Home Improvement Today?

Huh

Our code requires blocking at max 7' intervals for any floor joist or roof joist / rafter framing

 

The American Wood Council just says that an "adequately nailed subfloor" is good enough to eliminate bridging for anything less than a 2x12. Blocking still seems like a good idea to me.

 

I’d want blocking, even if not required. Not sure what part of MO you’re in but there’s actually some fairly significant localized seismic activity in the St. Louis part of the state that would definitely make me want blocking even more. I was actually just talking with a contractor a few days ago who does structural work who’s still repairing damage on houses from the big earthquake we had up here in November and one of the houses he’s doing had no blocking between the joists and they all rolled flat during the earthquake. Not exactly what you want happening

 

I am in Springfield so were a little bit further from the Mississippi and seismic activity.

Yes I agree. So are 6" walls and 12" joist centers haha. I called our local building inspector and he confirmed there is no required blocking. Now the question is how do I go about adding it with some slightly joists. Do I just custom cut each piece? Nail or screw?

 

Spent my entire weekend installing a french drain and repairing our rusted through sewer line that we found in the process. Approximately 60 cubic feet of dirt carried up the stairs and outside. 2 tons of gravel down through a make shift chute. Still need more and then concrete to follow.

 

Nailing details are on page 149 https://www.awc.org/pdf/codes-standards/publications/wfcm/AWC-WFCM2015-ViewOnly-1510.pdf

I'm not sure what the best route to go is. Ideally you would level things out before nailing it off, but you may end up chasing your tail if footings have settled. If things are already twisted and sagged, you may just be locking it into place.

 

We always bridge/block every 8’ or at mid span on anything over 8’.
Here’s a link to a discussion about it.
https://forums.jlconline.com/forums...-forums/rough-framing/30930-bridging-blocking

 

Custom cut for a snug fit , add subfloor adhesive to top of block before installation , use nails or rated screws like GRK R4

 

Recent projects around my place included a big @$$ barn door from the living room to the hallway, and we finally put in block fire pit in our flagstone sitting area.

 

Over the weekend we made a significant investment in our home... My wife feels it's an improvement to have a girl in the house now, our son was becoming to much for her. It should be worth it

 

So, I have this style of recessed light in the guest bathroom. I'd like to convert this to more of a traditional style with a glass bowl for the increased light output. How does one go about switching over to another style?

 

Congrats.

 

Turn off power, verify with non contact tester
Figure out what it’s attached to and unhook wiring and remove whole fixture
Put a block between rafters to which you’ll mount a metal light box or use one of the light boxes that have built in bridging/ blocking
Run wires into box with a romex connector and hang new light from box. Read up on making electrical connections.
Hopefully you can access from the attic or else you’re gonna be doing sheetrock cutting/repair lol

 

Spray foam completed , basement should be nice & toasty and draft free

 

Does the foam act as a vapor barrier as well in the basement?

 

Yes , at 2" thick (or more) , the 2lb foam is classified as a vapour barrier

 

Thanks. I have lots to do before i get to my basement, but I’ve started to gather information for when i do it.

 

You're welcome . Be aware though that this is 2lb foam and not 1/2lb foam . 1/2lb foam does not classify as a vapour barrier at least in our code

 

Got it. What kind of r value does the 2 lb, at 2” give?

 

Cured 2lb foam is approx R6 per inch