The 5.29 Mega Thread!!

Sheesh. Running a lot of armor or something? I'm getting an uncorrected 17.6, or about 18.6mpgs on the highway and about 17 city now even on 33s and armor. We must be finally done with winter gas, because my mpgs always drop 2mpg or so because of the winter blend.

 

It's because of the aerodynamic drag from my rack.

 

So is the MPG calculation done in the dash display or ECU? Does the calibrator ONLY modify the speed display on the dash and nothing else (MPG, odometer, etc).
I wish the calibrator went between the ABS sensor and the ECU....

 

Yep that'll do it. Ultimately I decided against a rack like that because I don't go wheeling often enough to justify one. Looks great though; Dissent's?

 

Thanks, yeah Dissent makes quality stuff, love mine.

Sucks that a rack like this will kill MPG and almost eliminate overdrive gears. Fortunately my daily drive to work and back is about 2 minutes total on the highway.

 

I don’t know for sure, but this would make sense.

 

That's a good question. I can check my tank at my next fill-up and see what my calculated MPG is. I think it does everything on the dash though -- if it modifies variable 'x' to be '(x*0.45364)', the dash doesn't know any better and displays the answer determined by the formula with the modified variable.

I don't know if there would be any benefit to having the calibrator between the ABS (lets just say wheel/road) and the ECU. The truck would still think the same as ECU changes are presumably RPM driven.

 

So if you change out the dash instruments, does the odometer reading go to 0? Or does the ECU send it to the dash, the calibrator converts, then sends it back to the ECU for memory storage?

It's just weird to me that it's not all handled at the ECU.

 

I guess I am not sure. I suspect that the dash cluster is dumb and just displays what it is told. My suspicion is that the ECU sends the data, then it's displayed on the dash after being modified by the calibrator. Any data that is stored in the ECU has to be translated before it's displayed, so I would suspect it is stored unmodified.

I have no idea though. Just wild speculation.

 

FYI, ECGS just let me know what even though the rear I ordered comes REM polished, they still want the same break in as if it was non-polished.

 

About to order 5.29s. Truck is an AT longbed with 315/75r16 KM3s, front and rear steel bumpers, and OVTune 1.05. Just read through the whole thread.

-Yes or no to putting heavy miles on the truck in 4x4 to break in the front?

-Anyone add a front e-locker during regear? If so, which one?

-Is OVTune causing a govern at ~85mph or not? Was that a 1.04 problem or something?

-Why is there seemingly no definite answer for gear oil type?

-I keep reading that the oil change on the front is a bitch. I haven’t looked at the diff yet. What sucks about it? Is it still a bitch using a hose setup?

 

Let’s see I added front ARB locker. I just rack up miles on front diff when I go off road. I only put 40 miles so far. I will be adding more miles to front diff in Moab this coming weekend. Front diff is harder to fill because of the spot it’s in. You will need a pump to pump oil in. Rear was easy. I changed at 500 miles. You can just fill it from the bottle. I’m using Nitro Gear oil. It’s what Nitro recommended but I’m sure any other brand will do. As far as OVTune I haven’t installed mine yet. Oh and I’m on 34’s with steel front/rear bumpers, sliders and skids. The truck doesn’t feel heavy anymore after going 5.29.

 

If it makes you feel better, sure. If you Google around enough you'll find people who don't do a break in at all, front or rear and have no issues. How many folks do you think will even offroad their truck 500 miles in a year or even a couple? I just changed my front when I changed the rear for the second time at 15k.

Fuck ARB, I'll never get an ARB locker again. My rear leaks even after replacing the bonded seal. Nothing like having gear oil piss out of your diff vent every time you turn on your locker. 3 or 4 of my routine wheeling buddies have leaking issues with theirs too. My new truck will have harrop elockers in it.

IIRC ECGS used to ship their diffs with a note that said use only Lucas Dino 85-140w, anything else and they might void the warranty, though that was a couple years ago and might have loosened up the warranty threat, but I'm pretty certain they still recommend Lucas 85-140w Dino unequivocally. I think I saw a post by ECGS on here saying that royal purple was the absolute worst gear oil they've seen used, said they were getting back relatively new gear sets that looked like complete shit.

If you want an easy & cheap way to fill the front diff get some clear rubber/tygon tubing with an OD to match the size of the diff fill hole, run the tubing from the fill hole up (push the tubing in a couple inches and it should hold in place) and out of the wheel well, stick a funnel onto the tubing and secure the funnel as high as convenient and fill it that way. I've seen some folks use drill operated pumps and it looks easy too, just have to order one from Amazon.

 

@tetten has it right. Lucas 85-140w non synthetic for break in. I am undecided if I will continue with the heavier oil. While it does provide a little more protection the 8.75 is quite a bit bigger than the 8” diffs and may not be necessary.

I haven’t seen a clear answer for the front. It’s always turning but I don’t know how loading effects break in. I’ve been running 4 high on straight sections of road to satisfy my personal psychosis.

@thefatkid is there a best practice for the front?

Harrop for me too. Ch4x4 switch to keep it as OEM as I could.

 

What E locker did you end up going with? A11110?

 

Yes believe so. Pretty sure 5.29’s are only available in the thick cut ring gears.

 

This is what I do. It still sucks but the best way to actually fill it up without having to buy a gucci pump.

 

My biggest concern is that OVtune is actually causing the ~85 govern. I’ve talked to a lot of people who have 5.29s and have no issues with hitting governor, only @OVTune has mentioned it which makes me think it’s actually caused by the tune. Really wish he would clarify that it is his tune that governs with the gears, and fix it still think I’m going 5.29 even if that means ditching @OVTune but hoping he will come up with a specific tune for these ASAP.

 

I dig this e-locker setup, the switch especially.

Thanks for the answers, everyone.

 

I have a similar set up as yours but I’m also running with roof rack and habitat. I figured I won’t be getting into positions in which I would need the front locker. Definitely not going to rock crawl. I’m running a winch, figured I could always get myself out without needing front locker.