The NorthStar AGM Battery + Voltage Booster Upgrade

That's what I was thinkin'. You need a fuse.

 

This is true and I’m well aware. However, no circuit protection is needed. It’s just a sensing wire that doesn’t carry any real current. The only reason that Toyota put in a 7.5v fuse is that they were cheap and easy. Low profile mini fuses smaller than 7.5v are pretty much impossible to find

 

Nah, see my reply above

 

What do you think about this?
https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/163630367936

 

True, it is a sensor wire and shouldn’t see much of any load. Toyota didn’t cheap out though with using a fuse, all connections to the battery should always be fused, even if unlikely to occur a short.

I did see that one, they give a voltage boost range but it is hard to say how accurate that is. It does look shall we say not very professionally mass produced. Doesn’t mean it isn’t effective though. It does maintain the fuse though.

 

I’m liking this data logging app. I’ve reset my booster to zero to establish a baseline and will compare my multimeter readings to the battery monitor readings for determining accuracy. But the data is pretty cool. This is a cold alternator reading, so not very useful but just wanted to share initial readings.

 

No, I meant they cheaped out by using an oversized fuse. And technically the diode does provide some circuit protection but only against reverse current flow. For what it’s worth this is used in an OEM application by GM.


Yes the same company that built the fiery death traps

 

So no way to spoof the alternator on 2017+ tacomas?

 

Going to need to do it via ECU tuning. No simple plug and play solution that I am aware of without having an Alternator S circuit to spoof the regulator.

 

I data logged a few drives today. I reset the voltage adjuster to +0.0v for a baseline. Peak voltage was measured at 14.09 with voltage steadily dropping down afterward. Average settled running value seemed to be about 13.55v.



I checked the voltage monitor for accuracy with my multimeter, it specs to be within 0.03v.



Confirmed it meets spec, it reads 0.03v low. In the big picture that is a very small delta but good to know.

I reset the voltage adjuster to +0.6v for tomorrow and will check the log from my commute to dial in voltage performance.

 

And here is my adjusted +0.6v today.



Both morning and evening startups peaked at 14.69v and quickly fell off, seems to average settling around 14.16v. Which is pretty on spec for +0.6v vs the baseline.

I’m liking this method of voltage measuring far more than measuring with a multi-meter. Based on this data I can see that setting to 0.8v as the static data seemed to imply would be best, will cause a few minutes of exceeding the 14.8v max of the battery after startup.

 

I sent Northstar my before and after +0.6v voltage comparison graphs (above), they confirmed the adjusted voltage looks ideal and requires no further adjustment. Based on that the 0.5v adjuster would work as well, just 0.1v less.

I’ll update the original post with this data and point out the possible errors of just using a multimeter, which only gives you a single voltage data point in time. I’ll also add the 24F AGMs to the comparison chart as well.

 

Update the OP accordingly. Removed the misleading multi-meter testing and explained why the voltage monitor tests were more accurate.

 

I've been running the 24F for 2 1/2 years now. Great battery and a direct replacement for the OEM. No tray issues to speak of.

 

Are we sure this even works on a 2016? I just went and looked for the Alt-S fuse and it is no where to be found. My fuse box looks like the one posted above from a 2017.

 

That would make more sense. They list it as available for a 2016 but I’m not sure if anyone has checked a 2016 fuse box for the Alt-S fuse. Without the Alt-S it won’t work.

 

Yeah, she's MIA. Which makes sense. I was really scratching my head after reading it wouldn't work on the 2017+ so I had to go check for myself. I'm hoping we can eventually figure something out for the 3rd gen.

 

I hope so...
Has anyone looked into Techstream to see if it's possible to modify that value from there?

 

According to the wiring diagram for the 2016 charging system, the sense line is fed straight to the ECU. Putting a diode in the line to drop the voltage should work to kick up the charging voltage.



The (*3) connections are the 2GR, and the (*4) connections are the 2TR.

 

So in theory, for a plug and play option, one would just need a bit of wire, an appropriate diode, and a male and female connector for the line plug on the alternator?