The Lair

Randy has a lot of junk in the trunk.

 

Honestly that’s the easiest thing. It’s free, no wait time, and you’re already happy with it. Only reason I’d get a different one is if there was another HC you liked better. Because then you could sell your current one and most likely come out making some money.

 

Getting it PC'd and then cutting it essentially fucks the PC for the future. Ask me how I know...

 

#RandyRadicalFab

 

@geekhouse23 I vote Randy's assessment they are spot on.

 

That's why I call him #KeepItRealRandall

 

I'm gonna try and get my spindles gusseted next week. Rather than take the normal rattle can approach, I'm going to try something a bit different, as I want this to be very durable and not get rusty like the rest of my armor. I'm gonna do a brush on enamel primer and paint job in hopes it goes on nice and thick and I don't miss any spots. Will let it cure for 24 hours before reassembling.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Rust-Oleum...or-Paint-Actual-Net-Contents-32-fl-oz/3069751

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Rust-Oleum...or-Paint-Actual-Net-Contents-32-fl-oz/4459357

 

Hmmmm..I was going to drop mine off at the PC this weekend. Might hold off now.

 

I think I've been painting things all wrong. The sliders I welded on yesterday were already painted, and I woulda sworn they were PC'd based on how durable that paint felt. So that made me want to explore other avenues of painting. Depending how this holds up, I may try some industrial paint on the next thing I need painted.

 

Would be a good option for my bumper (potentially) when I will (likely) cut shit off.

 

They make a spray version of the paint too for the things that require nice aesthetics, like a bumper. I may paint my skids and sliders with the brush on paint too....hmmmm. Maybe I should buy a gallon instead of a quart.

 

Test first then full send haha It would be cheap enough for me test instead of dropping $100 on PC

 

Pretty much anything will be an improvement over how I currently rattle can it. My stuff isn't terrible, but the parts that don't get scraped could certainly be more durable than what they are now. I really need to remove my rear bumper and repaint it. Some of the inside parts need some love. I guess that'll be easier now with no swingout.

 

Planted the idea in the wife's head this past weekend about removing the swingout. She's for it. She likes that we can swing that workshop bonus room door open while still being able to have the truck parked in the garage and closed. I am looking forward to a test run this weekend.

 

After my skids fiasco I will never not pay to have something powder coated. In plain english, fuck that noise!

That being said, if I had to do it myself I would look real hard at the spray on bedliner paint from Harbor Freight. It goes on smooth and even and if it is as durable as the roll on it is nearly as strong as PC. When I was trying to adjust the front IFS skid I was beating on it with a block of wood/BFH on the edge and didn't make a mark. I'b realy curious to see how the diff diaper B has hold up. That is 4 coats of that stuff rolled on. Over 2 or 3 (I lost count) of self etching primer.

 

I feel like PC on heavy use items like skids slider etc is a waste.

My brother spent $400 to get his sliders blasted and PC'd. Our sliders looked exactly the same after a trip to the local ORV park. Depends on which part and how much abuse it sees.

 

Well, only one side is gonna get F'd up. That side I will spray bed liner paint. The rest though will look good for a while I would hope.

 

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+ Money on top? Swings aren't free.

Drill + Jigsaw with a metal blade ought to make short work of those light cutouts. I'd say plasma but they tend to leave jagged edges and slag. Don't know if anyone has a better idea.