OVTune 3.5L Tacoma Supercharger and Twin Turbo Systems

Being an open deck motor I assume you are pulling the heads to go with a Cometic gasket and ARP studs?

The only reason I am even buying a Gen-3 in August is that you have a decent ECU tune for it and hopefully some much needed bottom end added with some form of FI. I have been real happy with the torque curve on my S/C'd 4.0, comes on strong from idle. If I want top end hooliganism or big numbers I drive my tuned RS7 for that thrill.

I just want another 100hp/120tq on the Gen-3 in a very safe to run platform and I will be happy but it really, really needs improvement in the bottom end. Given that is there any reason you are not considering a Rotrex style blower?

 

Isn't your s/c 1gr also an open deck?

 

Yep, has the upgraded gaskets and ARP head studs. Gotta lock down those wiggly cylinders, lol!

 

Right on. I guess that's cheaper and easier than being custom machined for aftermarket sleeves? Typically open decks are reserved for lower compression motors which these are not. Anyone know how this is accomplished with the platform while maintaining reliability?

 

Keeping it N/A and taking advantage of the superior cooling I would guess but I am sure it is more motor specific and nuanced than that.

All my Audi engines have been and are semi-closed deck so they can take 30psi of boost before needing building of the bottom end. They cool well enough with all parts in play but have a ton more cylinder wall and deck strength than my 1GR. The only way I would think to make a reliable and long lived daily driver in my motor that pushed more than 10psi of boost would be to do as you say above and sleeve it in addition to the gasket, studs and forged internals.

Ultimately I'll reserve my judgment of OVtune's use of turbos in this project when the numbers start coming in.

But in all honestly I think 90% of their potential customers would be happy with exactly what TRD did with just the factory bolt on S/C and that is push 6 pounds of boost at sea level on a 3" pulley and regardless of numbers and dyno charts, really change the way the power delivery comes alive in the 1GR. Going from 236hp to 305hp made a big difference, obviously getting mine up another 100HP has just been spectacular and that is with a max boost of 9psi at sea level.

I just want capable but reliable bottom end power added so I look forward to seeing what they come up with.

 

This is not necessary. 2GR bottom end has proven capable of sustaining 500+HP reliably and that's with the older version internals.
Toyota manufacturing plant confirmed the entire bottom end of the FKS is fully forged, while the FSE, which has done 500+, is sintered. They also let me take a good look at the internals and a FKS chopped in half from stress tests while I was there.

I don't think this engine needs opened at all to do 500.

Really the only crippling part of this engine is the single port exhaust exits in my opinion.

 

But are you going to at least upgrade the head studs to high strength, non-stretching like ARP to better lock down that open deck?

Regardless of internals, those cylinders will become wobbling goblins with any regular and sustained input of both high RPMS and higher than S/C range boost. I don't doubt your confidence in this, I just know that in terms of application of medium to high boost, open deck motors typically are not the first choice for a block design in which to efficiently execute this.

For anyone who is interested, here is a link to what the 2GR FKS looks like in terms of deck design, about 1/3rd the way down the page:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/big-2gr-fks-engine-problem.406251/

And here is a good breakout of the differences between open, semi-closed and closed deck motors in the consideration of applying boost:

https://www.enginelabs.com/news/supporting-your-cylinders-open-semi-closed-or-closed-deck/

 

This. But, I'm not to optimistic. I don't see where the goal for this project has not been stated. Over on the tune side, a goal somehow became fuel mileage. The definition of custom tune seemed to change or was there one (definition)? There was a statement or two of "most of our customers", etc. when as far as I know he has literally no way of knowing how modified his clients or perspective clients trucks are.

But I've been VERY wrong before. I sincerely hope to be proven so this time.

 

No plans at this time to change head studs. OEM head gasket is MLS so no need to change that either. Completely unopened 2GRs have done 500+WHP, which isn't a lot of boost honest, around 10psi, without anything needing touched.

The block should not be a problem at this power level.
The setup we are going for isn't for making big numbers anyway. (Not in the block breaking realm).

Considering the engine comes stock with "300hp" I find it unrealistic to think that another 150hp is going to break the block.

Head bolts don't need changed unless lift becomes a concern, at much higher cylinder pressures.

It's not like we're stuffing 25psi down it's throat.

I'll double check but I'm pretty sure even the V35A is open deck and it comes from Toyota as a twin turbo.

