All Things Bikes and Tacos! (...and every vehicle imaginable)

I also ride with the seat pointed down. Lets me put more power down, because it puts my pelvis and low back in a better position, and it doesn't put pressure on my taint.

 

Anyone have any first hand experience pros/cons with any of the swingout extensions on their hitch tray racks?

Such as the Yakima backswing, kuat pivot, Thule access, etc.?

I’m considering adding one to my newly acquired rack now that I’m finding out the tailgate cannot be opened at all while the rack is install

I am aware they can act as a lever putting added pressure on the hitch, but I don’t plan on running multiple bikes. Just the solo.

 

Riding near Reno Nevada.

 

Just quoting this again because I'm at the point where I've HAD it with toobs AND this is a great write up that others might want to see again!

Now... I've gotten OS sealant, gorilla tape, stans valve stems and spare cores in the cart but now it's tire time... As I mentioned way back, I'm concerned that my tires are too swiss cheezed to try and seal up, so I'm gonna snatch up two new ones. I think my tires are still good but I have exceptionally low standards (only have just under 500 miles on them), but don't think they'll seal with all the thorn/pinch punctures already present. Is that silly? If it's not stupid, can somebody give me a basic ass breakdown on tires or just tell me what's good right now? I'm over 200lbs, ride like a dickhead (my line choice is just always go a bit faster and BULL DOZE) up and down mostly dry, rooty, semi gravel/rocky and thorny (not mega chunk) Texas trails. I'm trying to read up on all these different casings, tread patterns etc... and my head is spinning. Currently running Maxxis High Roller II 3c EXO Maxx Terra (whatever the hell that means(always flat)) and while constantly changing toobz (twice during yesterday's ride) they feel soft, leading me to believe I should get thicker rubber. PLS, somebody smarter than me, HALP!

This is my life now...

 

Going tubeless should solve most of your troubles, but maybe consider something like the Maxxis double down tires. Get a set of Minion DHF/DHR double down treads combined with tubeless and never worry about flats again.

All my mountain bikes are tubeless now, and I have not had a flat in years. I am super lazy about it too. I buy big bottles of Stans and measure them out into a collection of 2oz mini bottles since they pour thru the valve stem super clean and easy.

I always seat new tires on the wheel without sealant until the beads set, pull the core, pour a 2oz bottle of Stans, install core, air back up. I have done the technique of rolling the wheel all different directions after sealant, then I put on the bike and go ride.

Many different valve core tools, but I settled on the Park Tools VC-1. Only advice is buy several, I seem to misplace them from time to time so I am probably up to at least 3 floating around the truck, garage, or toolbox

 

@IllTrucko I think any good tubeless ready tire will be fine. Flat tires just don’t seem to be a thing for me or any of the people I ride with, and we ride a lot, varying conditions. The last two flats I can remember (one mine, one a friend’s) were major cuts ... one rock, one a 2” long deck screw I picked up on the road. That said, I really like Maxxis, currently running a DHF front and Aggressor rear, TR EXO but not the DD casing. My wife is pretty light and has had good luck with Schwalbe. One other thing, I have had really bad luck taping rims successfully, until a guy gave me a tip. After the rim is taped, immediately mount up a tire with a tube in it, pumped up to the max, and wait a day. The tube will press against the rim tape and remove any bubbles etc. Then remove the tire (one side only), pull the tube, throw in some Stan’s and pop the bead back on, and inflate. Never had problems since.

 

Whats the difference between the DHF and DHR (F and R for front and rear?)? Good info all around, thank you!

I dream of flats being a thing of the past...LOL. I've probably spent more on toobs already than I will on tires! Thanks for the tube tip, that makes sense!

 

Anyone had this happen to a tire before? Tire has about 200 miles on it, but what’s odd is that it didn’t look like this before my last ride. The last ride was only 12.5 miles, and a ride I’ve done several times before on these tires. It’s pretty rocky, but nothing crazy, moderate temps, etc. tires are DHR II 3C/EXO/TR.

 

Supposedly F is front and R is rear, though there’s some opinion that F is for Freeride, and heavier than the R, or Race tire. Around here, many folks run DHF front and rear, but I’ve heard good things about the DHR2, though for the rear only. I really like my new Aggressor on the rear.

 

https://www.pinkbike.com/video/501512/

Anyone here ever tow a freeride mountain biker into a huge ramp in their Taco?

 

I have these on my fuel ex7. I got them spring 2018 at REI and converted to tubeless. They held up pretty well during hot and dry summer, but provide mediocre traction in wet pnw fall/winter/spring season. Also they started sweating the sealant through sidewall, rear one is the worst. Still hold pressure for a few rides though.

 

JensonUSA had a sale on Maxxis Minion DHF DC/Exo/TR 2.3 tires for like $40/tire last week.

I think are normally $70/ea

 

What rack are you running? Are you talking you can’t open the tailgate with bikes on? I know with my Thule t2 pro I can lower the bikes and open the tailgate, just can’t drive around with it open

 

Rocky Mounts MonoRail Solo.

The tailgate cannot be lowered with the rack installed, period.

The problem has been resolved. Sold the rack

 

Bingo, but many people run dual DHF or dual DHR tires like someone already mentioned. I like the design of the DHF far more than the allegedly rear specific DHR.

Honestly you should try several different tires and find what you like. If you don't have several spare tires hanging in the garage, you need to.

Check out the Worldwide Cyclery youtube channel to find tire comparisons from the most common choices.

 

Haha simple solution

 

$20 lesson that I can share with others.

Bummer though. That fatal flaw (for me) aside, the MonoRail Solo seemed like a great little rack that had features most other single tray racks lack.

 

Simple... Maxxis DHF front, with the EXO+ casing. Rear, Aggressor, with the Double Down casing. I HATE mounting new tubeless tires. But (as dman said) the absolute best method I've found is to:
1. Tape (overlap 3" on both sides of the valve, clean the shit out of your rim with alcohol)
2. Throw a tube and tire on, inflate to 40 psi, let sit overnight.
3. Remove one side, pull the tube and install valve (without core)
4. Blast it (air compressor, compressor pump) and seat the other side
5. 3-4 oz of sealant (I like Muc-Off)
6. Install valve core, inflate to desired pressure. Formula for starting place is (body weight/7) +3 for rear. (Body weight/7) -1 for front.

With the EXO+ front and double down rear you won't pinch and have great feeling casings for your riding style and weight.

FWIW: I usually run DHF/DHR2 (shoulder season), or DHF/Aggressor (summer). I slashed a rear tire, and had a new front. So I swapped my old front to the back, and installed a new front. So, I'm now running DHF front and rear. They roll quick, have crazy good bite, but they're not great at cleaning tech climbs. I think I'll return to the DHR2 until it's dry and dusty, then back to Aggressors.

Yeah, normal rubber decomposition, also looks like a some good 'ol skidding and hard braking. When my front does it, time for a new tire. Rear, whatevs, just increases the party factor

 

What size bed do you have? How far do the bikes stick out the back? Do you have pictures of it?

 

Went looking for a lost tool and pump today. No luck... But still a fun ride.