SEMA Wheel Dilemma

So I mounted my SEMA wheels to my stock 2016 OR with 265/70/17 KO2’s this week.

Good news: they look great and very aggressive.

Bad news: contrary to TW anecdotal evidence, there is rub at full lock in either direction, very annoying. Believe it’s from the mudguards.

The dilemma: I wasn’t planning on lifting/leveling this truck, but now it seems I’ll be forced to. Reading up I know to skip blocks to level, and will go with 5100’s.

The question: Can I just add Bilstein 5100’s to the front only to add an extra inch or so (w no supporting suspension mods etc)? Or is the right way to do it to add rear 5100’s as well? Don’t want to half ass it.
Also what setting should I place the fronts at for proper level?

Gratuitous Taco Sema pic for your viewing pleasure

 

Where is it rubbing? If it’s rubbing in the back, could try and get an alignment and have the tech bump the caster up.

5100’s would be a good bet. Use your OEM coils with no issues.

 

usually its the mudflaps that are the problem.

 

It’s rubbing the mudguards.

Thanks for the input. Can I add 5100s to the front only, and not change the rear? What setting should the front 5100s be at?

 

Take mud guards off? Try a different mud guard like rokbloks etc. I am running sema's and 0 rub even for the full bro flex shots at the mall.

 

My guess is the mudflaps. Mine rubbed slightly until I got an alignment. Smooth sailing ever since.

 

Truck seems to be properly aligned at the moments. You think that may be the cause?

 

I would start with the alignment and go from there. Pretty sure a little more positive caster will do the trick. Honestly I’m not 100% sure on the setting. Probably an answer somewhere on this site. But yeah you can run Billies in the front and stock in the rear if that’s what you wanna do.

 

Just cause it’s green don’t mean it can’t be tweaked to your benefit. Green just means “within spec” which is a wide range.

 

Can anyone tell me the correct 5100 setting for the front for best possible level? Thanks!

 

That's strange. I have the same setup and drove at stock height for almost 8k and didn't have any unusual rub. The only rub I had was reversing at full lock and hitting a slight bump in the driveway. It would rub slightly on the mud guard. Other than that, it was perfectly fine.

 

For setting the 5100’s, you should measure from hub to fender, front and rear. That should give you an idea of how much rake you have and you can lift accordingly to level. Every truck has different rake. I’ve only got about an inch of rake, probably because of my hard tonneau and bed mat adding some additional weight over the rear.

That said, the cheap fix right now is a 25$ heat gun from Lowe’s though. You can create over an inch of space with those mudflaps by heating and flattening the bulge in the flap.

 

Great idea, I’ll try that

 

Looks like mine are Weathertech (McNeil) mudguards. You think that’s why?

 

Same setup as you. 265/70/17 Toyo open country at2 SL tires on TRD pro Sema wheels. Bilstein shocks set on 4th perch and a one inch block. Don't mix the shocks, the 5100s on my stock coils and alignment is perfect. No rubbing anywhere. The ride is awesome. Trust me you will love it.

 

Dang this thread has me concerned as this is the tire/wheel setup I’m wanting. My concern is if the OP has rubbing and with my added SSO Slimline bumper plus the Smittybuilt winch I’m guessing I have lost over an inch already. If the op has issues I’m sure I will.

 

I don’t know the difference in specs between the SEMA’s and the T4R off road premium wheels that I have. I also added spidertrax spacers which I think put me at a total of -6 offset. On factory suspension I rub. I heated and flattened the flaps and rub occasionally when reversing at 3/4 lock. I’m lifting real soon and alignment so hopefully I’ll be totally rub free but then.

My wheels:

 

I'd start by working on fixing that

No. Fix the rubbing of the flaps

5100s lift by adding preload to the springs, changing lots of things. You may not enjoy the result. Or you may think it's awesome. If you insist on lifting, swap in a better spring to create your lift w/o 'cheating' w/optional perches.

Seems? As in drives ok? Fair indicator, but not the true test. A good tech with a calibrated machine is the true test. Most folks can rarely feel castor, expecially in a truck, and that's what may solve, or improve, the issue as mentioned above by @TacoZim.

This. After having the castor checked / improved (if possible), then try the heat gun. If you have WeatherTech as you state, it may or may not work as well as altering OE flaps. Which most folks who actually go off road remove anyway.

So if the WTs don't get clear, and you want flaps, try to find some OE takeoffs. Shouldn't be hard.

Me? I'd throw the flaps away before I messed with a suspension I had no need to modify.

 

All of this. X2

 

5100s with 885 coils. About leveled out my truck. I also up put a 1" rear block and ended up (last time I measured) with the rear being 1/2" higher. (perfect rake in my opinion)