 

Our goal with this build was to maximize torque, with spool coming as fast as we can get it. Not looking for what's possible at 7000 rpm, or breaking records. All of that is pretty useless for this truck ( unless that's what someone is specifically wanting. 99 percent dont ).

 

Thanks for this and I appreciate it, I am glad you are working to get the most out of the motor.

My only additional input would be that a lot of folks are looking to improve the bottom end for utility reasons such as towing and in my case, hauling a camper in the back full time. Living at 8,000 feet I am capped at about 7.5psi in what sees 9 at sea level but even with that, I tend to not go above 3psi for sustained climbs up long grades because sustained load also plays a role in how the motor handles all those combined additional boost factors.

I would be stoked if you can get this motor to come alive in the same way my S/C has which is much more usable power from idle and hovering around 80%-100% peak torque at 2500-4500 rpms.

Once you get it all buttoned up and ready to go, I will strongly consider the upgrade.

 

Well we have billet rods in the works for people with concern.
The only other factor is controlling cylinder temperature at long bouts of sustained boost. Our test truck will go through hell before it's released. Because we want it working like OEM. Floor it up the mountain pulling 4k pounds without blinking.
Not staring at gauges or rpm nervously.

I think somewhere in here our first goal is set at 400/400. Very mild increase, and won't take much boost. So temperature control is the only concern other than making the tune safe.

Having a SC or turbo that you have to be nervous to tow with sucks, and not what we plan to release. Besides we can easily setup a tow map that you can switch to with ECT button (which should be used in tow) and can reduce torque via ignition / vvt to keep temps down, along with richer fueling.

 

If you need a prerunner tester for the setup let me know
Putting a full floater camburg 35 spine rear axel in mine with a full 4 link and 4.5 long travel kit up front

 

Reading all these latest posts got me excited for this

 

It is exciting indeed.

But be aware this will not be some $3,000 set it and forget it endeavor, forced induction as an add on *never* is. I would not be surprised that if to make it a truly daily drivable platform, it will be well north of $6,000.

 

6k is better than I anticipated. I was expecting higher than that and if it makes the truck a "better" truck, then I be willing to pay for it. I'm going into this not expecting a 500-600whp vehicle. I honestly would be happy with 100whp extra as I think that will make the truck feel alive and more enjoyable. My only request is to make sure the bov is audible 'cause who doesn't love the sound of a bov, but I know that isn't the case with this build

I was young and dumb once and placed a turbo on my Scion xB. Even though the turbo only ran at 5psi and made the car go from 90whp to 120whp, it made that car so much more fun to drive. That was until I threw a rod out the side of the block. Fun times

 

$6K is a pull it out of my rear guess.

I'm right there with you in terms of desired increase. I just know from first hand experience that what ever the vendor's advertised cost is, plan to double that for specifics, contingencies and ancillary costs. My need for bottom end is strictly for work purposes, if I want to have fun, I have another ride that does 0-60 in less 3 seconds and will hit just over 200 in about 35...

 

My plan was to purchase a sports car, but I am afraid it will become my main ride and I will neglect my truck so if I can make the truck more enjoyable, then I don't need the sports car lol. Ok, I do need one, but I can postpone it longer.

What I hope from this is that someone with decent mechanical skillset can install it themselves or will this be required for a shop to install that are more familiar with turbo setups

 

To set realistic expectations, a good turbocharger is north of $1500. There is no way this kit will be around $3000.

 

Well, figure you will need a higher capacity fuel pump, bigger injectors to start with to meet the fueling requirements. Then depending on how the turbos are setup those will need both cooling and lubrication although I doubt they would be journal bearings due to added complexity. A boost and A/F-R gauge would be wise as always with any FI application. Then there is the intake manifold, I have no idea what if any changes are being done with that to introduce turbos. And then there are the turbos them selves with the exhaust consideration up stream and down stream of them.

The 3rd gen Taco does have a big grill opening so inter cooling for the turbos ought to go well. Lots of things weigh into this and to be honest, even if one pays a shop to do the install, knowing exactly how all this stuff works and how to work on and trouble shoot it is very valuable thing. This is not a road rocket that you are always going to be able to call AAA for if things go South. As do many that own these trucks, I get into some pretty remote places so the idea of self reliance and self rescue is always at the top of my personal operating philosophy with these types of upgrades.

Everyone's comfort level and milage will vary greatly.