LED Light Electrical Help Needed

I will try the Light bar direct to battery tonight. 1) to see if its good, and
2) to determine if its wired correctly ( red+ black- or if its backwards red- and black+.)

If I graduate from that successfully I will try using a different relay to see if the original one is good or not.

I only have one fuse in the tap.

 

You only use 4 pins. Leave the last one undone. That's perfectly fine

 

87a should have absolutely nothing on it

 

Whats you're question? Because the diagram and the picture you shared is the same layout.

I just included all of his components into one diagram

 

Really at a loss. The picture you showed doesn't have a blue seas fuse panel or breaker in it. So neither is that.

If you're referring to the location of the switch it doesn't matter where the leads of the switch are located. As long as it completes the circuit and triggers the magnetic field to activate the switch, it works. The picture you shared is a common set up for if he's tapping a fuse in the engine bay. The way I showed which is more common for Tacomas is to tap Into the fuse panel inside the cab and run that to the switches. At which point you'd run the gound through the relay to complete the circuit mentioned above, and then continue onto a common ground I. E. the frame, the negative pole on the aux fuse box or the negative terminal on the battery itself.

 

This is my point. By the picture you showed, he is running a tap from Inside the truck, running the hot allllllll the way out the firewall, grabbing the relay, coming allll the way back in to grab the switch, and then from the switch running allllll the way back out Into the engine bay to grab ground.

In the pic above you can see the fuse panel in the engine bay and he's not tapping out there. So unless he's pulling 3 wires through the firewall for switching alone, when he could be doing 1, yes that how he is or should be doing it.


It doesn't matter how you complete the circuit on the magnet side. The easiet way is to grab power from the inside tap, and which is where he is grabbing it, run it to the switch, go from the switch to the relay, and from the other side of the relay to complete the circuit. 1 wire through the firewall.

 

You need two fuses in the fuse tap . that could be your problem try a 2nd fuse in the tap .

 

87a shall remain unused.

I just got off work and have a 45 min drive home.

 

What size amps?

 

Same size as the first one. The bottom fuse completes the circuit you plugged into. The top fuse sends power to the tapped wire.

 

If that's the problem great catch. I couldn't tell from the photo if there were one or 2 fuses.

 

Haha. That might help.

 

Great cachet by @hawaii_dave . Hope it's that simple.

 

If it was me I would switch the Positive wire and not the negative. That way you don't a open ended hot wire there. Your circuit looks ok if you have them both fused with good connections. Since you have already checked the positive side start with the switch and the wire to chassis ground. Dc is a funny animal it does not take much resistance in the form of a faulty connection that looks good to keep it from working.

 

Thank you 20tacoma17....

Put in a second fuse and voila! We have Light!

I feel like such a maroon!!!

 

Now that problem is solved I have a new question for all the smart people in the room...

Is there someplace besides the in cab fuse panel I can use as a post ignition hot supply?

Possibly even relocate the hot connection that goes from the battery to the circuit breaker to someplace post ignition so I dont have to use these fuse taps?

 

hmmm I guess you missed my last question on my first post #16 in this thread . glad you got it working .

 

I guess I do owe Hawaii Dave an apology. He was the first to point out the two fuse issue. I guess I was just too frustrated or confused to have comprehended it!

 

When you say "flip" do you mean unplug it, turn it 180 degrees so the fuse is pointing the other direction and re-inserting it?