Wifi tech needed.

I would go with an Access point. You connect this to the end of the network cable in your shed.

$54 TP-Link EAP225 Omada AC1350 Gigabit Wireless Access Point Business WiFi Solution w/ Mesh Support, Seamless Roaming & MU-MIMO PoE Powered SDN Integrated Cloud Access & Omada App White

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wire...plink+ap&qid=1557512740&s=gateway&sr=8-1&th=1

We use the 1750 model in one of our smaller warehouses and it performs very well. also look at Ubiquiti. I setup a couple of ubiquiti networks for some smallish warehouses/ shops too and they perform great.

If you have power, these typically come with an injector that you plug in where you mount the AP. Otherwise you can put the injector inline as the wire leaves your router in your house.

Source- IT manager/ systems application specialist for 12 years.

 

Thank you, does it have spaces to plug in Sonos, pool equipment and sprinklers and perhaps a TV?

 

You're welcome! If it is just hardwired ports you are after, you can use this: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethe...h&qid=1557515208&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

Just plug the run in from the house into it and then you can distribute from garage to your shed, to a sonos, to the WiFi AP that i mentioned previously. You can get a Switch with built in POE too which will then power the WiFi AP.

 

That should work fine.
As you say, this is the easier/cheaper way to go if you have power out there, and definitely if you want a few more ports out there. The other router ports can be used just like a switch to hook up additional stuff.

This website has the manufacturer instructions for setting up in access mode.
https://www.tp-link.com/us/support/faq/2066/

Here is section from manual I believe



Try to use the firmware emulator online to see if you think you can do it. It helps to get familiar with the firmware. (Hit browse next to the firmware emulator, then follow the instructions given above).
https://www.tp-link.com/us/support/download/archer-a7/#Emulators




Regarding ground, I didnt articulate well.

If your Ethernet wire is running parallel to power lines for a good distance, etc, then shielded ethernet cable is recommended. (It seems that it takes pretty bad practices to get to the point you need shielded cable in my limited experience)

I am speaking to the building wire. How does the power supply come to the shed (120V)?

In general, if you have an ethernet cable connecting two buildings, you really want to tie the ground between the shed and the building together. If the power to the shed comes directly from your house, it should be 3 wires (at least run out to the shed). Hot (120V Black), Neutral (0V white), and Ground (green). If these are correctly hooked up in the house and the shed, then this should all be good. When the ground in the building isnt tied to the house, then it is alot easier for something (like lightning) to put big currents in your tiny ethernet cable, and inject a few thousand volts into your equipment.


With regards to ethernet cable, if the cable runs underground (even if it is in tubing or conduit), flooded (waterproof) Ethernet cable is recommended.
an example

$173 Vertical Cable Cat5e, 350 Mhz, UTP, Gel Filled (Flooded Core), Direct Burial, 1000ft, Black, Bulk Ethernet Cable

https://www.amazon.com/Vertical-Cable-Filled-Flooded-Ethernet/dp/B005EV2A4E

 

No need for a second router. Use the extender recommended by TacoRuss. What's nice about this is that you can set it to use the same SSID and password. Just make sure to set it to the weakest point of the wifi signal and it'll enhance that area. I've used these in homes and my business and they work great. Also, if you have one of those combo modem and router. I would highly recommend to ditch those. Get yourself a separate modem and separate router. This might enhance performance with less loud to the router. Which can prevent wifi drops, but this also depends on the router.

 

A router in AP mode can use the same SSID and password. I think the OP is not that tech savvy. Please don't add confusion.

 

Glad I’m not the only nerd in here. Lol

 

You guys are awesome. I really appreciate your help. I think I’ve got it. I’m on the phone now. I’ll evaluate more on my decision once I get home.
Thanks again.


PS:Regarding the wire this is what I used

$237 trueCABLE Cat6 Direct Burial, 1000ft, Waterproof, Outdoor Rated CMX, Black, 23AWG Solid Bare Copper, 550MHz, PoE++ (4PPoE), ETL Listed, Unshielded UTP, Bulk Ethernet Cable

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01JAVMYLM/ref=sspa_mw_detail_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

The other option is to switch from an omni directional to a directional antenna. Most routers and range extenders use the same connector type. There are a thousand different brands and models of wifi antennas on ebay, Amazon, newEgg etc. You could change 1 or more antennas on your existing router or add a panelYagi on the range extender.

 

[OP ignore this discussion] sorry for hijack.

After dealing with routers that would only last a year or so, I gave up and did Ubiquity access points and router and poe injector switch. Should have done it earlier. With 1 overhead AP in house and 1 in detached garage. Really happy. 5 ghz in house and garage, good 2.4 ghz in yard.

Friend more recently used a couple existing ethernet drops with the newer in-wall access points, 2 in the house on opposite ends and a poe injector switch. That seems like a pretty elegant retrofit for alot of existing houses that already have a few drops. I will probably try that configuration next time I have to do an install. Easier than running cable to a new ceiling AP by a huge margin.

 

I’ll get this one.

$59 TP-Link AC1750 Smart WiFi Router (Archer A7) -Dual Band Gigabit Wireless Internet Router for Home, Works with Alexa, VPN Server, Parental Control, QoS

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC17...P&qid=1557511814&s=gateway&sr=8-16&th=1&psc=1

That way I can have wiffi in the backyard and pool and also I can plug a sonos, pool equipment, and tv.

