Help with bleeding brakes

Just installed my new Camburg lift spindles today along with the Camburg extended brake lines. I went to bleed the brakes after the install and I can't get the air out of the lines. I've already pumped almost a whole bottle of DOT 3 fluid through them and nothing. Brake pedal is still spungy. What do I do? Pump more fluid through them? Thanks

Edit: Update

 

Are you sure the fittings are tight on the new brake lines? Sounds like air is getting into the system somehow.

 

Once air is in there you need to bleed the whole system. Start with the back brakes working from the furthest wheel away from the master cylinder then work your way to the front to the closest. Having someone pump the brakes to build pressure then hold them as you open bleeder valve and not to release till the valve is closed. Keep doing it a few times. The back are the hardest to get the air out so make sure to do them more then the fronts. Hope this helps.

 

Why would I have to do the rear. Isn't that a seperate circuit or something?

I wasn't closing the valve when the pedal was released but I didn't see air going back in the line. It did seem to be pump out the fluid quickly. Do you have to close the valve before every release?

 

Back brakes still need to be bled, it helped me outt to actually have the truck running as opposed to have it off.

 

Okay, if they all need to be bled than how many pumps do I need to do to each corner? What would you consider satisfactory?

 

Just to give my opinion, When bleeding brakes with a partner I prefer to do it this way:
I fill the master with the proper fluid, get some one to pump the brakes ( start farthest from the master RR,LR,RF,LF depending on the set up it may be different) I then yell "pump it up" and the guy inside pumps the brakes 3 or 4 times slow and on the last pump holds the pedal down firmly. At that point they yell "holding" and then I loosen the bleeder to let brake fluid out, just before the fluid stops I shut the bleeder.
At that point it repeats until I get 3 or 4 good squirts of fluid showing no air. Then I move on to the next wheel until they are all bled. (After each wheel top up the master. Also note brake fluid is corrosive to paint, but as it is hygroscopic (absorbs water) it washes away with a garden hose easily.
Remember to only use brand new clean brake fluid of the same type as some don't mix. As stated above brake fluid absorbs water (water causes interesting problems) use only brake fluid thats new-with in six months old and only if its had the cap on tight the whole time its been stored.

 

Is it a bad thing to re-use any of the old fluid that gets pumped out? I know its sounds stupid but I just bled the brakes not that long ago and the fluid coming out looks brand new. Seems like a waste but maybe that's just how it goes.

 

Yup, bad idea. Brake fluid is cheap man, and think about it - it has a ton to do with stopping or smashing 30k worth of truck.
Just buy more

 

Alright I'll just buy some more fluid. On a positive note these spindles look freakin bad A$$. I love the fact that I have droop travel again. No more pogo stick feeling either!

 

Ho was the install? Any problems? I got some and was thinking of doing it myself.

 

It's definitely a project you can do yourself but it will take the better part of a day to complete. Plus you will want an extra person to give you a hand. You don't need an extra person but it sure helps. The hardest part for me was removing the brake rotor from the hub and than also trimming the caliper to fit on the passenger side. I beat on the rotors forever and had no luck braking them loose. However, there are two empty screw holes that you can use to pop the rotors off. That required a trip to ace hardware to get the little metric screws needed. Other than those issues it was a relatively simple, follow the directions, type procedure. Use the spindle install guide here on the forums to guide you. And don't forget to set your toe-in roughly with a tape measure before you head to the alignment shop. i had mad toe-in after the install.

 

Sweet. Thanks for the heads up. I hear it's a beast. I'm worried about the brake lines too because I've never done that before.

 

Oh heads up on changing the brake lines. When you remove the old lines, the nut/piece that you unscrew from the old lines, is mostly frozen in place and the hex is easily rounded off with a cresent wrench. Sometimes it comes off and sometimes you round it off the first try. If it comes down to it, I used two sets of vice grips in the most careful manner I could. When those nuts decide to be frozen in place they are very difficult to get out without destroying the nut. I think the metal is soft like aluminum or something. Best of luck to you on that.

 

spindles= steering knuckles?

 

I don't know if you have vsc or not, so here's instructions for both systems.

http://www.customtacos.com/tech/fil...6toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/04200210.pdf

http://www.customtacos.com/tech/fil...6toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/04200310.pdf

 

The verticle piece which connects to your upper control arm ball joint and your lower control arm ball joint. Holds the whole wheel hub assembly.

 

I do not have vsc. Thanks for links. I will check those out and pick up some more brake fluid today.

 

Thanks! I can't wait to get these puppies on. They are beefier than I imagined?

 

wow....

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/maintenance/4213448