Anything welding

Leigh valley abbrasives >>>>



Alsoooo building some make shift fire pits to try and make a couple bucks on. Using 100% scrap metal. This is a rough beginning

 

Not as bad as I thought. The cost of a 4x8 sheet of 3/16" went down $20 from when I got a quote in February. DOM tube stayed the same though.

 

Ive had this one for a few years now and its worked just fine for the typical "cheap Chinese" vice. its nothing fancy but works fine for what it is.

$84 Yost Vises 465 Combination Vise | 6.5" Jaw Width Heavy-Duty Utility Pipe and Bench Vise |Secure Grip with Swivel Base| Made with Cast Iron and Steel U Channel Bar | Blue

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009AGG4DW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Definitely check locally for older vices though. Depending on your area and how hard you look you can find some awesome older ones that just need a bit of TLC. Sadly my area has a few collectors and people who want way to much for them lol

 

I never understood why people collect and restore vices. Its a vice FFS, you beat on it with hammers, gouge it with grinders and get weld spatter on it. To each their own i guess.

 

not my thing either outside of collecting different purpose vices. like having a 4",6",8" deep jaw, not deep, ect. But yeah not my thing to just go around collecting a ton of them

 

It is cheaper then collecting women and restoring them

Because the older Vices Are far better then most of the Junk sold today.

Might be if you never had a good vise you never know.

Kinda like Horse Power if you never owned a street Vehicle over 400 Horse Power you don`t mine your 120 horse power truck

 

Do you not figure prep time in cost ??

Not bad building stuff for yourself .

Then there is a big difference in left overs and scrap the way I look at things

 

I have two old Wilton vices at home, still dont see the point in restoring them as they work fine.

I have a 500hp truck and would have no problem with a 240hp truck.

I get it, people need hobbies but vice restoration just seems so odd.

 

To practice it mostly since I was much weaker at it than 6013, and all I bought was 3/32 and 1/8 versions of both 6011 and 6013 since I had no way to store 7018 AC rods correctly.

 

Sticking it isn't a bad idea. Didn't even think of that. I'll pick some up this weekend. But still no harm in learning it all, no? I know for all the stuff I'll be building I will likely be sticking to 6013 since I am working with 1/8" flat stock and angle. I do want to grab the 7018 and see which puts out more heat. The 6013 I was using was already severely warping the metal, I worry 7018 will be worse. All the things I am building will have a tight fit up to begin with.

 

Prep consumables are free from work and time... I’d be sitting on my ass if I wasn’t doing this so I don’t count time lol.

 

Pretty cool looking. I have an idea for you to make it work better, and very inexpensive upgrade.
Use a hole saw to make three holes in each end. Cut some galvanized pipe (old conduit, water pipe, etc) and slide them in from the end. It makes a great grate to hold the wood, or you can use it to make a rack for cooking. Also add air inlets below that on each end.

I actually do this for my Dad's trash burning barrel. Yeah, in Indiana,some old people still like burning their paper trash...

 

I actually cut some holes in it yesterday just for looks and weight savings

 

Speed holes?

 

ALL THE HOLES

 

Picked up some 7014 1/8” to give it a go at the local supply shop.

 

Scab plates for sliders, on the kits you can buy I am seeing plug weld holes on all of them. Are plug welds necessary for the size of these scab plates? I have the materially to make my own plates, but I don't know how motivated I am drill 32 holes in them if they aren't really needed (I currently only have a hand drill).

Also, looking at making my own for rear frame reinforcement. In this scenario I have seen some with plug weld holes and some without.

Whats everyone thoughts?

Much appreciated.

 

I would rather do plug welds. Not as much heat introduction to the frame as if you did full welds.

For that matter, 70S welding wire has a tensil strength if 70,000 lbs/ inch.

2, 1 inch welds per side of each plate will give you all the strength you need, provided you trust your welds.

Good question.

Thinking about it some more, I see no real difference. Lose the holes and save some time if you know your welds.

 

Trying to work on being able to do thin stainless without warping it. It's tricky.

 

Interesting. Seeing how our frames are so prone to rust, would you be worried about water intrusion between the plate and frame?