What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Yes, a key from Walmart will work. But if all of your keys are worn out a new set of OEM keys will make things good again. I thought my lock cylinders were going out, but everything works perfectly with new keys.

I used my title because it has the vin number on it and provides proof of ownership. Toyota (or any dealership for that matter) is actually required to report that they cut keys for your vehicle. It gets put into a database in case someone makes keys for nefarious purposes.

 

That thing is sweet, how do you think it compares to this Infiniti box?

https://www.frys.com/product/964766...MI_4PAgPau4gIVbRitBh0TwQkSEAQYASABEgI3hfD_BwE

 

Best key I had was on my 86 toyota. Was a 306 bullet casing that had been notched and bolted to the key to basically extend the wing of the key the length of the bullet. If you've even been in an old toyota you know how odd the angle was with the key. The bullet made it super easy to just flip the key to start. Was great.

 

well I finally got around to replacing my clock spring, and installing a new to me steering wheel, to replace my old grungy looking one. Hopefully this will fix my air bag light on the dash. I'm going to try and get a friend of mine to clear the code. If not, then I'll drive is a 100 miles to see if it clears. Keep my fingers crossed. But I also have a replacement air bag, and controller. I'll keep replacing until the problem is solved. 1st pic is old, 2nd is newer to me. Color is a little off but it won't bother me one bit. Thanks to the TW user who sold me the parts.

 

I believe the fsm has instructions on resetting the airbag system without the Toyota diagnostic tool.

 

@Reh5108 I've tried searching through the FSM multiple times, and that is one pain in the ass to navigate or find what your looking for. but since I have to go out, shortly, my friend doesn't live too far from me.

 

Not sure, I’ve had Infiniti door speakers before they sounded good

I’m very happy with this 12”
I’d definitely get a 12” though. I had an 8 before and traded it for a 12”.

A 12 can do what a 10 can do, and a 10 can do what an 8 can do.

However an 8 struggles to do what a 10 can do, and a 10 struggles to do what a 12 can do.

So you can go one way but not the other!

better to have too much and not need it, then have too little and need more!

I also prefer sealed box over ported, and I like the 2ohm speaker a bit louder than 4ohm but people have their preferences

It really adds so much depth to music it’s really a great upgrade. And I’m not some drive around the parking lot with loud bass sorta guy lol it just adds a lot of depth and dimension to music

 

Ive been trying to narrow down exactly where my leafs are squeaking. Me and a friend traced down the culprit to be the passenger side leaf spring bushing on the shackle side. I ruled everything else out by spreading the leafs with a prydriver and getting some grease on the rubber pads. Hopefully gonna tackle that tomorrow and be left with some silent leaf springs.

Another horrendous noise started coming from the drivers leaf pack today though. Turns out the add a leaf I installed was either a tad too long, or the hole wasnt drilled where it shouldve been. The spring was scraping up against the clamp that holds the pack together. Easy fix with a cutoff wheel, and now that side is dead silent.

 

I've found that those clamps can also create a lot of knocking/thumping sounds if they're too tight, when I installed my AALs I overtightened them and they made a lot of noise. Apparently they shouldn't be too tight to allow the leafs to move naturally. There was an ARB document that I found that pointed it out

 

New lower ball joints and brakes... still have a suspension clunk so new upper ball joints are next!... the lower ball joints looked OG... 180k...

 

What kind of front coilovers do you run? If you have spherical bearings in the bottom of them, I got a lot of clunking from mine when they needed replacing.

Also make sure your LCA cam bolts are torqued to spec

 

Just replaced mine with 5100s (at 2.5in) a few months ago!

I’ll check the control arms soon!

 

Ah okay yeah you have bushings then instead of bearings. Definitely check the cam bolts, especially if you've had an alignment done recently and noticed the clunk afterward. Sometimes shops don't torque them to the required spec (don't have my torque sheet handy so I can't tell you what it is).

Also if the bushings in the LCA are in bad shape it can cause them to shift and clunk.

If the noise started happening after the 5100 install I'd go over the top and bottom bolts and make sure they're torqued as well.

 

visited bodyshop to have small nick near fuel tank door touchup paint, he said it doesn't look corrosive, not enough to warrant repaint of box
humidity not high enough for squeaky door syndrome diagnostics, was opening/closing like a champ
ran A/C on freeway, turned off when got onto residential streets, no noticeable rattle upon acceleration as has been occurring this season so far
the gremlins continue marching on for now...

 

Hmm... yeah, I noticed the clunk around the suspension install/alignment, but my lower bushings were blown on the old coil overs so likely couldn’t hear the clunk over that squeak. I asked the alignment guy to make sure I torqued all the bolts correctly and gave him the correct torques because I don’t trust my shitty torque wrench... didn’t tell him the torque for the cam bolts though just the top at lower bolts on the 5100.

 

yeah I'd give those cam bolts a double check then, if it happened after the new suspension went in then my money is on something with the new setup.

 

Installed some MB Quart component speakers in my front doors. Replaced my worn belt molding on both doors. Also put some sound deadening in doors and back wall of cab. Sounds better already.

 

Might have to pick one of these up. Not a bad idea

 

Did the mount come with it? Just bolt or velcro?

 

They honestly don't even need the bolts, I don't put them back in