Anything welding

And is that pipe you're using?

 

Yes, schedule 40.

 

We do not have tubing readily available where I live, so chose to use what we have. I bought pipe dies from JD2 and it bends pretty good.

 

I understand what you’re saying for sure. But you have to think of industrial. No building is put together with 6010’s. No dozer bucket is 6010’d together. You can use it for those purposes but it’s way more prone to breaking.

 

Different requirements is all that means.

 

I see... A bender is still on my list, can't justify the expense just yet.

 

So worth it! I highly recommend the JD line. I have a JD32 that's electric/hydro and id never go back to air/hydro if I can help it..
I started with the rogue bender and wasn't a huge fan. I could never get consistent bends with it and the clamp block would never hold well so the tube would slip thus flattening the bends.

 

What are the couplings called and where can I get them?

 

They're called tube couplings and you can get them at the majority of the offroad supply companies.

Barnes 4wd
Ruffstuff
etc.

 

California Tool & Welding on State street

 

Good to know. I honestly feel like these will be strong enough for my purposes though, so we'll see. I always have chocks on hand when I push/pull the truck around so easy enough to stop it if it cracks. If I was going to be winching off this it would be a different story.

Damn that came out amazing! I love this concept.

 

Thank you!

 

Update:

Yesterday I decided to punish the new plasma cutter and try to surface any weaknesses. If it's going to fail, I'd prefer sooner rather than later.

I have a three foot piece of what I think may have been a barn trolley. I have a medium sized torch for my Acetylene rig and it would not even begin to cut this piece.

Long story short, using 40-50 amps of the 60 available, it took roughly 45 minutes of cutting time to get down to where two really small areas remained and a pry bar did the rest. I did split the cutting into two sessions with complete cool down, but that was mainly because the head on my old compressor was feeling really hot. Of course, there were a lot of stops and starts. I'd say 20 secs was longest continuous cut.

- never tripped duty/overload cutoff
- air coming from the exhaust fan was only slightly above outside temp
- electrode handle did get hot in the first session, but not second...maybe my usage pattern or weak ground?
- max cutting depth seemed to be about 3/4" with the standoff guide installed
- I don't agree with the advertising on "20mm single pass cutting power", but then I was already skeptical of that when I bought it. I'd say more like 15mm single pass unless cutting something fairly soft
- I did run 60A briefly, but I could feel the electrode handle heating pretty quickly, so I reduced amps. Maybe my air flow volume was to low...?

Fast enough for commercial work? No. Good enough for home use. Definitely. I will likely never need to cut anything this thick unless it's for an area farmer wanting a favor.



Not pretty, but it is cut.

Red circles show what was remaining when I pried it apart.

 

That definitely was a test. I don't think plasma cutter are really meant to be used for that thick of material.

 

Yes, they are available from a bunch of different vendors. Interlocking and non-interlocking tube clamps. I got mine from TMR Customs in Canada because they were the only ones machined to my pipe ID.

 

Thanks man! That means a lot. It kicked my ass.

 

I’m always watching this thread, it’s the bomb.

I’ve dumped too many hours into my front bumper without finishing it, so I opened up a new project to get some momentum. Started building a simpler rear one this weekend. I got the mounts put together and the top and back plate cut and cleaned.

I made the mounts out of some scrap 8” channel. The main section seems to be 3/16 and the ends are a bit thicker. I followed another guys lead, @Uphillshunter ?, on the clevis. It’s made from three layers, the mount and two extra plates and is just over 1/2”. The main body is 3/16 plate.

I’m planning to include a receiver tube hidden behind the license plate. I’ll need to find a hinge mechanism and some license plate lights.

I have a question about prepping the metal for paint. All of the metal I’m using is painted, rusted, and otherwise dirty. Im planning to shine up the exterior sections, but am wondering if I should bother for the interior. The metal I’m suing for the body just has surface rust. Could I just wire wheel it and treat it with phosphoric acid or should I grind that side as well?

Cheers and a salute to our veterans.

 

That's structural iron.

That iron will out last the truck. Wire wheel, paint and not think about it.

It might rust, but it will be surface rust. As long as there is no chance of the surface rust staining other parts of the truck, just do the basic.

 

that’s who I got my upper limit strap mounts from. They’re a solid company with good parts.

 

After having the cheapo freight tube notcher sitting around and collecting dust, I took the time today to bolt it to my work bench ( I welded it to a metal plate a while back) and tweak it to do better cuts by adding some washers Using the Lenox hole saws I think it's not bad considering I don't do production work. Opinions?