What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

I had those on my truck at one point. You will need spacers to run anything bigger than 265-70.
And dang, seeing my truck in its pre-lifted state makes me realize those tires were pretty big for stock height lol.

 

Hauled three loads of pine tree logs to the dump. This was my main purpose for buying the Taco. It does well.

Ordered an OEM timing belt kit to use for preparing the new(er) engine for a drop in.

Ordered an injector refurbish kit to refresh the injector o-rings, screens, and pintle caps on the new(er) engine project.

I'm still using the Taco while I prep and build out the engine replacement.

 

Anyone have a part number for the seat mounting bolts? Can’t find them anywhere online.

My new driver’s seat is in. Shaved the backside of the wrx headrest with a hacksaw and it fits real nicely. The side bolsters are sooooo nice. Completely different driving experience from the bench seat.

 

Yes

 

Replaced my steering rack guide with the newer type.


Before


After

 

@quetzal I'm fixing to do the same job on my 2003 DC, how did you center the turns on the clock spring.

 

That seat tho

 

I’ve been thinking of having my injectors sent off to be cleaned. Does this kit accomplish the same thing?

 

Need some oem bolts ?

 

A good injector cleaning and testing shop will wash solvent through the injectors, add new o-rings, pintle caps, and new screens. After they are done refurbishing the injector, they SHOULD run a flow test and provide a report for each injector's performance. I've actually never sent off an older healthy injector to be cleaned. I do refurbish them myself using the type of kit that I posted. I refurbished a set of healthy injectors roughly 6 years ago. They are still working fine today. It sure saved money and time when I decided to try it.

I have sent brand new injectors that I bought from a China-based eBay supplier to a cleaning and testing shop in Florida for flow rate testing at $7 each. Since I only paid $11 each for the new injector, I thought the deal was too good to be true so I wanted to get the injectors flow tested before I bothered to install them. I bought an extra injector just in case one was bad. It turned out that all seven injectors were good and I had a set of flow rated injectors that I used for flow matching during installation.

I am installing the kit on some injectors from an engine with 70,000 miles. The engine was last running on Feb 22, 2019. So they have not had time to suffer from being in a non-running engine for many months. I have had injector o-rings fail and start leaking (it causes a flooding condition) from age on a 15-year-old engine. Then I had the same injectors run fine for 19 years. All I can say is it is a good practice to keep the o-rings, pintle caps, and screens in good condition on an engine that is over 15 years old. The kits don't cost much money. It does take time to remove and refurbish, however.

This will be the first time that I will refurbish Toyota injectors. So I need to make a practice run to see how it goes. There should be lots of tutorials and videos on how to refurbish Toyota injectors. I should end up with 12 healthy injectors after I've completed the engine build and swap. Six will have been running in my current 3.4L and six will be running in the new(er) engine. I will most likely refurbish my old injectors since those are currently running.

The most important thing to remember when working with injectors is to thoroughly lubricate the o-rings and seals in motor oil before installation. I can't tell you how many times I've seen people rush into an injector swap job and forget to properly lubricate the new injectors. Then after they put everything back together, they discover they have a leaking injector that is due to a pinched o-ring from insufficient lubrication during installation.

 

I have gotten next to nothing done on my truck lately, other than washing it and the other vehicles, owing largely to working on my son's XJ. Or rather, supervising him. But the bushings are all replaced, wheels replaced (do NOT start me on Bart's Wheels. Goddamn things were by no means round) with factory Jeep aluminum wheels, and it is pretty damn smooth on the road now. All lubes are synthetic, and nice and clean. Brakes are all new, just good to go all around..

But the real pain in the ass has been bicycle related. I have a couple old aluminum MTBs from the early 90s that have been hanging from rafters for 25 years. Trying to get back into shape, going through these things... they barely shifted gears, tubes are toast, on and on. Replaced the quill stem with a threaded adapter, clamp-on handlebars with 4" less extension and a 1" rise bar (because I'm older now, and not streamlined so don't even pretend it). Had to tear the shifters down to parade rest and run them under scalding hot water to melt the lube out, which had dried to cosmoline. PB Blaster to free it all up, with a heavy dose of their chain and cable lube before closing them back up, and down all the cable housings. Thank God for YouTube, because I have forgotten quite a bit about the intricacies of adjusting and indexing deraileurs. I am waiting on a proper service stand to arrive tomorrow so I can adjust the derailleurs and finally ride. With that out of the way, maybe I can get to fabricating the battery holder for my head-mounted second battery. It's getting in the way in the passenger floorboard. I am debating moving the main battery to the bed as well. At least it would make good use of the dead space under the toolbox, specifically forward of each wheel.

 

If you were to obtain the opportunity sit in it, it would change your mind.

I was sliding around in my factory seats at Moab...

 

I gave up on trying to fix a 15 year old mtb. Dropped the coin on a 2019 Kona and havent looked back. Everything about it is just better.

 

I thought that icon meant that they were cool. I feel dumb.
I think you seat looks good. Is it comfortable??

 

I had those on my truck at one point.

Nice truck, red is my favorite...

You will need spacers to run anything bigger than 265-70

The OEM ones on the 2018 SR5 are 245-75 I think... kind of wrong... but I'll run them
for a while unless I perceive a problem... 265-70 is the OEM size for my 2002 I think,
that is the size of the Defenders I was thinking about... I want to ride good down the road,
I'm not going to Moab, just through some fields and down some dirt roads...

And dang, seeing my truck in its pre-lifted state makes me realize those tires were pretty big for stock height lol.

My truck is lifted, it looks a little funny with these tires on it

-Mike

 

Seeing your truck with that black two-tone strip across the bottom makes me want to do the same thing. It really adds to the look.

 

I was complimenting the seat? Lol

 

I kinda hate it


I like the cleaner look of paint all the way down. And that bedliner is a pain when it comes to waxing as it turns white.

 

Thought i'd throw my build in

 

When are you gonna convert to 4WDism?