Premium Audio Upgrade for less than $250

Not sure if this will help, but you may be able to compare the two on crutchfield and see side by side specs

 

It’s nearly the same speaker, just the newer year model. Will definitely still fit!

 

Thanks! I will be ordering them soon!

 

I just grabbed the last set of these speakers on sale at a local Best Buy, and also the Metra adapters and harnesses. The adapter with the need for angling screws doesn’t seem like something I want to mess with..will the ********* heavy duty mounting adapters work in place of the metras? Also, as mentioned above, there’s a newer model of these speakers? Is there any benefit to choosing the older model over the newer one, other than cost? Thanks..

 

I didn’t have to angle the screws with my JL speakers, but even so it doesn’t matter so long as it tightens all the way and the speaker doesn’t move.

 

Installed the front 6x9s OP listed. Picked them up from Best Buy (last set) for $59. I also grabbed the ballistic hollowpoint sound dampener they had which was actually quite expensive. After installing something like 3 square feet per door and installing the speakers, I can honestly say that the sound is better. Sound is clear at all volume levels and bass is what you’d expect from kicker speakers. These speakers are on the low end of the spectrum but they sound plenty good at any volume levels with the windows rolled up, which is how I like to ride. I don’t have any experience with high end equipment some have mentioned. For me, these speakers are a solid upgrade. Anyone doing this won’t be disappointed for the cost. Oh..it took me all day to get the front two doors done!

 

I just did the same, picked up the last set of 6x9 CS's and the corresponding rear speakers from best buy with the adapters etc... what do you say was the most time consuming part of the install? Trying to see if I can pull off all 4 doors in a couple hours.

 

The hardest part for me was applying the sound dampening, which I still think I will re-do or at least add to it. On the driver door, I applied it al around the speaker hole in the door and I think I need to roll it to flatten it a little as I believe it’s causing the door panel to bulge ever so slightly. I could be imagining this, but I’m going to revisit it for sure. Removing the door is very easy, take your time and use the clip removal tools and all should work out well. I also did not remove the vapor barrier or little felt sound damper at all. I didn’t want to change anything, just add to it. I don’t think that dampening the entire door like most are doing is entirely necessary for the output of the Kicker CS speakers. Maybe others can chime in with their thoughts on this matter. I’ll be doing the back doors today when the adapters arrive. Best of luck to you and let me know if there’s anything that you need or have a question about as you’re doing it.

 

Thank you for the input! I'm skipping the dampening for now to see how it turns out so hopefully it goes smooth. I also picked up a trim removal kit the other day so I should be good to go. My only concern was messing up the locking mechanism some how. Anyway I think i'm going to spend tonight doing more research and charging up my drill (I heard some drilling on the bracket adapter is required). I'll try to tackle all 4 doors tomorrow afternoon. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

For the locking mechanism, just make sure that you put the white piece on top and green on bottom. Also, once you get to it, you’ll see exactly how the little cable with the ball on the end is attached and how the white and green clips are pressed into the door panel. As long as you put it back just how it is, which is very very easy, you won’t have any issue. I too was concerned about this after reading through 85 pages of this thread but I had no issues whatsoever. Take a picture of it and you’ll be good to do. The little white and green clips will clip back into place with an audible snap. If you press it in and hear it snap back into place, you’re solid. And cool I look forward to hearing how much you love the speakers.

 

Oh and the cheap Metra brackets will work. I saw a photo of how someone else had it and that’s how I did it. Jus let sit in a chair with the bracket between your legs and let the speaker rest in it/on it and line the holes up until you can just let each screw (the ones provided with the speakers) sit in the holes. It will look off and they won’t sit perfectly but you can screw each one a few turns until they catch and then tighten it all down. Personally, I don’t like the adapters and would prefer something more robust like the ********* brackets but I think the cheap ones will hold up. Time will tell..

 

Sounds good, i'm going to take some pics while taking it apart. Yeah I'm excited to get some clarity in this system.

Yeah I went with the ones Bestbuy provides (I think it's the Metra). My only concern is they recommended & gave me the rear bracket for GM/Chrysler cars... odd but it looks identical to the one Crutchfield gives you. Hoping I don't run into any issues there. They do look cheap, i'm afraid going off road on some jarring roads may cause issues down the line.

 

They did the same to me. Those are wrong. You need the

$17 82-8148 6" to 6-3/4" Speaker Adapter for Select Toyota/Lexus/Scion 1998-Up Vehicles, Black

82-8148 brackets for the rear doors. That’s why I had to wait until today for the rear doors..Best Buy got me good. I’m taking those back today!

 

Well that's just fantastic lol. Thanks for the heads up, looks like they are out of stock on those everywhere near me. I'll have to order them and do what you did.

 

I submitted a change to our FitGuide at Best Buy so now the correct model will show for future buyers! Thanks for discussing it!

 

It took me about three hours total to do front and rear doors speakers and sound deadening. The time suck is the deadening; you could easily spend hours trying to cover every square inch but thankfully it’s not necessary. I ended up with roughly 30-35% coverage on the inner and outer door skins and am happy with the sound improvement. Without adding the deadening I probably could have done the speakers themselves in an hour.

 

Awesome! Thank you for fixing it. Thankfully I had done in store pickup and hadn't gone in yet so I was able to cancel just that one adapter.

 

All depends on the quality of the RCA’s, and the power draw of the amp. I have no problem doing Kicker or Stinger RCA cables right next to the power wire. But if someone brings me garbage Boss or Rockville cables, they’re going down separate sides. Also, if the amp is 1200+ watts, I’m going down separate sides even with good cables. Might not be needed, but not worth pulling them and re-running them if there is noise.

 

Anyone getting door rattled from the passenger side front door? My cs 6x9 are amped with an alpine power pack and I also have a sub, but I’m getting a fairly gnarly rattle from the front passenger door. I’m thinking of adding some foam insulation weather stripping between the speaker and the door opening in hopes to lessen the vibrations, but does anyone else have any tips? Hopefully it’ll help others as well.