Nova Scotia BS Thread

So, when are we gonna do this?

 

Coffee???

crap, playoffs are really messing with coffee scheduling...

 

Are you up for tonight?

 

Game 6 Raptors tonight, so that's a no for me.

 

Lol, you will have to let us know when you have a chance! We'll have a special Spillproof coffee night

 

Ben was asking me about when the next coffee meet was as well

 

Too rich for my blood but thanks

Chad

 

Pretty disappointed that the 4.0s govern at 180

 

Well after years of talking about it I'll finally be dropping those parts off to Canoehead. It's the thought that counts though right?

 

Well, you probably shouldn't be driving a high CoG vehicle, with tires not rated for high speeds above 180. No judgement but she's a truck not a sports car, I feel sketched out in mine above 130.

 

Just gonna leave this here for the sweet double cab Hilux in the teaser

https://jalopnik.com/tips-for-driving-fast-with-a-high-center-of-gravity-1834647217

 

is anyone good with charging systems? I thought I had this all figured out, but I've changed my mind about 3x now as to what the issue is.
**it should be noted that troubleshooting has been very basic at this point**

thrusday the battery light came on, but everything seemed fine, so I drove to work and back home as usual. Next day same thing light was on, but drove to work and back thinking " I should really check that out.." yesterday whipped out the multimeter and found the battery was at 12.5V. I started the truck, battery dropped to 11.8 ish but stayed there. also now that the truck was running, the voltage should have been up past 13v right?

so I hopped in the truck, and rev'd it to 2k to see if the voltage changed. Nothing, if anything it dropped slightly.

Ok, I think, alternator is dead, yup, gotta be it. so I priced it out, $365ish from napa, only one in the city ect... so I figured I better make sure I was correct in my minimal diagnosis. I opened up the hood again and looked. My battery had moved slightly forward and apparently that movement had stressed out the ground cable from the negative terminal to the body, it was severely frayed at the terminal BUT still had a *few* strands left connecting it. ( this was my falut, replaced with a shorter battery and was lazy about making a new battery holder that fit. )

at this point I figured " Great! bad ground! I can fix this and be on my way cheap! " so to test I took a beefy jumper cable, connected the negative terminal to the body simulating the ground cable and tried again...... Nada, no change, and by now my voltage on the battery was 11.5V due to all the re-starts ect..

my questions are

1) anyone have any good resources for actually testing the alternator? I think there is a way to put your multimeter on the alt, and then on the body to see if its producing voltage
2) could the bad ground have "fried" the alt? you know, since it could not transfer all that energy it was producing to the batt / truck?
3) anyone know how to get that friggen cable clip on the top of the alt off? the one that I ***assume*** is the positive cable. its kind long, and prevents stray stuff from touching what I think is the positive connection
4) anyone replace the battery connector before? the negative one has the two cables going into the same crimp connector, I'm thinking I have to buy an aftermarket one, cut the end off the existing one and connect it all together

any links or suggestions are appriciated, being Mothers day and all I don't have much time to myself to do this....For the time being I'm going to crimp up the heavest guage wire I have and find a way to temporarly repair the ground cable, and charge the battery each night so I can get to work.


also any experience with aftermarket alts? or good rebuild shops? I think there is on one Kempt Rd. but no idea if they are "good" or not.

 

Can't help with anything but 4, but my body ground was the same way - I drilled a hole in the terminal and bolted on a new cable ($10 at Napa or c-tire)
Toyota on Kempt will test the battery, starter and alternator for $35 + tax

One last thought, when my old 69 ford wouldn't charge I went thru 3 junk yard alternators before taking it to an auto electrician who replaced a $5 solenoid and fixed it properly.

 

No lift and street tires still , I don’t plan to do it ever again I was curious On long straight stretch of highway was impressed how quick it got there
I was going from 120- 180 once it touched 180 I felt the governor instantly And I dropped back to 120

I did this with my 4cyl corolla once it did the same thing

I just kind of figured on a v6 it governor a bit higher

 

I bought the same cable from Napa, I used some washers and managed to get it on the terminal clamp. Still no luck to for me. I finally popped off the top to the positive cable from the alt, she's pretty crusty. So crusty that when I was pokeing around with the multimeter lots of metal flaked away

it seems very likely right now it is the alt, but $35 is pretty cheap.... I may give them a call tomorrow. Thanks for the tip.

 

Hey everyone, my exhaust system is getting pretty crusty and I am replacing some gaskets and bolts/springs. My exhaust itself also has a hole or two.. or three haha so it should be replaced, or patched for now.

My question is, the dealer wants $611 for the exhaust portion alone. Does anyone have a Toyota parts website they order from that ships to Canada, and has a better price on gaskets and exhaust?

 

Toyota Parts Direct: https://www.toyotapartsdirect.ca/productsearch.aspx?partner=google_098_toyota_general
Toyota Parts Overstock: https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/

Not sure how much better you can do price wise. If they have the parts, their prices are better than the dealer. Shipping can sometimes negate the difference. Worth looking though.

 

Not sure where you're located but I know a shop in the valley that can save you a ton of cash on the repairs... I got quoted $750 for the exhaust on my lexus and when i got it done at this local shop it cost me just over $200 taxes in... If you want contact info let me know...

Chad

 

Ordering from the TPD website, I can get the exhaust for $617 to my door VS $611+tax from the dealership (so I save the tax pretty much) I would still need to buy the gaskets and springs from the dealership due to the website not having them all listed.

So, $84 taxes in for the gaskets and springs I need for the exhaust, and I source my own bolts to clamp it all together (they want $8.80+tax per bolt, and they will still rust apart easily)

I think I might get the exhaust holes repaired to get another 2+ years (hopefully) out of it before doing a swap for a new one. Just bought a house in January and could use the funds for repairs on the house over the truck at the moment)

PM me the information, I might hit them up. (I live in Lwr Sackville but could swing up for an afternoon/evening to get it done)

 

Maybe check out carquest for the gaskets and spring kit. I know I got a spring kit from them for my Matrix for like $12 when it was $20 on Amazon.

Actually, if it's just the tailpipe and muffler you need to replace (just looked at tpd and that's what it seems like you get for $615) carquest have a walker oem style muffler for $180 that has the back end of the tailpipe on it. It doesn't have the front part of the tailpipe though (the bit that runs up to the spring bolted flange). I put one on mine and it drones a bit between 100 and 110 kph but not annoyingly so and that might just be because the front part of my tailpipe doesn't have the s bend in it so I had to beat it with a hammer to clear the crossmember. I actually cut the back end of the walker tailpipe off and welded my original one back on so I kinda wished I had just bought a generic muffler to be honest.