Turbo BS Thread

He needs to make sure he did it with the throttle fully open as well. Those numbers are way too low. I would recommend redoing the compression check

 

Never heard of keeping the throttle open but I can totally redo the test when I prepare for a leak down test.

Thanks I'm going to try cleaning them first before I think about replacement. It wouldn't surprise if some of them are clogged from dirty oil.

 

Not saying this is the cause, but my recommendation from my own personal experience is ensure there are absolutely no boost leaks before doing any work on tuning. Everyone with a forced induction car that also works on their own shit should have a boost leak tester, and use it not only when setting up their system for the first time and tuning, but periodically as well.
Nothing wildly expensive or fancy is needed either. Just a source of compressed air, and a simple coupler with a gauge. This is basically the type I use:

 

Go back a few pages unless you talking about the older 2.7s

 

Pop into my build thread for more . Feel free to ask whatever. I'm still new to the forced induction world so still figuring things out.

20190504_184611 by Ryan Heintzelman - Flickr2BBcode

 

File off corners


Make sure clears hole

 

That's really clean man.

So I reran the compression test and still got around 125 psi

I then did the leak down test which showed all cylinders had the same amount right between yellow and green zones.

Sooooo now I believe the lash adjusters need a good cleaning/replacement. Do we know if it's possible to remove/install them without removing the cam or messing with the timing chain?

 

I really like what you've done here.

 

Paging @MrCrowntown . Updates!!!

 

This is good news.

 

Are you doing the compression test cold or warm? The FSM calls for doing the compression test with the engine warmed up to operating temp.

http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old...6toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/00800110.pdf
Section 10 on page 3.

 

You do have to remove the cams to get to them

 

I did the test cold both times because I didn't want to risk stripping the plugs. So that means my numbers should be even higher when hot. I'm just glad they tested all the same.

Ughhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh I don't like that. So doesn't that also mean timing chain, timing cover and the whole front of the engine?

Yeah I'm glad the valves are ok although if something more serious was wrong I'm pretty sure I would have been driving as much as I have been. I don't thin I've had any loss in power just more ticking sound.

 

www.lceperformance.com That will give you a round about idea.

 

I found a used setup. I'm in about 2250. I can weld so I was able to save money making my exhaust.

I was thinking about turboing my T100 as cheap as I could. Just added a bunch of stuff to my ebay cart and it totalled around $1500. Not quality parts by any means.

 

The good thing about all of the 4 bangers is there are turbo manifold available and they are pretty cheap and save a ton of fabrication

 

I've seen pics of guys zip-ting chain in place on sprocket, so don't have to remove front cover and chain stays in correct place... loosen bracket and lift, swap adjuster etc. If you take your time it could go by quickly

 

Updates?



Vacation lol

 

How much boost is that ?