What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Tearing the front end apart for a rebuild. Is there a way to get the rear LCA bolts/tabs out without pulling the steering rack?

 

Always wanted one oh these coin holders.

 

Ouch!

 

I need to put mine on.

 

Right on. Wasnt sure how much slack I'd have to move it around once I unbolted it. I'll make sure to support it with the jack once I do though.

 

Also remove the bolt holding the lines to the frame on the engine side of the frame, driver side. It will allow the rack to slide out a little farther, giving you enough room to pull the bolt.

 

Awesome. I completely forgot I have the bushings for the rack to change anyway. So I can do it all at the same time. Thanks for the help guys!

 

Ha. That's when I got hooked on them. Growing up working on my dirt bikes. Those side case screws always wanted to strip!

 

I know you know you want another one...

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/tacoma-coin-holder-oem.610115/#post-20643194

 

I have one, it doesn't hold coins very well..but it's cool to have.

 

Unbolt it, but you shouldn't have to remove it completely. Mine gave us enough wiggle room to get the bolts out. Check out Timmy Tool Man's LCA bushing video on YouTube.

 

Alternator brushes replaced, new coils on all plugs, all new vacuum hoses, and a new muffler. Runs so smooth now, and doesn't sound broken.

 

I’ve had mine laying around for a for a few months. I’m glad I got it done today.

 

I think they were just rubbing at the bottom where the liner sticks out. Here it is with wheels straight, it only rubbed coming into or out of the driveway, have not done any wheeling with the new setup.

I see it now, that's what I did. I had a problem getting the liner to lay flat where the step is in the firewall. I made a little tab that bolts in the mud flap hole to hold it a bit flatter.
Did you have to drill a hole in your line for that lower inner clip? You can see I have the he for the clip in the body but not in the liner, I might have to flatten and stretch the liner to make it fit.

 

Need to free up the drum on one side on my fathers old truck; adjuster is frozen solid. Hope the aftermarket parts kit works OK. I don't think the drum has ever been off in 21 years...

 

Yep, I had to make another hole in my liner. I also ended up using a hammer on the bulge/step in the firewall so I could push everything back another inch or so. May be different for you though - I'm sure wheel selection, tire selection, all play a roll.

 

How much rubbing do you have with your current setup? I am looking to go with a different wheel/tire combination the next go around. Pretty much in the same boat you were in, SCS F5's with 3.5" backspacing and 285/75R16's, will be going to 4Runner rims and 255/85R16's.

 

I have no rubbing on the fender at all with my current setup. I also don't rub on the frame at all with my current setup. I do however rub on my ADS resis at nearly-full-lock, which are attached to the frame and thus stick out about 3" from it.

Covered the results with the new wheel setup here: Rig Review: Anza-Borrego & Ruining Around in Utah - What worked and what didn't?

If you don't have resis there, the 4Runner wheels are great from a rubbing/mud perspective.

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I should add - I've also already talked to ADS about this, and we've hatched a plan to fix it when I do my first rebuild and revalve this winter. Can't afford the down time right now, and the rubbing isn't terrible/doing any real harm since it's only at full lock and I can just avoid that most of the time .

 

Problem solved

 

Yes, .

jerk.

So here's the dirty little secret. You're running what ADS considers a 4Runner kit - or at least what they sell as such. So, I'm getting the bracket, elbow, and shorter hose when we're done our big trip this year. Still TBD who is doing the work - first re-valve is free from them, or I can do it (and learn). Tough decision for me...

...anyway, I wish I had the 4Runner kit.