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1st gen tacoma loose steering

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Goran, Jun 5, 2019.

  1. Jun 6, 2019 at 6:41 AM
    #21
    FirstTimeFirstGen

    FirstTimeFirstGen Less active than most

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    Not enough to have a build thread.
    I didnt see anyone say it. Check your lower control arm bushings. @Fernando and I just had to do ours. And they can cause some serious steering issues if they're worn enough.

    Edit: check your uppers too. I dont think theyd have the same effect on your steering as the lowers, but couldnt hurt to take a peek.
     
  2. Jun 6, 2019 at 8:27 AM
    #22
    Goran

    Goran [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Is checking those just a visual thing or is there a good way to tell if they are worn or not?
     
  3. Jun 6, 2019 at 8:38 AM
    #23
    FirstTimeFirstGen

    FirstTimeFirstGen Less active than most

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    Not enough to have a build thread.
    Keep the wheels on the ground so theres steering resistance. Have someone steer back and forth (with the engine running) while you watch the lower control arms (watching underneath was the best view for me). If they move more than a little bit, they're toast. I'd recommend whitelines.

    Or pull the lower control arms and see if you can wiggle the bushings. If you can move them at all by hand, they're done. Mine and @Fernando's could be wiggled very easily. Especially the rear bushings because they get more stress put on them due to aftermarket bump stops.
     
    Last edited: Jun 6, 2019
  4. Jun 6, 2019 at 10:05 AM
    #24
    Wsidr1

    Wsidr1 Well-Known Member

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    Go here and enter your VIN. Look in Power Train/Chassis. Then section 4501 Steering Column and Shaft. Scroll down to parts diagram.
    https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/locate?c=Toyota

    Example:

    upload_2019-6-6_12-5-7.jpg
     
  5. Jun 6, 2019 at 10:14 AM
    #25
    Nevin

    Nevin Well-Known Member

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    Yea sounds right. I was scratching my head thinking poly maybe better. Have yet to tackle that job.
     
  6. Jun 7, 2019 at 6:01 AM
    #26
    1997tacomav6

    1997tacomav6 V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger,Haltech, 800k

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    97 reg cab, v6 5sp 300hp supercharged, Methonal Injection, 800,001 plus miles, Original Owner
    V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger, 56mm pulley, methanol injected Haltech ECU, AC Tvs1320 supercharger,(MUST DO) every 125,000- 150,000 needs rebuild Projector headlights HID 5 speed manual Amsoil for all drive train Smaller 56mm custom pulley, (MUST DO) 2004 DESNO fuel injectors, zero ping ping, 2004 side door mirrors Dick Cepek Rims, Michelin tires LTX, ATM Pathfinders Dynopro ATM ( that last 100,000 miles) Now running Dynopro ATM mud and snow tires KN cold air intake Cat back dual exhaust with ss exhaust tip, Raised exhaust tail pipe to 2" below body line Optima*dry cell battery,red top Alpine sirius radio, 200 watt amp, focal is165 split door pod speakers Focal door speakers Subwoffer behind seat Viper alarm, Electric Locks Dark tinted windows, bucket seats corbeau lg1 Tacoma Rubber floor mats TRD fender extenders, Bilstien shocks, King shocks JBA UCA trailer iv hitch, electric brake control, Drilled slotted brakes, High carbon steel (MUST DO) EBS green stuff 7000 series pads(MUST DO) TRD engine oil cap TRD stick shift, Marlin crawl shift kit. Rear sliding window 2002 4Runner functional hood scoop cut into Tacoma hood, 4Runner dual overhead map light Gentex Auto dim + Compass + Temp, garage,rearview mirror Snow Methonal kit stage 2 Custom 3 core aluminum radiator Linex bed liner Haltech stand alone ECU, Intake supercharger gauge. Stainless steel brake lines, Custom leather wrapped steering wheel, Haltech stand-alone ECU,
    Is it the steering wheel when you turn it left to right east and west or top to bottom, north an south?

    I had this problem but it was north to south and at higher speeds the wheel would jump 1/2”
    at every bump and shake terrible.

