3rd Gen ('19 TRD 4x4 Off Road MT) Brake Bleeding Override Issue

I recently installed + 2" stainless steel brake lines from Wheelers Offroad. Installation was straightforward however I ran into some challenges when attempting to bleed the brakes. Despite trying the standard brake bleeding procedure and a bleeder pump, I was unable to get a steady of brake fluid to come out of the bleeder valves. Afters hours of frustration I used my AAA tow for the year to bring the truck to my local Toyota dealer (who was surprise to see a car in service with 400 miles on it ). Apparently on my '19 TRD 4x4 Off Road MT an OBD2 scanner with interface is needed to disengage the rear brake solenoid and ABS to follow the brakes to be bled. Obviously this is a huge issue me if I ever need to bleed the brakes on the side of the trail so I am actively looking for a manually override...let me know if anyone knows of one.

 

Seriously, you now need a computer to bleed the brakes on these things. Just one more example of manufacturers over engineering things so their dealerships get service work. I like my ride but after reading a few things I'm not sure I'll keep it more than 2 or 3 years. There is something to be said for a older vehicle you can work on.

 

Is this for all 3rd gens or did it start with 2019?

 

interested to find out also

 

Turn the key on and depress the brake pedal and the electric pump pressurizes the system. Open bleeder valve and it will shoot out fluid in a constant stream. One and done

 

From my understanding this is correct. The pump primes with the ignition switch, let it prime and then open the bleeder, repeat if necessary. I havent done it yet but I've heard it lets out a decent amount, so keep an eye on fluid level before doing it.

 

OR’s have an electronic braking system

 

On the hydraulic brake booster(Pros and Offroads), you only need it to bleed the master cylinder; not necessary when bleeding the booster/accumulator or brake lines.

 

Tried this, didn't do anything.

 

How about if a brake line is damaged and needs to be replaced? Wouldn't there still be air in the line that needs to be bled?

 

Yes...

On the hydraulic-boosted models, the correct order for rear brakes is; booster/accumulator, master cylinder then brake lines.
Front brakes is; booster/accumulator, brake lines, then master cylinder.

 

Got it, but then is there another way to bleed the master cylinder solenoid without connecting to a Techstream? This seems like the snag for finishing a brake job when out of range of a dealership...

 

The solenoids that need to be activated reside in the master cylinder and receive their commands from the attached skid control ecu.

IMO, any kind of attempt at bypass is more trouble than it's worth. I'd just get Techstream or OBD tool.

 

Interesting...looks like Techsteam only runs on Windows and we will be carrying a Mac. Do you know specifically which type of OBD toll will be able to activate the master cylinder solenoids? I have a simple OBDII scanner but after discussing with my service department it seems like one with an interface that gives commands is required.

 

Just do a search on ABS scan tools and pick one that supports your truck. Prices are all over the place, depending on brand, features and what it's capable of doing.
Honestly, you can probably get Techstream, adapter and Windows laptop cheaper than a 'decent' scan tool. Not sure if you can run Techstream on a virtual machine; that might be an option, too.

 

Can you elaborate? Trying to understand what went wrong for you.

For others going through this (I also could not bleed the rear by traditional method after installing extended rear brake lines), follow the procedure @splitbolt posted above.

1. Key on
2. Depress brake pedal and hold
3. Open bleeder valve (fluid will be pumped automatically)
4. Close bleeder valve

 

Something like this looks like it would work if I need ABS scan functionality (as well as all other systems on the truck) especially since I will be running navigation and as many systems as possible through my RAM mounted iPad.

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I was by myself at this point so I did the following:
1. Key on
2. Depress brakes
3. Release brakes
4. Open bleeder valve with vacuum from brake bleeder pump

The result was the same as with the key off where there was only a small amount of fluid that came out of the bleeder valve with lots of bubbles.

 

Releasing brakes and vacuum pump?
Have you tried the method I posted?

 

I followed step 3 but I was by myself so I had to use a vacuum pump instead of holding the brake pedal down but this shouldn't make a difference if I open the valve under vacuum. It's just frustrating that the brakes can't be bled without an OBDII scanner with interface but good to know for future reference.

 

It does make a difference.