Show off your aux fuse panels.

Also, the studs are 10-32 for those wires so use awg18 x 10-32 crimped ring connectors with heat shrink on them. The main cables will need crimped ring connectors to match the larger studs and your cable choice size.

 

I have the stuff for the little wires and I need to order the crimpers for the bigger gauge wire. I love new tool/toys.

 

I'll pay someone in the NY area to wire one up for me.. All pretty and stuff

 

I've gone through more than half of this thread and havent seen anyone mount their panel on the passenger side. Any particular reason for that? Being that I have a manual trans I would have to work around my clutch reservoir. There is a TON of room on the passenger side to do whatever you want.

Also, where is everyone getting there ignition on power from instead of using the constant from the battery? I would rather have a fail safe that allows everything to be on only when the key is in the on position

 

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Distance from the battery is one thing I can think of as far as driver vs. passenger side install... There were a couple of passenger side installs in this thread if I recall. Also firewall access comes to mind. Same with proximity to the cab fuse panel.

I am hooking up the switches that power the accessory relays to "keyed" power in the cab fuse box. That way nothing can turn on unless the key is in the "On" position - the exception might be the scene lights I plan to attach to the roof rack. I may run constant power to that switch for camping, tailgating, etc. Realizing that I run the risk of accidentally leaving them on but I don;t see that as a big issue.

 

Where exactly would you get the power from on the interior fuse box? I'm new to this whole auxilary setup. My wiring knowledge doesnt really go to far past car audio which is extremely simplistic in comparison

 

Using my meter I checked the fuses for "hot" fuses in the cab with the key off and then ruled them out. Then I turned the key on and tested the ones that were not hot with the key off to verify "power when on". Then I used a fuse tap.

I built a hybrid version of the DIY Bussman in the thread below - It was by far the most educational post I've read on TW. I used a fuse panel/relay/blue sea set up and pre-wired all the relays with weatherproof connections and a switch wiring harness similar to the one in the thread. I did not do the Bussman set up but what I have works well so far. All I have to do is run the accessory wires to the aux fuse box, add a male weatherproof connector and plug it in the the corresponding female relay plug (I labeled all with switch number and relay number). I then insert the appropriate fuse in the Blue Sea fuse box and I'm good to go! Switches are all pre-wired so no messing with those and if I want to change accessories all I have to to is remove the plug at the aux fuse box and run the new accessory wiring. I don't have to mess with the relay or switch wiring.

The only issue if a relay fails I'll have to redo that but I'm OK with that (for now). I may build a more traditional Bussman set up down the road but the good news there is that my switch wiring will work with either setup.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-build-and-install-a-bussmann-rtmr-fuse-relay-block.399454/

Highly recommend reading through that thread for a crash course on aux fuse panels. It was fun to build and I learned a ton! I was so happy when the first set of lights I hooked up lit right up! No messy wires in my engine bay and super easy to install/change new accessories.

Keep in mind that these are for lights and other lower amperage draw accessories - read up on AMP draw and what wiring is needed - it's VERY important if you don't want to torch your truck. You'll want to take a different approach for a winch or on board air - stuff like that. Personally I would have them on their own circuit with a dedicated breaker.

 

I understand going through a fuse and all but how can that supply enough power for the fuse block? I see all at minimum running 8 awg to the fuse block and an add a fuse would only be an 18 awg wire

 

I would not power a fuse block with anything other than the battery. To protect the truck and your acessories, power your switches thru the cab and use them to control power to the devices. Nothing can turn on if there’s no power to the switches. I used 4AWG wire for the battery to box connection then 12 for the relay to box wiring, and 18 for the switches. They have minimal draw so no risk there.

Read that thread I linked.... it’s a long read but worth it!

 

I went through the thread, it's extremely well detailed and laid out. So there is no way to get the power to things that wouldnt have a switch such as raptor lights?

 

You can use non-relay positions in the RTMR (fuse only). Those receive power from the positive buss bar, which in turn receives power based on how you connected it to your battery: if it's direct connect with no solenoid/relay/whatever to otherwise control the connection, then all fused accessories receive power constantly while relay accessories receive power when the relay is properly activated (which is usually done with a switch). You can use a beefier relay/solenoid to power the RTMR when the engine is on.

This is my understanding based on lurking in electrical/technical threads. Possible I am incorrect.

 

What gauge wires do you use for ground / power / general wiring?

What's the correct order for fuse/circuit breaker to Blue Sea Terminal Block?
Do I need a fuse to the Terminal Block?

I guess it's time to go through and clean up the wiring.

 

I suppose you could tap into the DTRLs or Headlights and switch them that way.

 

That is what I did. Just tapped my DTRL. Now my Raptors come on with my DTRL. Therefore they also automatically turn off when I turn the truck off.

 

The best way would be to connect those lights to the lights which you want them to come on with such as DRL's or headlights. Raptor lights are very low draw so the affect on that circuit would be insignificant. The downside is that you either need to use wire tha matches the awg of the rest of that circuit or install a fuse appropriate to the wire you use after the tap. If you want them on with no other lights you would need to tap an ignition only fuse for power.

 

If you have a 2nd Gen like me there should be a blank spot in the "in cab" fuse box. If I remember right its the middle row on the left side. That blank spot has post ignition power running to it. Just use a fuse tap to connect that to the switch side of the relay and you'll be golden.

 

May I ask what mounting plate you are using?

 

Hey Dart Frog....

My lic. plate is RosyBoa!

 

More details and pics here.