Anyone reach high miles on 2TR fe using 0w20 oil?

Sorry, but I have to ask. I have done a lot of research into oil and have read a lot of threads here, but no one ever mentions oil weight when discussing these high mileage tacomas.
Also, UOA's are rare for this engine. I did see one recently that showed oil almost like new after 10,000 miles with Mobil 1 0w20 EP; 7 ppm iron and everything else <1. This is crazy good. Is this typical? Would anyone like to post their UOA's here?

 

Probably not going to find many who have high mileage on strictly 0w20, considering the change over has been relatively recent. Even more recent the mileage interval was increased to 10k.

 

"relatively recent"... huh? Its been around 10 years. I'm at 150,000 km on 0w20, 6 years into ownership.

 

im sitting on 100k miles using only the 0w20. I don't have any numbers or analysis stuff, but she runs like a top still.

 

0w-20 has technically been around for that long as an optional oil, but it didn't become the exclusive oil for the 2TR-FE until 2011+. 6 years is not a very long time for a great amount of "high mileage" trucks to be on the road.

Folks with <2011 trucks who ran 0w-20 exclusively from early ownership would be in a minority ... if not an outlier.

Admittedly, "high mileage" is a bit ambiguous ... but I take it to mean at least 250k miles (the published service life).

 

I've run 5W-30 Mobil 1 Synthetic for most of the engines life. Recently I have switched to 0W-40 Mobil 1 Synthetic Euro Spec and the engine has been smoother and quieter. 0W-40 is only a little more viscous than a 5W-30 but still less viscous compared to a 10W-30.
The change in oil viscosity from Toyota was geared around CAFE laws not longevity. Other countries recommend 5W-30 until 90* F then they call for a thicker viscosity.

In no way am I saying to run a thicker viscosity than 5W-30. I'm just stating what I have read on different FSM's.

For long life I'd recommend a quality synthetic 5W-30 meeting current API specs. 5W-20 has been used by many OEM's for years with no issues but I'd still opt for a little more film strength of a 5W-30.

 

I've been running 0w-20 but after a few trips through the mountains with it floored for what seems to be days at a time, and the addition of a camper trailer, I'm going to switch to 5w-30 for this very reason.

 

132k on 0w-20

 

I have a 2004. I run 10-30 in it and it gets cold here in Wyoming. I would never run a 0-20 in anything unless I lived inland in some place like Alaska. Or North Dakota in the winter. Thin oils are for CAFE standards I may switch to 0-40 some day once I get up over 250,000 miles. If I lived where it gets really hot, like Phoenix, AZ I'd be running a 0-40, a 5-40 or the 10-30 and possible a 15-40. I do run a 100% synthetic and get regular oil analysis done at every change.

 

I have 200k on mine. 180k or so on 0w-20. the rest on 0w or 5w-30 depending on time of year.

 

I didn't realize that oil film strength is determined by viscosity.

 

336782 miles on 2012 change oil every 3500 miles

 

Every 10k? Should I not bother with the 5k recommended in the manual for my '15?

 

I have my oil analyzed every change. I've been doing that since I bought it at 119,000 miles when I switched from Pennzoil Dino to Mobil 1 5-30 and then to Amsoil Signature 10-30.

No, you shouldn't just run 10,000 mile intervals unless the manufacturer says so. Even then, you have to consider usage and run a high quality oil. I use one of the best pure synthetics on the market and I worked up to 10,000 miles over the last 67,000 miles very gradually. Blackstone says I can go 12,000. I won't. I'm happy at doubling the factory interval on my 2004 2.7. I used Mobil 1 filters up until this last oil change. I now use Amsoil filters.

The whole reason I have done this is because crawling underneath the truck every 5000 miles is a PIA and we all know how messy the filter change can be. It was a miracle this last time though. didn't spill a drop. That's twice now. Where I live the oil change can also come at an inopportune time like in the middle off winter when its 20 degrees and there's a foot of snow on the ground for a month straight. This way I can always change it in the summer. Although I do now have access to a heated shop at a friends house.

It's the same reason I put Iridium plugs in 67,000 miles ago. Less time doing maintenance although I have considered going back to the stock copper plugs so I never have a problem with the plugs getting "sticky" in the cylinder head even though there is a coating on the threads to prevent that. I used a little anti-sieze on mine never the less and pulled them about 40,000 miles ago just to check them.

If you want to increase oil change intervals you have to get analysis done so you know how long you can run the oil and filters you use. 100% synthetics and fancy filters are a waste of money unless you can extend the intervals by at least twice. I can go longer than 10,000 but I like a "buffer zone"

 

I would suspect that a thicker oil would provide a barrier between metal parts that is more "shear stable". Not necessarily "thicker" since oil doesn't compress and there is only so much clearance between the parts. In this day and age many are led to believe that thin oil is superior to thicker oils. It depends on the climate you live in, whether your vehicle is subjected to "severe duty" like towing, extended idling, climbing grades constantly or off-roading. I do the extended idle in the winter, the up and down grades every day and mild off-roading. I use 75-110 in my diffs for the same reason. Constantly climbing up and down.

I'm just a "thicker" oil fan. I'll always run the thickest oil I can. We have posters on here from both camps whether they be thick or thin and we all get huge mileage out of these Taco's. It depends on "usage" though.

Clearly, if someone lives where it is warm or hot and their truck is towing up and down mountains a thicker oil is going to provide more film strength due to oil thinning at high temps. Then you have "coking" and sludge formation to deal with as well along with evaporation although a synthetic goes a long way to stop these problems.

P.S. I just edited this post since I CLEARLY had too much Southern Comfort when I posted it the first time. I stumbled back upon it and it read like a real shit-head wrote it. I'm quite embarrassed at how stupid the original was.

 

Dang son, mine is a 2010 and you have way more miles than me! You doing a lot of highway driving?

 

My wife and daughter both have cars that need to be jacked up to change the oil. That's a pita. With the Tacoma I just slide under, open the drain plug and take the dog for a walk. By the time we get back the oil is fullly drained. Large drain buckets make for clean floors.

 

I get that but draining the 2.7 is easy. It's the filter change that's a PIA. Especially when you have to do it in 20 degree weather with a 30 mph wind. I do have a shop to change my oil in now but why do it every 5000 miles when I don't have to?

 

The filter change is not so bad, relatively speaking. Other vehicles have oil filters in far worse locations and positions. Also helps if the filter wasn't installed by a gorilla during the previous service -- tight enough is tight enough.
I use the cardboard splash panel approach, just wedge a 6" x 10" piece up behind the filter and let it direct the filter drain into your pan. Keeps everything nice and tidy unless the wind is strong. Really, it's not so bad.

 

0W-20 is the recommended oil for the 4 cylinder 2.7L per Toyota. My owners manual states change every 5000mi which I did for 85,000 miles. But now per a Toyota bulletin it's now 10,000mi which I just started. Happy to see the 300,000mi + 2012 Tacoma entry above! I hope I have the same results.