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Should I replace the heater core preventatively

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by twblanset, May 18, 2019.

  1. May 18, 2019 at 4:01 PM
    #1
    twblanset

    twblanset [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So I'm about to do a big service including new hoses, new radiator, new clamps, new water pump, new therm. plus a bunch of other stuff and I was thinking about replacing the heater core at the same time, even though it's not leaking. But I looked around and couldn't find anyone that had one fail. The truck has 225k miles on it.
    Is it worth it to replace it? Or is this not a part that fails on Tacos? Anybody have one leak?
    Thanks, Todd
     
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  2. May 18, 2019 at 4:11 PM
    #2
    MikeWH

    MikeWH Well-Known Member

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    It's a ton of work to get to that. I would only replace preventively if you were in that far. Better off to spend the time on coolant flush/replacement. I've seen very few failure of the core. The hot water valve seems to go out more often, might be worth replacing it.
     
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  3. May 18, 2019 at 4:16 PM
    #3
    CS_AR

    CS_AR Well-Known Member

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    ^^^ This..

    Unless you are a glutton for punishment. Here's a video of the process.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mSM3OyeMlWg
     
  4. May 18, 2019 at 4:28 PM
    #4
    1997tacomav6

    1997tacomav6 V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger,Haltech, 800k

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    V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger, 56mm pulley, methanol injected Haltech ECU, AC Tvs1320 supercharger,(MUST DO) every 125,000- 150,000 needs rebuild Projector headlights HID 5 speed manual Amsoil for all drive train Smaller 56mm custom pulley, (MUST DO) 2004 DESNO fuel injectors, zero ping ping, 2004 side door mirrors Dick Cepek Rims, Michelin tires LTX, ATM Pathfinders Dynopro ATM ( that last 100,000 miles) Now running Dynopro ATM mud and snow tires KN cold air intake Cat back dual exhaust with ss exhaust tip, Raised exhaust tail pipe to 2" below body line Optima*dry cell battery,red top Alpine sirius radio, 200 watt amp, focal is165 split door pod speakers Focal door speakers Subwoffer behind seat Viper alarm, Electric Locks Dark tinted windows, bucket seats corbeau lg1 Tacoma Rubber floor mats TRD fender extenders, Bilstien shocks, King shocks JBA UCA trailer iv hitch, electric brake control, Drilled slotted brakes, High carbon steel (MUST DO) EBS green stuff 7000 series pads(MUST DO) TRD engine oil cap TRD stick shift, Marlin crawl shift kit. Rear sliding window 2002 4Runner functional hood scoop cut into Tacoma hood, 4Runner dual overhead map light Gentex Auto dim + Compass + Temp, garage,rearview mirror Snow Methonal kit stage 2 Custom 3 core aluminum radiator Linex bed liner Haltech stand alone ECU, Intake supercharger gauge. Stainless steel brake lines, Custom leather wrapped steering wheel, Haltech stand-alone ECU,
    NO WAY, mine is 22 years old and almost 600,000 miles of water though it and still good.

    The heater water valve on the firewall actually will rot from the inside out.
    It’s plastic and falls apart in time, that I would replace and the two hoses.

    Just be careful removing the hoses from the heater core brass lines, they tend to bend easily.
    Best the use a razor and cut the hoses length wise then peel off
     
    Last edited: May 18, 2019
    cruxofthebisquit, Pervy and CS_AR like this.
  5. May 18, 2019 at 4:32 PM
    #5
    Philrab

    Philrab Curator of useless knowledge

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    Unless you have the dash apart and can literally wrap your hands around it, or you want to hate yourself, leave it be. I’ve had several fairly high mileage cars with no heater core issues, and I’d never recommend replacing one that wasn’t leaking.

    Unless you want to hate yourself.
     
  6. May 18, 2019 at 5:04 PM
    #6
    CS_AR

    CS_AR Well-Known Member

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    Everything but the driveshaft. B03A - 410
    Very good advice.
     
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  7. May 18, 2019 at 5:47 PM
    #7
    bagleboy

    bagleboy Well-Known Member

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    Have you had any boil over issues that might make it suspect? Talking About when pressure significantly exceeds cap rating not normal coolant transfer to/from reservoir due to expansion. If the radiator has ever plugged it's not unlikely that the core might have as well since they're similar parts of a single system. The cap only limits pressure at the cap where it gets released. Pressure is higher at the heat source, a lot higher if youve exceeded the boil limit of the coolant.
     
