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NJ B.S. Thread

Discussion in 'North East' started by JLink, Apr 24, 2013.

  1. Apr 24, 2019 at 6:32 PM
    JLink

    JLink [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Josh
    Ocean, NJ
    Lifted, Locked, Armored. Ready To Wheel.
    Soooo......

    I just swapped out my old Doug Thorley y pipe with a new one. (Old one had a hanger snap off)

    And I changed out my cat back system with a borla cat back system.

    I sprayed my o2 sensors with brake clean and wiped them off...

    Now I have a P0037 code.

    Since the truck is 9 years old, I’m thinking I might as well replace both o2 sensors.

    I’m pretty sure the Y pipe is the down stream sensors...

    I forgot to plug in one of the o2 sensors.. easy fix..
     
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2019
  2. Apr 24, 2019 at 7:41 PM
    6 gearT444E

    6 gearT444E Certified Electron Pusher

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    You have the autocraptic transmission right?

    The code can be caused by the fact that your ECM is getting speed input from the transmission output shaft speed sensor (SP2 signal) while it doesn't receive a signal from the wheel speed sensors (SP1 signal). Being that your speedometer is not working, I'm willing to be the cause of your P0500 issue is the lack of an SP1 signal to the ECM.

    The connections go from wheel sensors---->skid control ECU---->combination meter (gauge cluster)---->ECM.

    First check the speed into the gauge cluster. unplug cluster, turn the ignition switch on and have someone spin the wheels while you check voltage between connector C9 pin 6 and ground, should be intermittent pulse of DC as the wheel is turned. A simpson meter or o-scope would work best but a DVM will work in a pinch. If you are getting nothing, it's likely your skid control ECU or the wheel sensors.

    You can check that same output out of the skid control ECU to rule out any wire issues between the skid control ecu and instrument cluster at connector IA1 pin 36 (red wire with yellow stripe).

    For shits and grins you can also check the signal between the E6 and E7 ECM connectors as the wheel is turned slowly, check the SPD signal (connector E7 pin 8) ground signal E1 (connector E6 pin 1), should see voltage fluctuations. If your speedometer isn't working though it is likely you will have found the signal didn't make it to the gauge cluster first.
     
  3. Apr 24, 2019 at 8:39 PM
    6 gearT444E

    6 gearT444E Certified Electron Pusher

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    I will add that I know nothing about the black box aka skid control ECU. I'm sure it's a proprietary toyota circuit. Not sure how it develops the SP1 signal or if it can transmit the SP1 signal to the gauge cluster after 1,2, 3 failures of the speed sensors? I'm assuming it is taking the pulses of all 4 then taking an average of them and if it detects a failure of 1 it votes it out of the averaging circuit so that if you lose a speed sensor you don't lose your speedometer reading, but it's really just a SWAG at best.

    Worst case, if you determine your skid control ECU is bad, I think the easiest route to go would be to replace with a junkard tacoma one. If that doesn't work, you could go an alternate route and simplify the circuit and wire it like the manual transmission tacomas do; which is to read the speed using a VSS off the rear transfer case since you have swapped to the FJ case it would be pretty easy. Get new transfer case VSS and run the signal wires up to the drivers kick panel area and splice it into where the skid control ECU feeds into the gauge cluster, then you could also get rid of the silly VSC/ABS setup which sucks on these trucks anyway LOL
     
  4. Apr 25, 2019 at 3:46 AM
    HolyHandGrenade

    HolyHandGrenade NOOB

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    Damn Ant. Thank you for taking the time to write all of that.

    Now, maybe if I read it 15-20 more times, I’ll begin to understand it...

    I’m going to take Craig up in his offer for the ABS wires first. If that does nothing, I have this bookmarked.
     
    MY50cal, Clark27 and Arcticelf like this.
  5. Apr 25, 2019 at 4:02 AM
    diabetiktaco

    diabetiktaco Instalander

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    If you need any other parts, I've got a store right up the street from you in suffern. PM me and I'll have whatever waiting for you.
     
    MY50cal likes this.
  6. Apr 25, 2019 at 4:06 AM
    HolyHandGrenade

    HolyHandGrenade NOOB

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    Thank you Sir. I will take you up on that if need be :thumbsup:
     
    diabetiktaco[QUOTED] likes this.
  7. Apr 25, 2019 at 4:36 AM
    6 gearT444E

    6 gearT444E Certified Electron Pusher

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    No problem, that sounds good.start with the cheapest and easiest fix and work your way forward.
     
  8. Apr 25, 2019 at 4:38 AM
    HolyHandGrenade

    HolyHandGrenade NOOB

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    Yeah, I wouldn’t normally just start changing parts, but that seems the most likely since I had the front apart to put the RCVs in and I got one of the wires under a zip tie.

    After that, it’s diagnosis time.
     
    6 gearT444E[QUOTED] likes this.
  9. Apr 25, 2019 at 4:43 AM
    6 gearT444E

    6 gearT444E Certified Electron Pusher

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    These kinds of problems reinforces my desire to keep an older truck where things are all mechanical and diagnosis can be done with visual inspections and some common sense.

