What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

I cant find the part numbers for the whiteline bushings. I threw my bag away. Anybody have them handy?

 

@Speedytech7 I looked up the noid light. Do you still believe it can be the fuel injector? when the trucks running it smells like it's running rich.

 

https://whitelineperformance.com/products/w53377a-bushing-kit

These are them. Correct me if i am wrong

@FirstTimeFirstGen

 

Hmm.. that usually means there's fuel but no ignition. Did you happen to have done a timing belt recently or maybe not recent enough? If it jumped teeth this can happen. Another thought, you checked spark on a different spark plug. But how do you know the plug isn't the problem?

 

I replaced the spark plug today with a brand new one from toyota. it's been a couple of years since I done the timing belt. I replaced it when I put the motor in.

 

Then I might ignore the smell for a bit and still take the noid light and see if you're getting injection pulse signal. I've had an injector partially fail too, I could make it pulse but the computer was too fast for it. Did you by chance number you injectors and know whether or not you put them back the same? If not then that theory is unlikely as there's 5 in 6 chance that misfire would have moved to another cyl.

 

Yeah that's exactly what I'm dealing with...thanks for the link! I'll do some reading up on it tomorrow before tearing into it this weekend

 

Looks like a very good cleaning, no evidence of porting work done

 

I did not put them back in the same way as I pulled them out. They where all mixed up when they came back from witch hunter. witch hunter tested them and said they where pulsing good. I'll look into a noid kit. I started with a p0300 (random misfire) before getting the injectors cleaned and rebuilt. But now I have a p0304. When I installed the injectors I did lube the o rings with fuel and made sure they where still able to move to make sure the o-rings seated correctly. Haven't seen any leaks yet from when I installed them.

 

Pardon if you've already mentioned this, but when was the last time spark wires were done. I've seen old ones intermittently leak spark out of their jacket to ground

 

No, that's not what those settings mean. Those settings are about additional caster added by the UCA over a stock UCA. At the default setting of "D" an SPC UCA will add 2.0 degrees of caster over stock - as do I think most aftermarket UCAs. With the SPCs, you can adjust that 2.0 degrees in either direction, taking you to either 4.0 degrees more than stock or back to stock. I took mine back to stock - or at least what SPC says is back to stock.

That's why the diagram says "Total Arm + Ball Joint Caster Change" - it's change from stock.

Shout if you have questions. Grease the upper joint while you're in there.

 

It’s all good.
Wires are brand new OEM from camelback. Coil packs are brand new from camelback too.
I also replaced the ignition module. But I got that from a salvage yard. To expensive to by new from Toyota

 

Ordered. I think whiteline is saying they dont make them for us because all they have listed on the fitment guide for these is 4runners lol. They're completely missing the pportunity for the Tacoma market because someone didnt do their homework.

 

Soaked it in Berryman Chem-Dip. NAPA has a similar product. Then I used brushes from the 6 PC Detail Brush Set at Harbor Freight to scrub out the carbon. It was scrub and soak, rinse and repeat until the carbon had been removed. Used one of the wire brushes from the HF set and some fine metal sandpaper to polish the gasket mating surfaces. After all the carbon has been removed, then I soak and wash it with some Dawn dish soap to remove any remaining grit, grease or dirt.

Correct. Thanks Speedy.

 

Not positive, but it may depend on whether you have some of the additional features for the lights, like staying on for a period after you lock the door, coming on when you unlock (with key fob), etc. My '04 SR5 DC definitely required some resistance on the dome. It only took one resistor for all three of the dome/map bulbs.

 

Right, but at stock with a lift your overall castor is less than 1° usually. Your lca can only move so far forward and by moving the location of the upper ball joint forward you are losing castor. Dropping the upper bj back you gain castor but lose firewall clearance.

 

thus why I am enjoying my Solo LCAs. +2º castor...no rubbing. No maxed out cams.

 

True. I'm at only a bit over 1° right now. On the lower end of what folks seem to like, but I'm used to it and it seems fine to me. And, it's right in the middle of the spec range for my truck so...

 

yeah I've been at 0 for year. Its whatever.

 

For reference this is what I’m working with right now that works. I’m on 33” with a 2-2.5”? lift. Still debating when I’m going to trim my fenders.