NJ B.S. Thread

No H told him to check his grounds. He did the battery relocate when he did the tubbing so there is the possibility of some wonky stuff going on.

 

Tim took Jon’s advice. Tim can not find any problems with the grounds. But Tim hates wiring and could certainly be missing something.

 

Best thing to do, especially if you moved the battery would be to do a few ductor tests between the key connections you moved or disturbed.

 

Did you run a ground wire from the battery to the original ground point after relocating?

Lots of guys have issues if they ground to the frame near the battery’s new location and need to add supplementary ground points to work the bugs out. I recall one problem was solved by adding one at the transfer case for example. Can’t remember the threads I found unfortunately.

 

circulating ground current is a real thing. It's best to ground at only one point, and use that as a reference. Grounding the battery negative to the frame and then using the frame to ground other accessories is the poor man's way of wiring, that's why all the car companies do it lol. If you're wiring any extra accessories, it's always best to run the wire back to a dedicated ground bus that is directly connected to the negative terminal of the battery.

 

I’m referring to the factory systems becoming unhappy and extra/higher gauge jumpers at strategic points being added to smooth out current issues with the ground located toward the rear of the frame. Not sure where he grounded it though.

The accounts I read required so much testing and investigation to figure out I just ran a ground the full length of the truck to the original ground point along side the hot and avoided those issues all together. The cost of the extra 4/0 welding cable was worth avoiding the potential headaches.

 

This is what I did too. Also used 4/0. I also ran a ground from the battery down to the frame. I only used 4 gauge there though so it would fit through the same hole.

Per Jon’s instructions, I did a voltage test at the battery and the connections up front. Same voltage both places.

 

Where are you located ? Interested

 

I'm in the Northeast part of CT

 

Even then it's a shit-show.

 

Make sure the 4/0 goes all the way to the block. I've read about a couple fucky electrical problems that stemmed from poor ground connection during starting.

 

The 4/0 is connected to the factory wiring where the battery used to be. So I didn’t change anything other than putting the battery in the cab and making those connections

 

I have four Hankook Dynapro HT RH12 - 245/75 R16. Removed aprox. 17k miles off my SR. One tire has a plug from a nail, but held air fine.
pics: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/long-island-ny-tacos.101181/page-176#post-19956925

 

Do you have a username for Jo n? Seems to be a ghost that may have a front bumper for sale.

 

Aha, so don't try to associate with anyone that hangs with HHG lol. She is the one that reached out, so that makes sense now. Well hopefully they want to sell a bumper really cheap. I don't particularly care for the aesthetics, but if the price is right it is better than stock plastic.

 

I think he got banned for selling parts for retail prices and never helping locals out AND he really didn’t know what he was talking about.

 

Its all bullshit if you ask me

 

Sounds like a terrible guy. I am guessing he was in a similar situation to stair god.

 

No no no Jerry. That would make one (or two) a hero who would be beyond reproach.