XPOTRPR Minitruck (1986 Toyota Pickup)

I sure as fuck hope that's not the case. lol

It could be low, could be part of the guides down in there.. gasket.. why do I have a feeling this is going to turn into a project..lol

might need to hold off until I get the Taco back and tear into the mini. I'd probably knock out a bunch of other stuff while I'm at it.

 

I feel like this is accurate to my situation. It happens when the motor is still cold/cool, and has happened around the same corner a couple times. I'm thinking it might be a connection/wiring issue more than anything. Especially since I have a finicky parking brake light/switch as well. I have to sometimes mess with the parking brake to get the light to shut off.

From a search:

(1986 Toyota Truck oil light flickers) -

"Check the oil pressure with an actual gauge. The pressure warning light has the hot wire run straight to it. The ground for the light completes the circuit when oil pressure drops below a certain level. what sometimes happens is the wire running between the light and the sensor can become abraded and can short outas the motor vibrates it causes the light to flicker. Usually a bad oil pump or worn engine will cause the light to come on only at idle and when the engine is hot(oil is thinner as it gets hot) and not at higher rpm's and when cold. The common places to look for a shorting wire are in the engine compartment and also right behind the instrument panel (usually against the metal dash support). Sometimes you can simply move the wires around (wiggle) and get the light to not flicker. Oily wire with a break can let it ground out easier."

 

well fuck me.

Dipstick didnt even register at Low..

pulled the plug and it drained REAL quick.. supposed to take 4.5-5 qts. I definitely dont think that much came out. It was pretty damn dark too. I havent noticed any knock or anything. The Oil Pressure light issue just started happening yesterday/Monday. no visible leaks anywhere either. I'm going to change change the oil and filter, check it, and then have the shop next door tomorrow check the oil pressure with a gauge and go from there...

 

I’d stay away from the high mileage stuff. It has additives to make the seals swell which will in turn make them soft. Thusly leaks will develop that likely never would have.

 

I picked up some synthetic blend. I just opened it. I'll switch back to regular conventional next change.

 

I ran some in my 3rz Tacoma and it started leaking at both the front and rear mains. I went back to regular synthetic. It still leaks but not as bad. 6000 highway miles and it was down .5qt more or less. It’ll hold 5.7qts and I was able to make all the old oil fit in a 5qt jug to the top.

In my wife’s GX I accidentally ran some. I just changed it today after 2500miles and it left a strange film in the drain pan. Had an orange looking hue to it. It made me uneasy and I may change it next time sooner.

 

Ooooooh man. Lol. Poor little truck. It was hurtin!

It sounds soooo much better now. smooth. healthy. Damn this thing was abused before me. Im mad at myself for not checking up on it tho.. sorry little minitruck.

Sitting here letting it idle and it blows me away how different it sounds now. It must have been running on like a quart or two. No leaks.

 

That’s odd. I’ve had the exact opposite experience and love the synthetic blend stuff. None of my trucks that I have run it in have leaked a drop since.

 

Generally it's just good to fix any big-ish leaks, oil will only do so much. Reminds me that the front main on the 05 has been leaking more and more...

 

Bruh.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BxVW1k4gksO/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=sf1he55jiya3

 

Just got back from a drift event with my buddy Juan and his 1UZ 240. Makes me want to get the drift truck build going even sooner now. lol what a blast. I'm thinking the drop leafs and less block will help. I also plan to throw in a Detroit/True-Trac in the rear end. LCE header, EGR/Emissions delete, and short shifter. The front end suspension-wise, is pretty good to go already I think. it will definitely need a but more power and the rear end locked up. other than that.. from what time I have had rippin it around, it feels really light (2500lbs) and nimble. I can flick it around pretty easily as is. but then it looses tire speed and done. Im hopeful about it tho.

damn you Juan..

 

Regear while you have the diff out, it will give you more pep in your step

 

yeah thought about that as well.. we'll see.

 

Considering the House will provide the best ROI, Marry that girl! She's got a good head on her shoulders.

 

Goals..

Found this dude on YouTube.. has a few videos of his swap and some action videos as well. Thing gets down and is done so clean. Definitely makes me want to start gathering parts and info.

I love the 22r sticker on the engine cover. Lol

 

What engine is that? 3vz? 3vzfe?

 

1uz! Non-VVTI (earlier 1uz)

 

Dude has some killer swapped Yotas

https://www.youtube.com/user/yotarip/videos

he's got a few videos of the Minitruck running/in action too.

 

There's a local guy throwing one of those into his MK3 Supra. Can't wait to see his in person Sounds sick

 

I've seen that too! different guy, but yeah man.. especially after riding around in Juans 240sx with a 1uz in it.. my truck is about the same weight @ 2500lbs. it should rip! I know Collins Adapters makes bell housing adapters for W5x series transmissions too. it might be fairly simple considering..