TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

It had been mentioned here a long time ago that they are aluminum, but that could of been incorrect info

 

I do believe the red urd pulleys are aluminum, while the black “stealth” ones are steel.

 

The red ones are definitely aluminum and the oem
Is definitely steel. I’d imagine the stealth is aluminum as well, don’t see much of a reason to switch to a different material if you are urd

 

It's a built in limitation of the PCM. As the same sensor would be able to hook up to an AFR gauge like the AEM and could read well past 9.0:1 AFR.

Does it work, yes, is it right? No. The OE length belt of 70.5" is capable of stretching up to .75" potentially even 1" from it's original size. The belt needs to stay taught in order to maintain proper boost levels based on the pulley size and also proper tensioner static and dynamic height. If the belt stretches too much the tensioner will strike the stopper and not only do you run risk of it the tensioner assembly breaking, but you also are outside of proper tension ranges to maintain correct boost levels. This is a little more difficult to achieve when running the HD Roush aluminum, or any billet style tensioner which is thicker in conjunction with the clutches fan assembly, as too high a resting static and dynamic height can and will strike the fins.

Rule of thumb is you want about 70% tensioner engagement from it's natural resting stop with the OE belt, 50% with the Fleetrunner green HD belts, and 30% with the Kevlar RPM series belts.

The game has changed, and URD is no longer a fully reliable source of proper information. Take what they say with a grain of salt but don't take it as gospel.

They are aluminum. The OE is a steel pulley, which is why it barely warps on removal.

 

what application are you using? is this the coveted HP tuner people keep raving about?

 

You gotta get one.

 

My stealth pulley is stamped 3.00 as well. Measuring would be the only definitive way to tell.

 

FWIW, there are a at least a couple of us running 2.7" pulleys and Roost's Belt Wrap Mod, with stock belts. No issues, so far...

 

The pulley wrap mod will actually not only increase overall wrap around the pulley, but it will also increase the static and dynamic height on the tensioner by about 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch. This is a good alternative solution to swapping belts if stepping down to a 2.7.

 

OBDLink MX+ Bluetooth scanner with their app. It will do data plotting and logging and you can export to csv to read into applications like Excel.

 

You selling it with the optional additional air scoop, or just the air box? Unless shipping ends up being $140 it would be worth it.... let me know.

 

I don't have the optional scoop, just the Momentum GT intake, new in box.

 

Welp, I wish someone would have warned me before putting on the URD pulley. @TheFang it is destroyed and pretty much impossible to pull off an aluminum pulley.

Snout trim complete.

I damaged the threads pulling off my URD pulley. I had to chase the threads so that I could put the snout cutter on. I used my air ratchet on the cutter and it took about 20 min. Now to put on the qwik change. I’m glad they made it one way only. I still gotta trim the new belt. I have one brand new and one almost new stock pulley belt if anybody wants them. I am putting on my 2.5” on. I also got the new injectors in, but not installed yet.

 

Thanks for trying @zippsub9. This 100% makes the decision to go with the qwik change an easy choice. I've been reading the original thread @12TRDTacoma made when he first tried out the qwik change, and to me it is the now tested and proven best way to go. My craftsman puller shipped today, as well as a snout cutter thanks to OP, and a fuel pump upgrade is in the works... just gotta keep finding $$ I can throw at my truck.

 

Pics!

 

Did you have the red one? Stealth came off, but I had pro help.

 

Happy to help with throwing money at the truck. Get the Roostfactor pulley wrap mod as well, money well spent for smaller pulleys.

 

I took a video but couldn’t upload it.

I only used a two arm puller. No help. Sucked and I ended up damaging the threads inside the shaft because of it. Use a three arm to keep it balanced and centered. I only had the stealth, engine was still very warm. Not sure if that made it worse or not.

I need the parts list. Anybody got it, I can’t afford to disturb Roost from either working on my Y-pipe or colluding on some more tuning work.

 

Looks good dude. Lets see this mangled pulley...

 

Fresh cut fleet runner belt and bent pulley. Maybe not as catastrophic as others, but I would never sell or reuse it. It is steel.