TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

2014 here.... still an issue.

 

That's weird. That's like those 2nd gen 1GR equipped with the oil cooler rides that take 5 quarts instead of 5.5.

Factory freaks man.

 

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I think it has to do with the oil pan. Some trucks have the shorter pan for some reason. My 05 tundra with the 4.0 has the short pan. It calls for like 4.8 Q but I put in 5 and call it a day. With my 2014 taco it is happy with 5.5 every time so far.

 

The only difference in pans is the 1GR X-Runner. Apparently the pan is shallow in comparison to the standard 1GR and I think ends up taking some 4.5 over the standard 5.5 (6 if you use the huge oil filter).

So it's a little weird with what's going on. I was thinking pan as well but I doubt there was a revision over the years because the 1GR VVTi model has always been the same internally. At least from what I know.

 

My engine oil dip stick can be a little tricky to read but no need for bifocals yet. Maybe soon.

On a side note, how do I check if I have bad oil control rings?

 

I dont worry about it anymore though cause I'm running 6qts now and the bigger filter thanks to this thread.

 

Leak down test.

 

Replace pcv valve. Install catch can. Do an oil change and make sure u have the correct level. If it still having oil come out after that the mad scientist is going to have to replace the piston rings you fried

 

What these last two quotes say..

There is a dirty way of doing the test. Just slam on the pedal and if you get a cloud of blue-ish smoke coming from the tailpipe then your rings are likely shot. Of course that is just a very dirty and inaccurate way of checking. Blue smoke coming from the tailpipe could indicate worn valve guides too.

 

Not blowing blue smoke yet. Thanks guys. Very helpful.

 

Finally got a change to relocate the inter cooler pump! Not ecstatic about the extra connections required to extend the line, but I can always replace that later.

 

How come you moved it down there?

I moved mine so I could fit my winch. I actually ended up shortening the hoses. I don’t have any close ups, but this will give you an idea of where mine ended up.

 

Hey nice truck.

 

Thanks. It’s a work in progress

 

I was looking at that spot but I didn’t want it sitting in front of the impact sensor, and it was fairly tight in that area. I also wasn’t positive if I was going to have room for my bumper and winch, so I moved it where it is so there’s no doubt that it won’t be in the way. Once I get the bumper and skids on it won’t be exposed at all

 

What are your blower mods so far?

 

Quick change 2.7 pulley
Urd intake
Spec u headers
Modified spec u exhaust
70mm throttle body
Ratiotek valvebody Kit

just installed a ucon ems, 61lb injectors, and a solid blower coupler

Ordered a Roush tensioner last night and have a belt wrap mod that needs to go on. Engine monitoring is done via aem fuel safe.

Next motor purchase is a csf radiator, cbr trans cooler, and to build a catch can

 

All of that looks good and sounds solid! I would had went HPTuners though which would negate the need for the AEM fuel safe and UCON.

 

I’m only running the fuelsafe as a gauge. My personal opinion is it’s silly to own a non-factory forced induction vehicle without a proper wideband and boost gauge.

I’ve had the ucon since before ov tuned and the Tacoma hp tuner existed, but seeing as how I’m an 06 the ucon isn’t a bad option. It was also important for me to run the cam gears which were much harder to get without the ucon. Now you have cheap group buys for cam gears. Although I’d still be a little hesitant to purchase until they had been proven, a lot of guys forget that when apr first released their cam gears the material wasn’t right and they had premature wear issues. I just replaced my timing chain, oil pump, and water pump. I’d prefer not to have to redo anything for at least the next 100k (hopefully 200k like my originals lasted, so it’s not worth the savings on a product that hasn’t really seen any road testing.

I’m not trying to squeeze the most power out of the truck. I just want a smooth reliable power band. And to be honest would prefer to avoid dyno tuners if I can. Atleast till I found one I really trust. I would think if I’m lucky I could gain another 10-15 horsepower with a hp tuner, but it would have to be dyno tuned. I’ve owned/built boosted track vehicles for the last 16 years and I’ve blown up a few motors up on dyno’s.

Hp tuners look nice, but it’s only as good as person tuning it ( I haven’t looked into them a ton) but they seem similar to all the other software the rest of the automotive industry has used for years, nothing really groundbreaking.

 

I also know a lot of guys hate on the ucon, but at the moment how many guys are running hp tuners? 6 months ago everyone in this thread was saying OVtune was the greatest thing since sliced bread, and we saw how that went. Once hp tuners were around for a while I would consider a switch if it proved to be that much better.