What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

I worked in a body shop for 8 years. Complete paint jobs are the worst and do indeed have the lowest profit margin. A quality paint job will be $6k-$10k if you want bed removed, door jambs etc. The biggest problem is the warranty. Most shops warranty their work. If you don't clear the jambs, under hood etc, you have an area where the clear will start to peel back. In order to paint all that surface area, you have to prep it well too (which is time and $$). The shops that I worked at refused to do complete jobs. The way they "refused" to do the work was to charge much more (almost double) what they thought it would actually cost. What you are seeing is not uncommon for a quality shop.

 

Thanks @eon_blue!

 

Nope, especially not where he lives unless he has a friend. Minimum per wheel in the PHX area was 155 and most colors were more

 

Mine was $80 per

 

At $80 per wheel I'd have done it. I called every damn powder coat place in the valley of the sun. They were all expensive, and they didn't include blasting in those prices. I can't imagine it would get any more affordable in the PNW... Nothing ever does.

 

I called all over the Central Valley CA and the cheapest I could find was $475 (4 wheels) (not sandblasted) and that was a friend of a friend discount.

 

That was sandblasting and coating using the powder I provided which was another $40. So really $90 per wheel all said and done. I think if he had to supply the powder it wouldve been $90-100

 

can i assume the powdercoating in my locale is same process as your locale?
because I got a quote on wheels here and its $65 per with blasting


^^^ these are NOT my wheels, just an example from local PC webpage

 

Yeah its a pretty strait forward process. I think prices are based on how much business they get. Less business=lower prices and vice-versa. Where @Speedytech7 and @Uphillshunter are at are way bigger cities than where Im located, more people means more car enthusiasts looking to have wheels done. That means powdercoaters can charge more, and still expect to see people pay.

Also, the type of wheel does make a difference. My 5 stars were cheaper than some more complex wheels cause it probably took a lot less time to sandblast.

 

You are 100% right about the higher volume = higher prices. And then add in the fact that CA just sucks ass and everything is automatically more expensive here, and it doesn't help.

My price was for a set of 4 FJ steel wheels... I ended up only paying about 50 bucks more for an entire set of Pro Comps than I would have paid for JUST powdercoat on the FJs

 

Had a moment last week, after filling up at the local gas station in the morning, I hopped onto the freeway only to get a CEL and the engine vibrating and stumbling. Managed to limp back home and took the moto into work. I thought it was bad gas at first because I recalled seeing the fuel truck parked behind the gas station; I might have gotten some sediment and/or other crap in my tank. Fuel dryer failed to resolve the issue but I did notice an exhaust leak at the flange of my forward cat. Dropped the truck off at a reputable local independent shop (they're always busy) and get a call a couple hours later:
1. Exhaust leak (as I mentioned), and
2. Bad coil wires
Had them go ahead and do the repair work. They installed a gasket (how'd that go missing, lol), replaced all plug wires and plugs and cleared the CEL. Both truck and I are happy. Next up is ordering a set of shocks. Anyone know if the eye-to-eye shock length is the same between a TRD and standard 1st generation models?

 

Picked up new brake shoes and hardware today. Ordering up all the seals and new bearings for the axles here in a bit. Driver's side axle seal sprung a leak during the last wheeling trip and has soaked the brake shoes on that side so just going to do both sides to be safe.

Making arrangements to pull the bed off the truck this weekend as well so I can do the rear shock relocation since I'm doing all this other work on the rear axle.

 

3 shock relocations going on simultaneously...

@jubei It's like when you me and @Robmonster117 were all tubbing at the same time.

 

I paid maybe $100 for my soda blast tank and $30 for a bag of media. Set up a tarp and you can do it at home.

 

Great minds and all that crap I guess.

Ok, question. Looking up the part #s for the axle shaft bearings and I am seeing 2 options.

Part # 903634002077 & part # 9036340068. I can see the visual difference and the later is referred to as Type B on some sites. Does it matter which one I use and do I need the corresponding axle shaft seal since there are 2 part #s for those as well? I do have the e-locker axle if that makes the difference.

 

I've just been using this kit.

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/toyo...ra-ultimate-rear-wheel-bearing-kit-w-abs.html

I know that technically doesn't answer your question but I am sure it is cheaper than buying each piece.

 

Thanks!

Looks like I can use this kit instead since I don't have ABS - http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/toyo...ultimate-rear-wheel-bearing-kit-per-side.html

That might also explain the bearing and seal differences that I'm seeing. Does that make the 01-04 bearings/seals better, assuming they would have been updated? They all fit in the same axle otherwise, right?

 

Ever since it got hot here in utah, My tranny has been shifting pretty rough....

Question is should I change the fluid or not? Truck has 165k mi. Not sure when the oil was last changed. Just bough the truck about 6 months ago.

 

Wouldn't hurt to do a complete flush of all fluids for piece of mind

 

Honestly the only difference should be the lack of tone ring and an additional collar. 01-04 with ABS is harder to change because you need to make sure the seal rides on the exact center of the collar. The non ABS one's the collar and seal is idiot proof IIRC.