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Lower control arm replacement

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Tekneek, May 7, 2019.

  1. May 13, 2019 at 11:31 PM
    #21
    Area51Runner

    Area51Runner Well-Known Member

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    If in your position, I would LOSE the spacer lift. Going to do this, do it right. Suspension lift only IMO.

    From Wheeler's site:

    I am running 881s paired with nitrochargers and am quite satisfied with the handling and ride quality. Then again, double cab here without 4WD.

    What did they suggest when you spoke with them?
     
  2. May 14, 2019 at 7:24 AM
    #22
    Tekneek

    Tekneek [OP] Well-Known Member

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    They said something about something being welded (?) onto the body lift? Although I thought spacers were just put on there... they mentioned it would be a lot of work to get the body lift off. Does this seem plausible to you?
     
  3. May 14, 2019 at 9:47 AM
    #23
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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    Couple things: okay, more than a couple...

    That shop is getting you to pay for additional parts you don't need (new control arms have bushings installed already) because they are too lazy to press out/in new bushings. Don't fall for that. So no, that does not make sense.

    There are ONLY 2 reasons to replace the lower control arms: 1) the arm itself is damaged or broken (this is exceedingly rare) or 2) you are going with a long travel suspension setup (which is exceedingly expensive, and not just something you can bolt on).

    For the upper control arms, the only reason to replace those is if you've lifted the truck more than about 2.5 or so inches (or maybe if you have a mid travel setup and need the extra articulation), or if your wheel/tire combination contacts the control arm in certain conditions.

    The OME setup is great, and you'll be happy with it, but as far as the UCAs are concerned, I don't think you "need" to replace them. Stick with the OME setup at first and go form there. As far as I know, most people who run the OME kit and 33's don't need UCAs, too. That can't hurt, but it is extra money you many not need to spend.

    Get the OME kit installed and align it, if it clears the wheels and aligns correctly, you're good and no worries.
     
    Last edited: May 14, 2019
    OneWheelPeel likes this.
  4. May 14, 2019 at 9:58 AM
    #24
    Tekneek

    Tekneek [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Okay this is really insightful. I will have them just replace bushings in that case. Also I don’t think welding would be required to remove the body lift... I don’t get that explanation.

    Going with OME front and back with 883 springs.

    Man, it’s just irritating that it’s such a pain to find an honest shop. These guys were highly recommended.

    Guess I should’ve done more homework before going.

    Thanks all
     
  5. May 14, 2019 at 10:05 AM
    #25
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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    It may not be that they are being dishonest, that's just a typical SOP because it IS cheaper (for the shop). If you go in there and ask them JUST to press the bushings, and they refuse, or give you some story about how that's not possible, then walk away. But if you bring in bushings (whitelines I hear are the best OEM alternative) they should be able to replace them.

    The other thing is that the vast majority of all that work you can do with a couple jack stands and some wrenches. Hell, if you go with something like Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings, you don't even need a press. Basically, you burn out the old rubber - leaving the original outer bushing sleeve, and the urethane bushings slide right in.

    All the rest of the suspension is purely bolt-on. Except if you have to assemble the front coils and shocks, but you can rent a spring compressor tool for free at most auto parts stores. You can rent all the special tools you need for free, actually...
     
    Tekneek[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  6. May 14, 2019 at 12:15 PM
    #26
    Tekneek

    Tekneek [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I may just go that route man... they want to charge me $1100 in labor to remove the body lift and install new suspension system.... seems high
     
  7. May 14, 2019 at 12:32 PM
    #27
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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    That does sound fairly high. It's not particularly hard work. I'm just some goober with a couple wrenches, and I had my front suspension completely torn down, then replaced ball joints, coil overs, upper control arms, tie rod ends and steering bushing in the better part of half a day. The rear I took apart several years ago to get some new bushings pressed in. There are 12 total bolts holding the rear springs together (4 each side U-bolts, etc...). I had the springs completely off the truck in like an hour.

    A couple pros with a lift should be able to get all that done in like 2-3 hours unless they run into a bunch of rusty bolts and stuff...
     
  8. May 14, 2019 at 12:37 PM
    #28
    Tekneek

    Tekneek [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Mkay good info, thanks for the details on all this.

    Wish I could just give you or someone else on here to do it (while I watch so I can learn).
     
  9. May 14, 2019 at 12:50 PM
    #29
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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    There are a ton of build threads and tutorials on this site, just search around for them. If you can turn a wrench, you can do it. If you get stuck, we're always here to help out. :thumbsup:
     
  10. May 14, 2019 at 12:58 PM
    #30
    Tekneek

    Tekneek [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Awesome. I’ll be sure to cash in that offer!
     
    jbrandt[QUOTED] likes this.

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