What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

I changed my oil, finally got the whole belly skid mounted.
Did some truck stuff. Took a load to habitat for humanity.
And I stopped by discount.

 

usually a fresh lift and clunking is the sway bar if you still have it.

 

same.

 

Left this out and likely it... but I broke a bolt on the sway bar. Maybe I’ll just take it out. I don’t really wheel it yet but I also don’t take fast turns so idk

 

I took mine out for a bit on my Expos to see if it would get rid of the clunk I was having (before I realized it was the bushings), didn't notice any change one way or the other...but I put them back in for fear of not knowing if it would create problems later lol. Probably could have just left them off though yeah.

 

ah yeah I always forget to mention the sway bar because I ditched mine so long ago. Has a permanent lot in my parts graveyard next to the stock skid plate and other things of my truck's past.

 

They limit flex when the leafs want to separate and pull away from each other.

 

Makes sense, explains why mine made such a racket when I overtightened those bolts on my Dakars.

 

Maybe it'll rust slower now.

 

When my sway bar link started clunking, I could crawl behind the drivers tire and wiggle it by hand. Any movement in them means its time to replace. And the great part is you can do it with the truck on the ground still, just turn the wheel to give you more space.

 

How much of a PINTA was it getting the bed off?

 

Tried a new product named "Glisten PC" from the POR-15 company that is a clear coat designed for Aluminum wheels. It's advertised to be high-gloss, rock-hard, flexible and will never crack, chip, peel or yellow. Designed for brush or spray application. I used a brush for the sand cast aluminum intake manifold parts.

The guys at my local DuPont paint store recommended it to keep aluminum parts sealed so they won't tarnish. It is supposed to stand up to wheel heat without peeling. So I'm giving it a try. Time will tell how this will work out. I've tried many different clear products for aluminum without success. Most change the aluminum color to look like something that has been painted with aluminum paint or they yellow or peel. It dries to the touch in 1 hour. Though, it takes 3 to 4 days to fully cure.

Let's see how this goes before anyone else tries it. I like to run with a product for a while before making a recommendation.

Link to the product information.

https://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_...V0brACh2vHQwHEAQYAiABEgJ9bvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

Bed removal is simple 6 bolts fuel filler neck and brake light wire harness. I can now remove mine in less then 30 minutes

 

Just installed bilstein 5125s on the rear. Tomorrow im taking a leaf out of my springs, and installing bilstein 5100s with old man emu 2881 coils on the front.

 

Like the other guy said, not bad at all. my bolts were rusty so a cheater bar and a 6 point socket are helpful. Getting it back on the hardest part was wiggling it around to get the fuel filler back in it's spot.

 

Replaced the oil pickup tube gasket as part of the lower end reseal on the replacement engine.

 

just finished installing the starter with the parts @cynicalrider suggested. worked like a charm. started right up. big thanks to @cynicalrider and everyone else that chimed in. Saved big bucks avoiding the stealership.

 

Truck won’t start with supercharger. Battery at 12v, even tried isolating the truck battery and hooked the Mercedes up via jumper leads. 13.4 bolts at the battery harness.

Same result. Slow crank. Truck won't start. Cranks like the battery is dead.

Any ideas?

 

Bad connection between battery and starter, I'd guess.

 

That’s what @Empty_Lord said. I tried making my own starter ground by grounding the starter via the bellhousing bolt to an LCA bolt and it made no difference.

Just to reiterate it cranks slow even with the Mercedes hooked up making 13.8 volts.