have air on high, high never goes out unless you have a burned fan power connection or the connector on the controls burns.

 

Good to know thanks. Where is the relay?

 

My fan would only work on the 4th speed, the highest. I took out the resistor and had a lot of oxidation on the terminals. I brushed the terminals with brass brush and cleaned the terminals of any residue, the fan works on all 4 speeds now. Gave me enough time to get a replacement. Never had any problems in 11 years until now.