Oil change at jiffy lube question

My stealership charges $11 for Dino oil and $20 for synthetic oil changes. I still do my own at home.

 

An oil change costs me less than $40. using mobil 1 from Wally world an oem filter. $100.+ for an oil change... Sounds like they used some really coarse sand in the vasaline.

 

Quick oil change places are the bane of the automotive service industry. For people who aren't able to do their own OCs....find a trusted independent shop and establish a good relationship with them. You might pay a bit more. But a few bucks is worth it IMHO

 

Troof, I used to work for one, I'd tell anyone who asked why their oil change was $30-40 ($8 labor, which wasn't making anyone any money, $15-25ish for oil, $5ish filter) when other places would do $20... how many times have I recommended BS work and wallet flushes you don't need? Obviously it's a chance to get the car on the lift and give it a look while the oil is draining and note necessary work that could actually make $$$... but no one was going "oh, 50k miles? Time to flush your trans, coolant, and brake systems for the low price of $495.79!"

I picked up a customer from another shop who'd been paying about what OP stated for oil changes on a 1st gen Insight. They had apparently told him 0W20 was distilled from unicorn tears, and it took a filter with a housing mined from the peaks of the Himalayas. Yeah... less than 4 quarts, and the same $3 filter 4-cylinder Hondas had used for a few decades. I had to laugh that someone besides a quick-lube place or a dealer would try a blatant hustle like that.

 

If you are serious, please stop posting false information.

2nd gen Tacoma’s are Port injected dinosaurs that are FAMOUS for being easy on oil.

A quality synthetic oil is going to be perfectly fine in a Tacoma for anywhere between 5-10k miles.

Many examples on TW and bobistheoilguy of much, much longer (10-20k) with an appropriate extended drain synthetic.

I’ve gone 10k+ many a time with exceptional oil analysis results (and no fuel dilution).

If you WANT to change out your synthetic at 3k, that’s your perogative. But please do not spew absolute nonsense like “you HAVE to change every 3k.”

 

So how is it that we have a member with over 400k on the original motor, regularly going over 10k between synthetic changes?

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/400-000-miles.404359/

 

I've had friends who worked at Jiffy Lube. The goal was to get a car in and out in 7 minutes or less for the oil change. They were to sell an air filter and serpentine belt to every customer who came in. There were multiple stories of cars getting started without oil in them, and one story of catching one on fire. My friends had taken high school shop classes and worked on their own cars quite a bit before they got their college jobs working at Jiffy Lube. They took pride in their work and were "car people", they didn't do stupid stuff like stripping plugs and double gasketing filters, but I feel like they were the exception.

The company I worked for used to make me take my company truck to Jiffy. The sales tactics were stupid, I finally convinced them not to continue using them. "You have a massive transmission leak, you should get that fixed", they said. I asked how low the level was and got "well, it was full" in response. LOL.

DIY is best if you have the mindset to take your time and be sure what you're doing is correct. Otherwise I would agree that an independent shop with good reputation and a working owner is the best bet. I use this type of shop now, and I "trust, but verify" when I pick the vehicle up.

The business model the quick lubes have is based on high profit for them, time savings for you. Quality isn't a priority.

 

Got a 2008 rav 4

 

Before I started doing my own, I used to go to Valvoline shops and they always did a good job. I've never heard anything bad about them. Also Oilstop has done my family's cars for years and never an issue. I think Jiffy Lube is known to be the most hit or miss, likely it largely depends on who runs and works at each particular location.

But the story in the past about their management making them tell lies to sell more product is very true and I think some of them still do. You know your stuff though and they can probably see that so they don't want to mess with you lol.

 

100% agree!

 

Another idiot troll spreading misinformation. Please eliminate yourself from TW and go troll the Honda ridgeline forums. Maybe you can convince a few gapers over there of your nonsense. I'm thinking you should go to work for Jiffy Lube... with that lack of knowledge you're bound to be hired.

 

This location I go to the staff there always thanks me for my service especially the manager as he shakes my hand after thanking me for my service . They also know I've got a very low mileage 17 year old truck that is kept very clean

 

Lol! Really, I'm laughing my ass off!

Thanks bro I needed that

 

In theory you are correct. In real world, your not. How many 1GR-FE have you torn down? I'm guessing none.

The engine is easy on oil you are correct. The problem is the design of the truck. With rear of the engine so close to the firewall, excessive heat on the rear cylinders causes issues. One of them is damaged fuel injectors. A leaky OR stuck fuel injector is a big problem. the fuel system is pressurized. Once you turn your truck off, the fuel will dribble into the cylinder and slowly leak past the rings and drip into the oil, thinning the oil. Not A big deal if you change the oil every 3k miles. It is a big deal if you do extended oil changes.

That's From 100%, turning the wrenches, first person, observing, real world experience.

Go pull your dip stick and smell it after 5k miles. Bet it smells hella like gas. then pull your lower oil pan, inspect cylinders 5 and 6. See that reddish stain????

That's from gas seepage.

Now you know, "and knowing is half the battle!"

Besides, you realize your berating me over letting people know that by spending $25 and 15 minutes extra a couple times a year they can make make sure it stays in perfect running order? Really? Proper cleaning cost more than that a week in materials.

 

If I were you, and others would agree, I would change your wife's oil personally from now on. I don't trust other knuckleheads working on either of our vehicles and sure as sh*t don't have the patience to call their B.S. like I know I'm going to have to every time I get it serviced somewhere. It's not that I'm arrogant or a know it all, I just know when someone is selling me and don't want to hear it anymore.

Your other option is to find a local mechanic that you know and trust (Mom and Pop shop), and get them to do your services if you don't have the time. You may pay a little more than "Jiffy Lube", but they're more likely to straight shoot you. Just my $0.02

 

Have you looked at the oil and filter to see that it's been changed?

 

I didn’t read the other responses.
But I change my oil every 5k using conventional oil.
Every once in a while I use synthetic blend but still just do 5k.
Why. Because that when the maintenance light comes on.

I’d feel fine going 7k on your wife RAV4.
Maybe check the level at 4k to see if it’s low.
If not, drive on.

 

Damn it...you had to go making complete sense and making me believe 3k is not a bad idea. If I'm anything I'm logical and that sir was straight logic.

Welp I guess I'm due..just over 3,550 miles on my 2018
Question is do I bother with synthetic if I'm going to change my oil every 3k miles?

 

If you're going to change it every 3k anyway, don't waste your money on synthetic. Dino oil will be fine

 

I hate reading threads like these. People shouldn't be getting fleeced in 2019 with the internet providing you with all the knowledge you need to know what to expect.