Ontario BS Thread

I went with RCI because I'm not Hardcore, and the legend of the rent was way past due. And I don't need to open my rear doors while I'm hung up on a rock.

 

Just saying.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-bolt-on-frame-plates-for-sliders.302192/

 

Wish i had known about that before i painstakingly measured out every hole and rivet then drilled everything with a hand drill

 

Can only imagine how painful that was.

But it’s been there lol. If you think your the first to go about it. Someone has probably done it on Tw lol

 

Was before i was a regular on here.
I just annoyed the hell out of @Joe23 asking opinions since i had never even seen rock sliders in person before

 

Yeah man, buy the 4wheel sliders, make the mounts, a little welding, paint.

 

just as easy as 1, 2, 3

 

good to know, good to have! Cheers!

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-bolt-on-frame-plates-for-sliders.302192/
FUCK YEAH I CAN PRINT THIS AT WORK


but wait, that's 2nd gen - i assume 2nd and 3rd have the same holes?

EDIT: aaaand printed

 

the only way to find out... I would say yes, it’s the same truck with better looks and performance

 

Definitely build them or have someone else weld it up for you. I built a set of bolt-ons as well. Go DOM tubing and you'll never have an issue with strength.

You just need to take the time to create the template for the frame rails.

 

that is super clean...

though atm, once i get the mounting plates cut and bent out, i'll see about what to do in terms of the design of the rails.

as Therby suggested, i could use a premade set from 4wheelparts.ca and weld those onto the mounting plates. and with my experience with welding is non-existent so i wouldn't really want to get into pipe cutting and what not right off that bat, maybe if it goes well and i get a better hand on it i can do a full fab. But atm it's mostly just a starting position for myself, something to get me going.


and thanks for the recommendation of using DOM tubing, it seems to be a common in the other bolt ons. being in Hamilton, i got access to every steel shop down here (I believe my Dad went to Beach Road steel) so it shouldn't be hard to find

 

Yeah, if you can figure out the mounts etc and buy the premade ones. Finding someone to weld a few things locally won’t be bad

 

I think I read somewhere once that Mobtown and a few others will sell all the parts and you can weld it up yourself, may save $$ and lead time...

Big advantage with the Mobtown design is how it wraps around the frame at the front and the back. After that I'd say 90% of all sliders out there are all 99% the same.

I don't understand why RCI and a few of the other guys have not clued into that. Some wrap at the front and middle but not at the back where you have the "longest lever" so need the most strength.

If you took the RCI or any of the other similar flat plate only designs and added a U channel that went under the frame to "wrap around the bottom" , weld to slider frame plate on the outside and beam clamps on the inside, you would not get the deflection at all (well the frame still flexes a bit).

Or added two bolt holes at the top and bottom at the back of the plate to stop the plate that is sandwiched to the frame from flexing. Or Two pieces of angle iron and two pieces of threaded rod and some nuts to clamp/sndwich it to the frame is another way for example.

Toyota changed the frame steel for te third gens (and a LOT of the Cab steel also to HSLA steel so don't weld the rockers and pillars on these trucks btw) the frames are high strength low carbon steel, I don't know which grade it is yet but I know they have to hot form it vs regular stamping process. Some grades of HS steel require pre-heating and controlled cooldown so they don't extremely warp or loose all their strength, lol, so weld on slider may not be a safe option for these trucks (just in case that option is on your plate).

DOM (Drawn Over Mandrel) is just regular tubing that has been "squished" into a smaller diameter, makes the steel denser and a little harder, rough working # is about 10-30% stronger than HREW tubing.

If your painting them yourself make sure you wire brush, sand or sandblast the black oxide coating on the steel, metal prep or etching primers don't eat into that stuff for good paint adhesion.

BTW properly designed bolt ons will be stronger than weld ons.

 

Pfft, you're from Hamtown...wtf do you know about steel eh?

 

So my tomato plants are coming along rather well

 

shipping to T9E 0Y2?

 

Only thing Hamilton taught me about steel was the manufacturing plants are an eyesore and the local fish, you would not dare eat.

 

I know a guy that used to have a little greenhouse of those... side walls were not clear but you could still kinda see through it, so he used to put red and green xmass ornaments on the plants and from the outside you would swear they were tomato plants... LOL

Might want to get a few fake green/red tomatos to hang on those so local teenagers might mistake them when peering over the fence at night in the fall.

Lol I'm still not used to the end of prohibition... Mind you in Hamilton ir really did not make much of a difference.. Lol

 

so basically like this?
with that template i got, i could theoretically extend the plate size and have it do the above

I took 4 structural steel classes for my Civil eng course, i'll throw the book at you

but yes, i have heard that it was different that the 2nd gen, but it's good to know to avoid welding (i wouldn't try it anyways)
And correctly designed bolts can in fact be stronger than welds yes, depending on use cases (also a fuck ton cheaper too)

also thanks for the heads up about the finishing of it.

10/10, instructions perfectly clear, sniffed etching fluid and paint.