    The more electronics added make the common sense not so common.
     
    not_nick, Toy4me, steele-taco and 2 others like this.
  10. Apr 25, 2019 at 4:47 AM
    HolyHandGrenade

    HolyHandGrenade NOOB

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    I hear that. I have a picture of me standing inside the engine compartment of a 60 Ford somewhere. With the engine in it.

    Of course it was a BBC with fenderwell headers and no inner fenders. But still.
     
  11. Apr 25, 2019 at 4:49 AM
    fatfurious2

    fatfurious2 IG: great_white_taco

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    Want.to.see.
     
  12. Apr 25, 2019 at 5:10 AM
    HolyHandGrenade

    HolyHandGrenade NOOB

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    That would take some digging. That was before people took pictures with cell phones.

    Before most people HAD cell phones.
     
    pinochle and fatfurious2[QUOTED] like this.
  13. Apr 25, 2019 at 5:12 AM
    fatfurious2

    fatfurious2 IG: great_white_taco

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    1930? Does @Grand dude know where it is?
     
  14. Apr 25, 2019 at 5:29 AM
    HolyHandGrenade

    HolyHandGrenade NOOB

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    Depending on the day, Grand Dude May think it IS 1930










    Morning Dave :hattip:
     
  15. Apr 25, 2019 at 5:44 AM
    HomerTaco

    HomerTaco also HomerTaco Vendor

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    HomerTaco ...................................................................................................................................................... Core-Hurst short throw shifter & T-handle / Carbon Fiber Interior / custom console light / De-badged / leather interior / Heated Front seats / Red Line Hood Struts / Painted speaker grills /one-off TRD Satoshi Grill with 12-15 front-end swap/ Pioneer AVIC-X920BT HU / Scangauge II / Black LED Tails / Dash Mount for iPad mini / Safari Snorkel / Auto-pilot mode / Leer 100XQ Cap / 4x Innovations sliders / Rear Diff Breather Mod / front windows tinted to 35% / Brute Force Fab Hybrid Front Bumper / BAMF Rear Diff Skid / Budbuilt Skids / CBI Trail Master 2.0 rear hybrid bumper / Fox rr coils/ TC UCA's/ TC spindle gussets/ TC Cam Tab gussets / Dakar leafs / Defined Engineering shackles / All pro U bolt flip / Timbren Rear Bumpstops / BAMF LCA skids / Exhaust re-route / Fog Light anytime Mod / LowRange Off Road extended rear brake lines / ATO Shackle Flip / sectioned Bushwhacker flares / re-geared to 4.56 / ARB Front & Rear Locking Diff / ARB CKMA12 compressor / PrInSu full rack system / 1" body lift / Inchworm 4.7 crawlbox / twin stick FJ t-case / Davez off-road triple-stick kit/
    Unless you have a degree in electrical engineering, then you can make sense of some of the shit. :p
     
  16. Apr 25, 2019 at 6:09 AM
    diabetiktaco

    diabetiktaco Instalander

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    That's where my anxiety comes from. I've installed and fixed 99% of everything myself on this truck. I remember when I installed a boost gauge on my GTI years ago and the dash lit up just from that.
     
  17. Apr 25, 2019 at 6:20 AM
    10ptXtreme

    10ptXtreme Well-Known Member

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    Hey guys - I know this isn't Tacoma related but I figure you guys can point me in the right direction. I have a 2010 Hyundai Accent GS and have just noticed that the clutch is starting to slip; it has almost 96k miles on it so it's due. I've got rough quotes from 3 places, Hyundai dealership ($1500-1800), AAMCO ($1000-1100), and a local place GT Automotive ($900). Not sure if these prices are good or not, and whether or not they will do a good job. I am curious if this can be done cheaper. Are any of you guys capable of changing a clutch? Or, would any of you be able to recommend a reputable shop who can do it?

    David
     
    fatfurious2 likes this.
  18. Apr 25, 2019 at 6:31 AM
    diabetiktaco

    diabetiktaco Instalander

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    If I was going to go anywhere it would be In Gear transmission and differential in Manasquan.
     
  19. Apr 25, 2019 at 6:42 AM
    pinochle

    pinochle GC8 Fanatic

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    NFab Nerf Steps, Bakflip MX4, Profile 5500K HIDs, Kicker Tweeters, Toyota Bed Mat, XPEL Ultimate Paint Protection, Borla S-Type Catback Exhaust, ME-SO Customs Gasshole, ME-SO Customs Total Tails Stage 1, ME-SO Customs Ultimate LED Turn Signals V4, HELLA Supertones, OVTuned 2.0, 2LO Mod, 16x8 0mm Enkei RPT1 Wheels in Titanium Gold, Diode Dynamics SS3 Pro Foglights, K&N Cabin Air Filter, HPS Intake Hose, Amsoil Gear Lubes in 6MT, front and rear differentials, XPEL Prime XR Plus Tint, TRD Engine Air Filter, Pioneer Head Unit, 275/75R16 Falken Wildpeak A/T3W Tires, RallyArmor UR Flaps
    STUPID VW!
     
  20. Apr 25, 2019 at 6:54 AM
    diabetiktaco

    diabetiktaco Instalander

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    It was a lot of fun at the time. The dude I sold it to called me the next day and told me the ABS module was fried and dealer wanted $2500 to fix it.

    601424_10151468471988544_171274484_n.jpg
     

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