Methanol 4.0

Sounds like a good enough reason to me to go that route

Can't wait to see your new setup once you get everything plumbed from the bed. I may do this later down the road as well

 

I had my 1st one in a urd intake tube. I thought it was too thin to tap. Surprisingly it was just fine with the 6000 glue. Bung is probably the best way though.

 

dont no when ill have time to finish it all. been working crazy hours. but hopefully gonna get everything i need this weekend and gotta just get it done. cant wait to drive it again been to long. i think it was mid october i put it up.

 

Yeah im running mine tapped in a URD intake right now. No issues as of yet.. I think @Athlaos is too, but with like 15 nozzles lol

Bung seems like the way to do it correctly. I like the idea!

i bet man! i would have a hard time putting mine away for the winter, i love driving this thing

 

Ya, I tapped a few holes for my nozzles in the URD pipe. I figure it's good because the redundancy means if one of the nozzles gets plugged, there's still two more.

 

Hey guys, I'm going to (finally) rig up my controller to reference MAF signal - which wire on the URD extension harness should I tap again?

@White lightning boosted @BassAckwards @o0opackersfano0o

 

I feel like i remember it being the middle wire.. but im not 100% sure as ive never done this type of install myself.. let me do some digging and see if i can find the post i am thinking of..

 

Here you go @Athlaos

 

What wire goes to the maf from the meth controller?

 

Middle signal wire. Loginfailed taught me that.

 

Thanks dude, I'd guess that means the R-Y wire is the correct one.

 

Yes. Hope your arm gets better man. I know body pains. Reason I know I'm alive.

 

Hey guys,

I was wondering, do you know what the MAF voltage is at various g/s going through the intake? For example, 3V at 200g/s, 3.7V at 250g/s... rough numbers will be fine. I'm just setting my MAF reference for the water/methanol injection, and I had to set the start point all the way up at about 3.3V otherwise it would start spraying too early. Note I saw 444g/s the other day when data logging and that still appears to be within the MAF sensor's range, I am wondering if the max voltage is higher than the maximum that the Snow controller can take, it only goes up to 5V.

@Hacktacular I heard a rumor you may know these answers.

 

@12TRDTacoma may as well

 

This is my most immediate answer to this situation.

The longer version to this answer is that you can reduce the voltage scale on the MAF electrically using a device to do so which would allow you to run higher gm/s through it. Maximum is 5 volts so there is a range to work with, you have to know what you are doing though..

As far as mechanical voltage scaling of it goes, you can run a 3.5" tube instead of the 3"

The Tundra intake air cleaner is a 3.5" design which is why it has a max of 440 gm/s right from the gate.

 

Here is what HP Tuners is showing for MAF Airflow VS Voltage.
This a 2010 stock calibration. (without supercharger)
NOTE: this is lbs/hr NOT g/sec
JustDSM posted it in g/sec just after I did.

 

With aftermarket intakes, and other EMS/Piggyback solutions the g/sec reported is virtually meaningless. Most all piggyback controllers are going to modify the maf signal to either richen/lean the truck at various points to achieve the AFR the tuner/calibrator wants.

But here's the tables for the stock maf/housing calibration.

 

Thanks guys. Makes sense that the g/s reported by the UCon (gag all you want) will be different from the actual g/s and not provide a useful signal.

I am still curious, the stock MAF is calibrated up to 5V, but if the actual airflow goes ABOVE 323.85g/s (at the 5V mark) would the actual voltage through the wire connecting the MAF to the ECU continue to go higher? I understand one should not rely on the accuracy whatsoever past that point, however I'm just curious - it wouldn't make sense to me that it would just hit a plateau at 5V regardless of how high the flow goes above the uppermost 323.85g/s.

 

Great question!

You are correct about the 5v calibration. If airflow surpasses that 324g/sec mark, the MAF will peg at 5v even though you may actually have 400g/sec passing across the MAF. The way the MAF works is by maintaining a constant temperature across a thin element (wire) in the MAF tube. The amount of voltage required to keep the element at this temperature is what the ECU references. So if it takes 2.34v to maintain the temperature of the element, it's flowing 29.02g/sec.

Unfortunately the sensor won't read beyond 5v as it's reference voltage is only 5v. So in order to read more airflow with the stock MAF it must be installed in a larger housing which flows more air and the MAF voltage table recalibrated.

 

That's correct, as 5v is all the PCM will supply the MAF. If you attempted to increase the 5v supply you would damage the PCM in the process, as no sensor or item which is tied to the PCM (European may be different) is designed to exceed a reference voltage of over 5V. Other voltages exceeding would be tied to battery voltage or some version of reduced resisted voltage under 12v likely still supplied by the battery voltage.

In other words, don't monkey with the computer maximum voltages. Lol.