HP Tuners for 2005-2015

You guessed it! The connections aren't the same. So I got a Tundra pig tail and Tacoma maf extension then cut an end off the extension and soldered them together + shrink wrap. I clearly did it wayyyy too long but my girlfriend says better too long than too short.

 

Lucky you.









On such an understanding girlfriend.

 

Back home to cell service.
Long post ahead. Sorry in advance.
So in order to make this work I ended up getting these parts:
Tundra maf sensor.
A Tundra connector pigtail from ballenger motorsports part# Conn-85788
Tacoma maf extension harness.
4" to 3.5" 45° elbow silicone coupler.
3.5" 45° silicone coupler.
3.5" straight silicone coupler
Two 6" aluminum intake tubings at 3.5" id
5/8" aluminum hose joiner
3.5 OD Slot Style MAF Mass Air Flow flange adapter for Honda Acura Nissan.

The 45° couplers needed to be trimmed down some to make them work on the space available. Where they meet is about a 2" long 3.5" tubing inside. I cut a slot out and 1/2" hole out of the other tubing for the vacuum line and to mount the Tundra style maf sensor. Then tig welded them on after cutting the 5/8" hose joiner in half. The wiring isn't direct for Tacoma to Tundra, it's 180° backward. I had to find diagrams of both to make them play nicely. Luckily the Tundra maf sensor has numbers 1-5 right on it which confirmed my diagrams.

Thanks to @Roostfactor for the Tundra maf calibration file. Him and myself have both measured Tundra intakes at 3.58" id. Since 3.58" tubing isn't readily available I ran the calibration file without modification to see how it would run on the 3.5" tubing. It does in fact run rich so next up will be to take the Tundra maf table and plug it into the equation @OVTune shared back on page 25. End result would be to take the tundra maf tables and multiply them by 0.95580 to make it play with aftermarket 3.5" tubing. I will test this out soon to confirm the numbers.

Interesting to note is that following the same equation when taking the Tacoma tables (3" tubing) and applying the formula to try and get it to match the factory tundra tables showed up to 7% difference in the formula number compared to the actual Tundra numbers. Because of this, I would suggest using the Tundra tables and not the Tacoma tables to get 3.5" tubing to work as it will be closer to right.
Cant think of anything else to add at this point. Will edit later as needed.



tundra maf tables

 

DOOOD, thats looking good!

Is the reasoning for using the tundra MAF because it can measure more airflow? Id figure the stock maf in a larger tube could measure more airflow just as easy. But it would make sense using the tundra maf as tables are already known for a larger tube.

 

Cant wait to adjust tuning for this. Yes, 300psi. Snow performance took great care of me on replacement of my pump failure.

 

The tundra MAF does not read more air. In fact MAFs don't actually "read" air at all.
both the tacoma and tundra MAF are just a 0-5v hotwire sensor. They do the same exact thing. The calibration in the ECU tells what the "air" reading is at a given voltage.

You can make a Tacoma MAF read whatever you want, or a Tundra maf read whatever you want, just by modifying the calibration (the table) in the ECU.

You could feed the ecu a fake voltage (lets say.. feed it a constant 2.5 volts) and the ECU takes that voltage > references the MAF scale, and says "hey this is 122 g/sec"


Whatever you guys do don't try to swap newer tundra or newer tacoma sensors. They are frequency based, not voltage.

 

This is true. The reason I went with the Tundra maf sensor is in the thinking that it was designed for a larger diameter tube. My thinking is I wouldn't want the working part of the sensor to be anywhere but the center of the tube for the most accurate reading (way to one side or on the edge I think would give inaccurate readings). So because the Tacoma sensor is a touch shorter, it isn't reading air as close to center of the tube as the Tundra sensor can. I have no idea if it actually make a difference. Also finding the weld in slot adapters was easier.

 

gotcha makes perfect sense.

 

She's a wise woman.

 

Which model pump is that and what will you be using it for? Is it on demand air or are you using an external tank? I'm planning to do OBA and haven't been able to decide what parts I want to use.

 

Tanks are a waste of time. Takes longer to fill and doesnt seem to help any airing up tires.

 

Arb makes a sweet dual unit that mounts behind the drivers bedside cubby hole. @crashnburn80 has one.

 

This with the ARB Twin:
https://expeditionessentials.com/products/toyota-tacoma-bedside-compressor-mount

 

hi all, i have actually read all 153 pages. no joke. i'm very interested in trying to get rid of the rev hang on the manual trans. I see @JustDSM maybe had some luck with using an automatic ECU and maybe switching off the decel fueling. i don't yet have the HPtuners module however i have tried a few different thing over the past few years to try and figure it out. one idea that i had, and i'm new at this so forgive me if it's a stupid question, but is it possible there might actually be different fuelling tables or even different throttle maps for different conditions? the reason i ask is because when the truck is cold (i'm from canada) there is literally zero rev hang with lots of engine braking ability while in open loop mode (as seen by a basic scan tool and a OBD-blutooth tool) however once it warms up the engine braking diminishes and rev hang starts pretty quickly as it transitions to closed loop. Also once warm, when releasing the throttle there is the rev hang... and then a quick drop in rpm as the fuel system status changes from closed loop to open loop, not just a lazy rpm drop. its a hang then a sharp drop. i noticed there is a third fuel system status as well, something along the lines of "open loop, return to idle" which blips for a split second between closed loop and open loop. is it possible there are more tables and maps to unlock? is this a strategy that is used with other manufacturers?

 

Hey Manual trans guys.

So, I've been staring at some of my logs and making a few changes here and there preparing for my first flash attempt.



It seems like the times when the rolling idle speed (causing rev hang) is way up, the timing is also way up. Now, I haven't come across any VSS / airflow tables that would account for this. But I did find this:



Originally set to 9 mph; My theory is that setting it way up there where I "never" drive will help / eliminate this issue.

Anyone played with this yet?

 

I don't have a manual, but I suggested this to a couple people previously and have heard that it doesn't help.

 

Still get a random p0300 and p219a when the intake air temp is really hot after a hot start. Still never seem to have heard or felt a misfire

 

That doesn’t even look like it has left the show room!

 

Mine's the

$323 CKMA12 On-Board Air Compressor High Performance 12 Volt for Air Locker Differentials and Tire Inflation

CKMA12 hi-output single. I got a good deal on it at the Overland Expo in Flag. Was looking at the twin, but it's nearly twice the price and all I'll be doing is airing up tires (33"s, moto and bike tires), filling the rear air bags with a quick shot to adjust pre-load pressure and have dreams of adding an air locker someday down the road. Happy with my DeWalt li-ion impact wrenches so no desire to run air tools, so my needs (and wallet) justified the smaller, cheaper single (and the zero dollar SAI bracket w/ homemade aluminum filler plate).