What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Since my lower OEM cams are supposedly 'maxed out' according to the alignment shop, and from what I've read on here since yesterday, it sounds like I need to adjust the SPCs to the F or G setting to gain more clearance behind the wheel rather than what I was originally going to do ( A or B setting), since it sounds like the A or B setting will actually move the wheel closer to the firewall which is the opposite of what I want.

I haven't had a chance yet to read @turbodb 's write up but I will before I do anything this weekend

Since I reinstalled the fender liners the rubbing is more pronounced now when I turn going over bumps, not the end of the world to rub the liners but if I can fix it via alignment rather than trying to cut them and make them look like crap (again), that'd be ideal.

 

See but one thing which is bothering my OCD (LOL) @turbodb, note the highlight I made on step 10 of SPC's install sheet - they are saying that a D setting, should return it (caster) back to factory specs on a 2-3" lift. Which is why I left it at D and then took it in for the tech to mess with the cams.



Again, this is all a shot in the dark - I'm no alignment tech and really have no clue. What I do want and I'd be thrilled if someone could figure it out - what is the best ball joint setting to ensure the most clearance away from the back of the wheel well(?).

Anyway, just more confusion for the pot I guess...

 

Yeah I'm at the 'D' setting right now but it ain't working for me, I guess I really won't know for sure until I adjust them and see what it's like. Won't be hard to go back to the D setting if I have to I guess

 

New coil pack acquired, idle is almost mostly smooth now. I suppose I'll replace the other three too - but not now. Dealer wanted ~$150, Autozone $89.00 - Rockauto $53. For the same part. Madness.

 

I am guessing that your LCA cam bolts are what is limiting your ability to to get full caster from the LCAs. When they tell you they are maxed out, what that really means is they can't get any more out of them. You might try taking the cam assemblies apart to see if they are frozen.

Have you replaced your LCA bushings?

 

More confusion, I have my liners intact and still have yet to do the pinch and form the liners with the heat gun - no rubbing at all on speed bumps.

I only have rub on the frame if I'm at full lock which is expected.

I do know for a fact I'll hit the liner at the weld if I have any compression, so the pinch weld and liner are definitely on the short list of priority items.

 

I have not, it's all still original but 'only' 80k miles on them/the truck. Although those 80k miles have seen a fair bit of action

 

ooooohhhh good one. I asked the tech if he had any issues with my cams and he said everything was fine, no sticking or hanging up - LCA bushings looked fine. Perhaps yours are in worse shape Ryan.

 

I think this is where our differences in wheels comes into play, I don't know my BS off the top of my head but I do know that it can't be ideal for these trucks because I had pinch weld rubbing issues even with the stock size 31" KO2s, before any suspension mods

 

Post pics of your cams. It is easy to tell if they're actually maxed or they're frozen.

 

I'd just dump those wheels and throw some stock SR5 stars or whatever they're called until you can decide on a wheel to go with. At least you'll be back to 4.5.

 

Of course I just put my skid back on last night, can't get a pic of the cams as the Budbilt covers them...I'll grab some next time I have it off though. I'm going to try and get another alignment next week and I usually take it off before I drop off the truck.

 

Maybe its time to make the drive and take it to SPC's certified installer/alignment shop in your area

Accurate Alignment
971 N. Batavia St.
Orange, CA 92867
714-538-1916

 

Here is my alignment sheet. This is with new cam assemblies and whiteline bushings. I do not have the SPC uppers tho, I have the Camburg unibal arms. No rubbing on pinch weld/mud flap area at all under full flex. 285/75-16s on 8" wheels with 4.0" of backspacing. About 2.5" of lift.

 

oooh yeah I forgot about that, they aren't too far from me

 

Just checked mine and both sides are at D.
If you wanted to move the wheel away from the cab i would recommend to “try” negative caster (G) as it would push the ubj away from the cab.

 

If you want the most clearance from the firewall you want the ball joint as far forward as possible. Your castor will be very negative though.


D should be just fine for just about every situation. Hammer your firewall to clear your tires. Using the uca to help clear isn't the best way to go about it.


Think of it like this, draw a vertical line, this represents your spindle. Now draw a circle in the middle of the line, this represents your tire. The bottom of the line is you lowered ball joint and the top is your upper. Now imagine moving the line only by the upper point. It pivots around the lower. Think of how the circle will move with that line.

 

Here is a diagram of what I believe you are describing.

 

DO IT

Good point and good example - thx!

 

Thanks for the info guys...I guess I'll try heat molding my liners and hammering the firewall back some more and see where that puts me. Also gotta check and see if my lower cams are frozen, sounds like they might be.