    My problem was the tilt steering mechanism was worn out and I replaced the entire steering column with a truck that had 100,000 miles on it, Toyota did not have the worn parts available anymore.

    Now the tilt mechanism is tight with zero play north to south
     
    Running Board Man and GQ7227 like this.
  7. Jun 7, 2019 at 7:59 AM
    #27
    Goran

    Goran [OP] Well-Known Member

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    east and west ( left to right ). I was thinking about grabbing a used steering column just to make sure nothing in mine is worn out.
     
    Running Board Man likes this.
  8. Jun 7, 2019 at 8:24 AM
    #28
    Kwikvette

    Kwikvette Well-Known Member Vendor

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    Partially read through some of the suggestions; I'd vote to check out the LCA bushings.

    I just replaced mine yesterday and after getting an alignment, my steering wheel feels a lot tighter. Vehicle does not wander off on the highway like it used to; granted I also replaced my LBJ's.
     
    FirstTimeFirstGen and GQ7227 like this.
  9. Jun 7, 2019 at 8:45 AM
    #29
    1997tacomav6

    1997tacomav6 V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger,Haltech, 800k

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    V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger, 56mm pulley, methanol injected Haltech ECU, AC Tvs1320 supercharger,(MUST DO) every 125,000- 150,000 needs rebuild Projector headlights HID 5 speed manual Amsoil for all drive train Smaller 56mm custom pulley, (MUST DO) 2004 DESNO fuel injectors, zero ping ping, 2004 side door mirrors Dick Cepek Rims, Michelin tires LTX, ATM Pathfinders Dynopro ATM ( that last 100,000 miles) Now running Dynopro ATM mud and snow tires KN cold air intake Cat back dual exhaust with ss exhaust tip, Raised exhaust tail pipe to 2" below body line Optima*dry cell battery,red top Alpine sirius radio, 200 watt amp, focal is165 split door pod speakers Focal door speakers Subwoffer behind seat Viper alarm, Electric Locks Dark tinted windows, bucket seats corbeau lg1 Tacoma Rubber floor mats TRD fender extenders, Bilstien shocks, King shocks JBA UCA trailer iv hitch, electric brake control, Drilled slotted brakes, High carbon steel (MUST DO) EBS green stuff 7000 series pads(MUST DO) TRD engine oil cap TRD stick shift, Marlin crawl shift kit. Rear sliding window 2002 4Runner functional hood scoop cut into Tacoma hood, 4Runner dual overhead map light Gentex Auto dim + Compass + Temp, garage,rearview mirror Snow Methonal kit stage 2 Custom 3 core aluminum radiator Linex bed liner Haltech stand alone ECU, Intake supercharger gauge. Stainless steel brake lines, Custom leather wrapped steering wheel, Haltech stand-alone ECU,
    I got a complete steering column with steering wheel and all the parts for $100 at the local scrap yard and the truck had a hundred thousand miles on it,
    This is a photo of my old one

    20190607_093302.jpg
     
    GQ7227 likes this.
  10. Jun 7, 2019 at 8:53 AM
    #30
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 mw survivor

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    309km east of Hazard ...the good life
    Vehicle:
    '97 black SR5 0g ~ MT @ 176k ...
    black woolWax, green IFC, borlaCB, custom Line-X PC drums, skid, nuts, hooks, 1/4 silver frame...
    i can only imagine what the freeway roads are like in other areas out there
    ... had an especially brutal winter here and every damned bridge expansion joint is a literal hazard at the posted speed limit in Numerous spots all around the inner city except the newly paved 3 lane 50 mile stretch to Lincoln
    feels like my truck is going airborne over some of them and probably putting extreme wear on the front parts, and now there is possibility I cannot get new OEM replacement for in the future if/when they fail
    this not good news :(
     
  11. Jun 8, 2019 at 1:43 AM
    #31
    ffirg

    ffirg Well-Known Member

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    I've been fighting the same problems as you for the last few years. I just replaced inner and outer tie rods and both LBJs. I have poly rack bushings already that were installed probably 5 years ago. Got a fresh alignment. Still wander all over the road. My passenger side tire has no play in it but the driver side has all kinds of play when grabbing on the right/left of the tire. Lots of loud clunking as well.

