NJ B.S. Thread

when i join the dd214 club im sending you nasty grams

 

I considered that early on before finding the kit. The axle assemblies I was finding were really expensive and I wasn’t certain it would work/compatible/same width. Way more work too. I had already regeared my third at that point too.

The worst part when doing the DMZ kit was cutting and grinding all the crap off my axle.
I would have had to set pinion angle again and welded on shock tabs for stock configuration rear shocks. All of that would have cost more money, taken a long time, been labor intensive and I could have ended up with a bad axle assembly.

The brake kit is a nice, neat, clean product with no real fuss. I was driving the truck the next day.

It’s kind of like when people say, “why spend all that money supercharging a 1GR? Just throw in an LS....” There’s never anything “just” about it.

The thing that seems crazy to me is when people add six piston big brake kits because “our front brakes suck,” but leave the drums

Bottom line is, we shouldn’t have to add disc brakes at all. My head almost exploded when I first looked at the 3rd Gen and saw drums. Awful.

 

Exactly. Jon is evil. Must all agree. Never speak of him again.

 

#smashingbouldersforjesus
@Wheelspinner @avw4x4 @TNT4X4

 

Yeaaaaaaaahhhhhh boiiiiiiiiiiiiiii

 

#badsanta sorry I can’t see the pictures over the sound of mandrews belts squealing

 

When in doubt.... always LS Swap

 

Was looking at it today pretty sure it’s the idler pulley seizing up.

 

So I got one of my ABS wires pinched in a zip tie while putting my truck back together.

When I started it up, I immediately had an ABS light.

The speedometer worked for precisely 5.3 miles. I know this because I set trip A to track mileage for the diff break in.

Then, no speedo, no odometer, P0500 code, and many lights.

I can clear the P0500 code and some of the lights go out. But the code just comes back. Never have a speedo.

So, from what I’ve seen, this could be caused by any of the wheel speed sensors. Any of the ABS wires, the gauge cluster, the ABS fuses under the hood, or the computer itself.

I’ve already changed the harness that I stretched.

Does anyone know how to begin to diagnose this without just swapping parts?

 

Jon might know but the west coast cock suckers ruined any chance of him enlightening you...

 

True. He’s on the misfits forum now. So I’m in contact lol

 

I do not. However, I have the OEM ABS sensor wires brand new if you are in need. Leftovers from frame swap.

 

Just googled it and found this- https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/p0500-code-vehicle-speed-sensor.434829/

I’m reading through it now.

 

Nice. The front end was apart for a while. Who knows? They could’ve both gotten stretched.

How much do you want for them?

 

Cool. I found that one too. His speedo never stopped working. I’m pretty sure, in the end it ended up being a bad gauge cluster output. Fixed by swapping the cluster.

My speedo does not work, so I figured that’s. Not the issue.

Maybe you will see something I missed.

 

Gotta dig them up - they’re somewhere in my shop.

Yours for a 6 pack my friend. They were free to me so I wouldn’t feel right taking anyone’s $.

 

That my friend is a deal. I suppose I could just swap them both out before trying to diagnose.

I mentioned above that I already changed one of them.

I should’ve mentioned that the one I got from Toyota Parts deal was shorter and had the wrong attachment brackets on it.

The plugs were the same though, so I plugged it in to see what would happen. It could be that too I guess.

 

That was the case with his, but other people mentioned their issues too.

Pretty sure this is the code my brother in law had too when he stretched an abs line. We checked continuity on it and found it was shorted.. spliced it and it’s been good since. Not sure if he had any symptoms besides CEL though.