  8. May 18, 2019 at 5:54 PM
    #8
    1997tacomav6

    1997tacomav6 V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger,Haltech, 800k

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    If your talking about the heater valve, no.

    My. Heater hoses were 22 years old so I decided to replace them when the supercharger was off, easy access.

    I tried to get the hoses off the heater valve and the whole plastic valve literally crumbled into a dozen pieces where the hose was connected.

    The whole valve was literally just waiting to explode
     
  9. May 18, 2019 at 6:02 PM
    #9
    bagleboy

    bagleboy Well-Known Member

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    It's supposed to be a low pressure system with the cap being the limiter but things sometimes fail at the weakest point and ignore the safety valve. If you're willing to go to the trouble, remove it, give it a job well done pat, and install a new one and hope the quality is still there. Either way, it seems a bit of a crap shoot these days.
     
  10. May 18, 2019 at 6:08 PM
    #10
    CS_AR

    CS_AR Well-Known Member

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    Everything but the driveshaft. B03A - 410
    The control valve is $103 at McGeorge.
     
  11. May 18, 2019 at 10:43 PM
    #11
    wooley1987

    wooley1987 Member

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    DO NOT REPLACE FOR NO REASON! I just replaced the heater core in my 98 Tacoma today and it was a real MFer! I had the engine replaced by some shade tree mechanics back in 2015. While trying to get the hoses loose, they cracked the heater core where the tubing enters the core. I have had it bypassed for several years, but I have recently been reviving the old truck and decided to change it. It took me every bit of 8 hours of diligent work. You will have no reason to be that far into your dash unless your core is leaking or stopped up. Toyota started with the heater core and built the rest of the truck around it!tacoma.jpg tacoma 1.jpg
     
  12. May 19, 2019 at 1:11 AM
    #12
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    Maybe if you were also doing the EVAP and had every thing pulled apart.
     
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  13. May 19, 2019 at 4:49 AM
    #13
    CS_AR

    CS_AR Well-Known Member

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    Does replacing the Evaporator require a complete dash removal like we see in the picture or can it be done by removing and working behind the glove box?
     
  14. May 19, 2019 at 5:16 AM
    #14
    hubcapsc

    hubcapsc Un-Known Stranger

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    What does Toyota call a "heater core" in the fiche?

    When I first brought it home, my truck required a very expensive thing
    (87150-04060) replaced behind the dashboard... it didn't involve
    coolant leaking or steaming into the cab, but only the air conditioning
    worked, and turning dashboard knobs from cold to hot or redirecting
    air to different vents including blowing air up onto the windshield (defrost)
    didn't work. 87150-04060 is a "radiator assy, heater".

    -Mike
     
  15. May 19, 2019 at 6:31 AM
    #15
    twblanset

    twblanset [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Wow. That's a universal NO. Thanks for the advice everybody. I'm gonna skip it but I'll check out the control valve.
     
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  16. May 19, 2019 at 6:49 AM
    #16
    CS_AR

    CS_AR Well-Known Member

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    Everything but the driveshaft. B03A - 410
    +1 on the control valve. I'm starting a major refresh project also.
     
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  17. May 19, 2019 at 6:50 AM
    #17
    Wsidr1

    Wsidr1 Well-Known Member

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    That's it. They replaced your heater core.
     
  18. May 19, 2019 at 7:00 AM
    #18
    1997tacomav6

    1997tacomav6 V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger,Haltech, 800k

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    I was actually surprised that the complete valve is made of plastic and was total unaware that it was
    on the edge of totally crumbling until I did the hose replacement.
    But I do have more miles than most on my valve.
     
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  19. May 19, 2019 at 8:05 AM
    #19
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 mw survivor

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    off-topic (but quasi related) as my mind just flashed back to deep stored memories
    was working as a JiffyLube tech in my late teens (early '90s)
    a car (don't recall what kind) came in for service during the hot summer
    once we opened the hood that plastic reservoir was doing the bust-a-boogaloo all over the place (liquid inside was actually boiling)

    that is all i can recall at this time, but soon after that they started making us wear face shields and protective hand/arm wear whenever we opened a radiator cap (while engine was running and no pressure in upper radiator hose)
     
  20. May 19, 2019 at 8:56 AM
    #20
    wooley1987

    wooley1987 Member

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    I don’t know for sure, but I would guess you have to pull the entire dash. The heater core is inside the assembly box pictured in my original reply. That box is behind the radio. The evaporator is behind the glove box, but it is connected in line with the heater core box and all of the ventilation. It might be possible to get to it without removing the entire dash, but it’s still going to be a job!
     
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