Thanks again guys for all your help.

 

Ethernet powerline adapter is another option
A lot easier than a lot of these other options
Sorry I'm late

@El Tano

 

Any luck?

 

Well, thanks for asking, I bought the TP-link AC 1750 (Archer A7). I tried to set it up and the Uverse gateway went nuts, started resetting itself every 10 minutes. Finally att's tech came today and replaced the modem/router. Unfortunatelly since ATT doesn't let you use your own modem and router I have to stick to the Pace 5268AC Gateway Internet Wireless Modem Router that they provide.
I've been reading and found this:

1. Set your router's WAN interface to get an IP address via DHCP. This is required at first so that the 2Wire recognizes your router.

2. Plug your router's WAN interface to one of the 2Wire's LAN interfaces.

3. Restart your router, let it get an IP address via DHCP.

4. Log into the 2Wire router's interface. Go to Settings -> Firewall -> Applications, Pinholes, and DMZ

5. Select your router under section (1).

6. Click the DMZPlus button under section (2).

7. Click the Save button.

8. Restart your router, when it gets an address via DHCP again, it will be the public outside IP address. At this point, you can leave your router in DHCP mode (make sure the firewall on your router allows the DHCP renewal packets, which will occur every 10 minutes), or you can change your router's IP address assignment on the WAN interface to static, and use the same settings it received via DHCP.

9. On the 2Wire router, go to Settings -> Firewall -> Advanced Configuration

10. Uncheck the following: Stealth Mode, Block Ping, Strict UDP Session Control.

11. Check everything under Outbound Protocol Control except NetBIOS.

12. Uncheck NetBIOS under Inbound Protocol Control.

13. Uncheck all the Attack Detection checkboxes (7 of them).

14. Click Save.



Your router should now be able to route as if the 2Wire was a straight bridge, for the most part.

So now I'm trying to understand what all that means. I'm afraid of connecting the tp-link to the gateway again and mess it up again.
So far the media cabinet is looking good though

 

I did this to get access in my garage and it works great. I was lucky and my dual band routers blended seamlessly but I have read that others run into issues.

I'm running frontiers fios router and an Asus AC1900 set to AP mode.

 

So I believe those are the instructions to essentially turn off the router functions (or dont use them) on your service provider hardware. Basically, your purchased router would do the ip address (dhcp) job rather than the service provider hardware.

These instructions are what you do if you want to use your own purchased router in the house (and use it's own wifi and dhcp). Those instructions are exactly what I have done to upgrade the router in my HOUSE.

I doubt you want to follow those instructions to get your wifi out to the shed.
I would recommend to plug power into your new router and connect an ethernet cable from one of its local ports to your computer temporarily. (Dont connect it to your existing network yet).

Then get your new tplink into access point mode per the previous discussed instructions using your computer. Once it is set up, connect it to your existing network using one of the local ethernet ports on the new tplink (not the wan port)

I bet it will work fine, and wont cause restarts on your existing equipment.

 

Thank you big white, I’ll try it today.

 

I have been using the TP-Link 1750 for probably 3-4 years now with no issues. DES2009 is correct about the WAP configuration. This would be your best solution for your situation.

Keep in mind the 5 Ghz channel is faster but has shorter range. 2.4 Ghz has better range but is not as fast. An example is my phone that's always moving around in the house, garage, outside or back deck I only connect to 2.4 Ghz channel so it can have more range. A device such as a smart TV located close to the WiFi router could benefit from 5G speed as long as it's capable to "see" a 5 Ghz channel.

Hope this helps & nice media cabinet!

 

Thank you so much for all the suggestions. I didn’t have time to connect it, I’m slammed with work. Most of my electronics are wired, I have a switch , tv, printer, satellite and audio is wired, I really don’t have problems inside the house, but the backyard and garage have no reception, my goal is to add a switch to the TP-Link to be able to connect audio, tv and pool equipment and have WiFi signal.

 

Neat thread.

I understand the limitations w the Uverse stuff you have to deal with but wanted to chime in - I also have several Sonos products on my home network one of which was in my garage about 30 feet from my house.

The garage Sonos was intermittently connected, often cutting out or not connected in the first place. Even more frustrating was the Sonos app on my phone not connecting when the Play5 was going. Couldn’t skip a song, change stations...

I have DSL and wanted to squeeze every modicum of bandwidth from it as we’re streaming more shows and movies. I still need to rewire the POTS wire from my NIC but in the meantime, I went w the router and extender linked below and upgraded all cables to Cat 6.

Paid through the nose for the set up but it’s well worth it in my opinion. The MIMO (Multiple Input Multiple Output) features of the router and extender are amazingly fast and stable as is the “wireless” bridge between the two.

The extender has 4 Ethernet connections and all components attached are seen by my network as wired.

I have the coverage I was hoping for in the garage. We’re able to stream shows and movies to two 50” HD TVs. At times the quality is better than others but that’s on my provider as shown on my Network Analyzer App.

$400 Linksys WiFi 5 Router, Tri-Band, 3000 Sq. ft Coverage, 25+ Devices, Speeds up to (AC5400) 5.4Gbps - EA9500

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017NT8Q24?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title&th=1

Linksys RE9000: AC3000 Tri-Band Wi-Fi Extender, Wireless Range Booster for Home, 4 Gigabit Ethernet Ports, Works with Any Wi-Fi Router (Black)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B076ZHXK6J?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title