TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Check your AFE MAF gasket. I think mine might have been letting a little something through.

 

Are the vibration/noises only at certain rpms?

 

Holy crap! I bought a new one when I started maxing out the sensor. Mine was nice and clean.

 

Ugh.

I've posted this several times. The pulleyboys setup needs to be pressed on further.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...hange-pulley-kit.519702/page-15#post-16587262

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...hange-pulley-kit.519702/page-15#post-16596676

Sorry. There needs to be a sticky somewhere or something.

 

Above like 50mph I start hearing it alot. I'm like 99% sure its something in the differential at this point. With no rear driveshaft I can drive around and hear nothing at all. Put the new driveshaft on and the same noise is back. I'm driving it back to the shop that built the diff and supplied the gears on Monday and gonna let them take a look at it. This is ridiculous that I'm going through diffs every couple thousand miles. This diff only has 200 miles on it, never driven hard at all, Only 15 minutes at a time. These guys need to fix it.

 

They do, but it might be time for that 9”.

 

You know. It's funny you say that...I got a letter in the mail today from my Mortgage company telling me they owe me like $2250 dollars from 2015 from a check I never cashed from a leftover escrow account when I refi'd. Might be time to start looking in on a 9"

 

I'll note it down when I update the thread.

 

Or you could use a socket one size too small to press the hub on. Yep, not my finest performance.

 

9” or the Dana 60. I think the 9” comes from Curry, and the Dana 60 is from East Coast Gear. From pics the 60 kit seemed more complete IMO. As my KO2’s were spinning yesterday I thought about a stronger rear dif.

 

I get that thought often too.

 

I will work on the Dana 60 GB. I just went under contract on a house about ten miles from ECGS shop in Raleigh, NC. I won’t get there until June though.

 

@DocME I understand you have looked into the pros/cons of the stroker kits. I’d be curious what you found and the benefits of the new parts. Can we get forged parts that do not increase the displacement?

I talked to one tuner here in the Dallas area and he had “heard from someone” that the 1gr had rods of glass. We clearly have guys on here pushing more boost and nobody has had a failure.

 

There are forged components in stock dimensions.

 

What do we do about the front dif?

 

Don’t want this to happen.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BxFj6EYBl4T/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=1a8byk6ko7yij

 

Yeah, before I bought a used engine to replace my original I had researched heavily into a built engine. It would be awesome, but seriously costly. Brian Crower makes forged assemblies that you can purchase fully balanced. They include cranks, rods, and pistons. They are about $6,000 when they show up on you door step. But this is only the beginning. You would also at this point need to sleeve your block. This involves machining out the cylinder liners and top deck, then you press in new high performance liners. This costs about $3,000. Also the block has to be clearanced around the pan and cylinder walls for the crank and rods. Next is heads. You can’t buy off the shelf aftermarket heads, but there are components available to build a really good head. There’s companies that will CNC machine the port jobs, you can buy high quality valve springs and oversized valves. I talked with a couple of HIGH quality engine builders that sleeve engines every frequently, and the pricing that I pulled together for a built engine like this is about $15,000.

Obviously you can save quite a bit by not buying a forged crank. I haven’t heard of one failing yet, maybe someone here has? I think the first issue with stock internals with our engine is piston design. There’s is very little material at the top of the piston above the first piston ring. Higher cylinder pressures and significantly higher temperatures due to our supercharger design leads to ring land failures. I’m certain that was the source of my first failure. From others experiences the rods are also a weak link. You can also hone or bore your sleeves minimally. So theoretically you could build up the bottom end using forged rods and pistons and omit the sleeves. I think that would cost around 8,500 with porting and head work. However you may end up finding the next weak link....

 

Also regarding whether or not to stroke: there is no replacement for displacement! Our engines are designed for torque and the stoker kit just improves that. There’s a misconception out there that stroking an engine limits higher rpm performance and I really don’t think that’s accurate for how most people drive their vehicles. If you were to pay $3k for a crank, it would be nice to have a few more cubic inches to show for it. Along with the other benefits of the strokes engine.

 

I will be first on the gb list! Im pumped

 

Not to start an argument here, as different needs and applications require different approaches, and what's good for one isn't always good for another.

If you want HP, you need more rev's, If you want a street truck where you cruise around and like the part throttle grunt of a few PSI a stroker is probaly more your flavor.

I'd still favor a destroked motor capable of significantly more RPM and a much larger operating range over a motor that makes more torque but is limited in RPM.

I guess it depends on what you want need and can afford in the end and I can barely afford bolt-ons LOL