Colorado B.S. Thread

You said, and I quote, "Wimpy foot man!!" Implying one is wimpy for using a foot purchase, hence they are not needed. "Sorry, babe... the taco lady said so! Here, let me help you wipe that round tubular imprint off your ***."

 

This is true... but the rotation angle is going to determine how much distance there is between the center of the tube and the side of the truck below the door and whether or not somone needs climbing shoes to wedge a toe in there, or whether the ball of the foot can get a decent purchase on the slippery round object.

 

Lol ok
You sure read a lot into my post

 

Damn engineering degree. Sorry.

 

Over thinking sliders......

 

I went with DOM. I did sacrifice a few lattes though, for $70 more why not. Gotta be able brag about them at the local Starbucks.

 

True
If I going overthink sliders it would be the eating kind

 

Another lift question...

Aiming for 3" lift front / rear (loaded -- maybe), similar to what @Box Rocket did on his '03 DC with a full OME kit with 882s & OME AAL (D6XL or D43XL) and All-Pro 1.5 shackles. Planning on LR UCA's up front. If my daily surveying load proves too heavy, fall back plan is Firestone RideRite airbags over Daystar cradles.

What other "extras" or little items should I be ordering? E.g. will I need / should I get extended brake lines? New bumpstops? If so, which ones? Wheeler Superbumps? What else?

ETA: Is a Diff Drop Kit required? I have read, though, that a diff drop kit only changes the angle (slightly) of the front differential, and really doesn't drop it down much at all, so it really doesn't help. That poster recommended against a diff drop kit.

 

Who needs sliders when you can jump over everything?

 

I don't think you'll need the lift shackle if you're going with lifted springs.

My take on the diff drop is if your boot fins don't touch after the lift it's not needed. It does drop the diff about a 1/2" which is usually enough to avoid rubbing the fins. The "oil starvation" issue people site is bs.


You'll need new ubolts and likely the spring eye bolts as the old ones will most likely need to be cut.

 

Davis.....

Hasn't had a beer yet. But he had a donut and started pulling the wrong bolts. We'll see how this goes.

 

Appreciate the advice. New Ubolts are part of my list already. I'll double check on the spring eye bolts.

Should new bumpstops be on the list? With a 3" lift (loaded) - 3.5" lift (unloaded), should extended brake lines be installed? This brake valve (re-)proportioning valve doohickey I've read about... does that apply to 1st gens?

@Reh5108, I am unsure if you have seen my postings in the past. My frame qualified for free replacement and is presently @ a Boulder stealership awaiting the replacement frame. Installation of new suspension is free, so I want to ensure all the parts necessary are on hand for the mechanic when he puts Humpty Dumpty together again. When I took all my land survey gear & equipment out of the truck, it totalled 900lbs, give or take. With that much weight, the back end is going to sag, even with Dakars + OME AAL. I am largely modelling my build off what @Box Rocket had done with his '03 TRD DC. (I'm bothering him via PM.) He ran the All-Pro 1.5" shackle which gave him 3.5" lift unloaded and 3" loaded with ~500lbs. Even if I trim down my daily load, I'm pretty sure I will not be any lighter than he was, so I'm thinking go with the same shackle setup he ran.

A diff drop kit is only $27 from @Wheeler's Off-Road Inc... Does it hurt anything to put it on anyway, even if not needed? Or have it on hand for the mechanic to decide as he is doing the suspension (re-)install?

 

Oh this is going to end well.

 

Give us your best cv removal trick.
Everything was real easy up until now.

 

Nevermind

 

glad we could help

 

cut cut cut cut cut

 

more to cut

 

Now the new CV is in but won't turn.
Since it's not my truck, my idea is to reassemble and use the wheel to turn it and everything will magically fix itself.