Ontario BS Thread

Are you in aviation? When this stuff "expires" at work it disappears so fast. All the guys swear by it. One guy drives an 89 Cavalier, been winter driven since new and has basically no rust. Its impressive.

 

Used to work in Aerospace and Automotive many moons ago. First full time job out of school was as in Eng at a truck bumper stamping and plating plant. All the acids used to plate bumpers taught me a lot about corrosion. Unprotected stuff there was gone in weeks. Improperly protected stuff was gone in months.

Friend of mine used to work in Aviation up north actually. Can't remember the name of the company but they used to put pods on planes for surveying and research.

Everyone who uses it loves it.

Won't hurt your paint, if you get some on it just wash it off with soap and water.

Like the Frank's Hot Sauce for your truck.

 

Just spray Krown in the frame every year. Don't need anything else.

If I remember correctly, new frame comes with new LCAs? I would pull the LCA cam bolts out and grease the shanks, to prevent them from seizing in the LCA bushings a few years from now... assuming you plan to keep your truck that long.

Based on what I see with 1st gens and early 2nd gens, even when the frame got so rusted that it breaks in half on the lift, the body looks pristine. IMO there's no need to spray the inside of the rocker panels.

 

ppfffftttt



Id rather just not have rust in 20 years.

 

Sound like perfect candidates for a tube chassis

 

I've seen this truck for years sitting at the back of a used car dealer. It's full of junk. Seems like an undignified end for it.

 

how much?

 

I have no idea. There was nothing written on the truck and I didn't stop into the office to ask.

 

Ontario Project truck?

 

I got a better option here
https://slo.craigslist.org/pts/d/arroyo-grande-new-2019-tacoma-perfect/6889222683.html

 

1st gen 4Runner right there my friend

 

PreRunner. Needs $$$$ for 4x4 conversion on top of everything else, though I suppose it's moot if Marlin dual-case is in the plans.

 

Sheared this bolt while trying to take my reciever off, I’ve never tapped a bolt before. Any suggestions ?

 

Cutting or threading oil when both drilling and tapping.

The brand Walter makes a gel thing that works incredible for tapping. Forget what it's called but it's a blue gel. Looks like that stuff you put on a sun burn.

Otherwise rigid threading oil works good too.

 

I assume you don't have torches.

Center-punch the center of the old bolt. Give it a good couple of whacks.

Blast it with penetrating oil.

Use a LH drill bit (if it is a blind hole, RH bit if not a blind hole) (if you buy the cheap screw x-tractor set from Canadian Tire it comes with LH bits or good tool supply places have them).

Use a small bit to get the center punch hole deeper (~1/4") use lots of cutting oil and keep it going straight down the center of the bolt.

Use a bit about 1/2 to 2/3 size of the bolt and drill the rest of the way through the bolt. IF you a REAL lucky the bolt will move or back out as you are drilling.

If it has not come out yet will then just use the drill bit sized for your tap and it will be easy to drill trough with most of the old bolt gone now, lots of cutting oil.

Tap away...

Keep your eyes on Kijiji for a small torch set.

 

Thank you very much, I’m going to have to go and buy the drill bit and removal bits. What’s the difference between a blind hole and non blind hole? If I use penetrating oil and a torch will the oil catch fire?


I’m curious if the new frame comes with the bracket that my bolt sheared into

 

Blind hole is one that has a bottom. Like in a cylinder head.
If you can see the other end of the bolt and it's all rusty you don't want to use LH bits.
Use RH (standard) as you want the bolt to go forward and get pushed through.

Wipe off the excess oil before you go firing up a torch. Or don't, and use more oil and collect insurance then the problem kinda fixes itself...

Is that asphalt undercoating on your truck?
Uh Oh, if you are using a torch heat up and scrape that shit away from where you are working, not only does it burn very well but it drips while it is burning...
Don't want a flaming tar drip landing on an eyebrow or a nipple.
Keep wet rags handy.

Then after you get that bolt out consider oil spraying your truck, rubbery/asphalt coatings work for a couple years then accelerate corrosion by holding dirty water in next to the frame.

 

Finally got er done, just need something other than lt tires now

 

Ahh more pics, yeah you may be able to get some vice grips on the end of that bolt and reef 'er out from the back.

Penetration oil and/or a torch will improve the odds.

Otherwise... drill time.

 

This is the undercoating from Toyota