    I'm assuming this is steering rack related, maybe the guide needs to be replaced or re-tensioned. Tomorrow I'm going to try to check torque on all rack hardware and maybe retension the guide or pull it and see if it's worn out. I have the newer style guide.
     
    Running Board Man likes this.
  12. Jun 8, 2019 at 5:03 AM
    #32
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 mw survivor

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    309km east of Hazard ...the good life
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    '97 black SR5 0g ~ MT @ 176k ...
    black woolWax, green IFC, borlaCB, custom Line-X PC drums, skid, nuts, hooks, 1/4 silver frame...
    the steering components that @1997tacomav6 said he had to get salvaged in a couple posts prior
     
  13. Jun 8, 2019 at 7:39 AM
    #33
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 mw survivor

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    309km east of Hazard ...the good life
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    '97 black SR5 0g ~ MT @ 176k ...
    black woolWax, green IFC, borlaCB, custom Line-X PC drums, skid, nuts, hooks, 1/4 silver frame...
    wish i had a dash cam to show what shitroads i gotta maneuver at highway speed
     
  14. Jun 8, 2019 at 9:51 AM
    #34
    ffirg

    ffirg Well-Known Member

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    This might be a dumb question, but how does one tighten it? It’s not a hex bolt. It looks like it takes a giant allen key....
     
  15. Jun 8, 2019 at 1:04 PM
    #35
    ffirg

    ffirg Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I think I’ll end up using a threaded rod coupler but I’m just not sure what size I need yet. I just got everything buttoned up from changing a CV axle on one side plus both LBJs, wheel bearings, all tie rod ends, output shaft seals, and some other various things. I’m going to drive it around a while and listen for noises before I dig into the rack.
     
  16. Jun 8, 2019 at 6:03 PM
    #36
    coffeybean

    coffeybean Well-Known Member

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    Tundra Front disk brakes, Recarro bucket seats, the switchback blinker/running light mod, sound insulation and new speakers. 2023 - New Bilstein 4600s, new center bearing and clutch pack.
    Do the steering column tack weld mod. I just did this about two weeks ago and the difference is night and day. Took me and a helper (he had the welder) about 90 minutes start to finish.
     
  17. Jun 9, 2019 at 1:08 PM
    #37
    dj5hall

    dj5hall New Member

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    Hey guys, for what it’s worth, I had a lot of steering slop with my 2004 2.4l 2WD. I figured it was ball joints and/or tie rods too, plus it needed an alignment. So I took it to an honest alignment guy who said everything was tight, but suggested I replace the shocks before getting it aligned. So I put bought four KYB (Japanese made) shocks, installed them myself (fairly easy job) and guess what? No more slop! I still had the OEM shocks prior to the KYBs, at 128k miles. The truck sits higher and the steering feels great. Sometimes the simple solution ends up being the right one. At least it was in my case. Good luck!
     
  18. Jun 9, 2019 at 3:15 PM
    #38
    FirstTimeFirstGen

    FirstTimeFirstGen Less active than most

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    Not enough to have a build thread.
    So OP, what's the word? Find anything yet?
     
  19. Jun 13, 2019 at 11:31 AM
    #39
    Goran

    Goran [OP] Well-Known Member

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    For some reason i stopped getting notifications on this.
    I welded my steering column, although already having done the roll-pin, someone suggested that rolls pins might get loose causing slop.
    I'm looking into replacing the rubber rag-joint that connects the steering column to the rack and pinion. Just having trouble locating one.
    Ordered energy suspensions bushing kit.

    Also checking this weekend my Lower control arm bushings, they have 190k on them so they are probably due, i just don't wanna tackle that job yet.

    I will find this slop, if its the last thing i do!

    Edit: I also read that people have been shoving rubber in their rag-joints to eliminate the slop. Although its a band-aid, has anyone done this?
     
  20. Jun 14, 2019 at 11:56 AM
    #40
    Speakerboy

    Speakerboy Well-Known Member

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    Replying to follow this. I was looking into doing the roll pin myself.
     
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