3rd Gen Tacoma JBL Premium upgrade options.

I will start off saying that I have searched and while I found a good amount of info, still couldn't find with certainty what I was looking for.

I want to upgrade at very least my door speakers, on my 2017 DC Tacoma with JBL Premium. Before doing much research I ordered the Subaru tweeter kit hoping to upgrade, but since they don't fit i will be sending them back and just dealing with what is there. The door speakers to me sound horrible and i figure they are a decent place to start.

I see that the rear speakers are 4ohm and the fronts are 2ohm. I was looking to use these in the rear: https://www.amazon.com/JL-Audio-C2-650X-Evolution™-speakers/dp/B002PJ7FVG
then i read how some people used them in the rear and the front. So I thought I would give it a try.

Am I wasting my time doing this half-assed? I don't have much experience with wiring, car audio, and door/panel removal so I figured going this^ route is the safest.

Then I thought, what if i got these parts and just left the tweeters and the sub on the factory amp:
PAC ty12

$329 PAC R AP4-TY12 Amppro 4 Amp Interface (Select 2012-2018 Toyota(R) & Lexus(R) Vehicles with Jbl(R) or Premium Amplified Sound Systems), 1 Pack

https://www.amazon.com/PAC-Ap4-ty12-Interface-2012-2018-Amplified/dp/B078K5XDP9
Kick 4 chan amp

Kicker 45KEY1804 4-channel 45 x 4 Key Smart Amplifier

https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-45KEY1804-4-channel-Smart-Amplifier/dp/B079K3ZGR5
front speakers https://www.amazon.com/Audio-C2-690tx-6x9-Inch-Speakers-Tweeters/dp/B003633654
rear speakers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002PJ7FVG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
front adapter

$17 Metra 82-8146 6" x 9" Front Speaker Adapter for Select Lexus and Toyota Vehicles, Black, Apple

https://www.amazon.com/Metra-82-814...00IIC6CPE/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
rear adapter

$17 Metra Electronics 82-8148 6" to 6-3/4" Speaker Adapter for Select Toyota/Lexus/Scion 1998-Up Vehicles, Black

https://www.amazon.com/Metra-82-814...00IIC63P8/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Is it as easy as connecting the ty12 to the factory HU, run rca to kicker amp, use existing speaker wiring to front and rear doors and connect to the kicker amp, and place kicker amp high up in passenger wheel well?


I am not looking for a massive upgrade, i am just very disappointed in how awful the rear and front door speakers sound. Is there an easy option for just the door speakers without the ty12 and amp that i am missing? Thanks in advance and nice to finally post after lurking.

 

I know people choose the kicker because of convenience and cost but I can’t understand how you could buy any 75dB s/n amplifier ever, especially when other micro amplifier options exist.

This one has way better numbers, can handle 2 Ohm loads and only costs $100 more than the kicker

https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/power-amplifiers/acm-4300/

I would definitely not install a full range JL set of speakers and try to keep the stock tweeters in place. I would make an adaptor for the JL tweeters in the stock location or disconnect them if I mounted the JL tweeters somewhere else.

I think ultimately you will be looking for a way to replace the stock JBL subwoofer too, and that being the case, you might as well rip it all out and start from scratch.

 

I can deal with the sub at least for the time being, I would like to keep this around 800-1000. I am not set on the speakers, would i need a 6 channel or different 4 channel to add tweeters to go with front and rear doors?

 

To go with what front and rear doors? What you are talking about matters and I can’t really figure out if you are talking about replacements, or just adding tweeters.

It sounds like you would be best served by finding upgrades for your factory speakers that will work well with the JBL factory amplifier.

 

Apologies, I meant to say that after reading your suggestion, it sounds like it would be best to replace the front dash tweeters, front door speakers, and rear door speakers. Would i need a 6 channel amp to accomplish this rather than the 4 channel?

 

You would use a 4 channel if you use passive crossovers on a component set up front and full range coaxial in the rear. You only need 6 channel if you want to do fancy stuff.

You will also want to verify that your interface harness retains the factory subwoofer.

 

I run 2 of those audiocontrol 4 chanesl (and the matching 1 channel) in my truck. They are great amps and can fit nearly anywhere.

 

I'm about to find that out myself. Installing the 2CH for active highs on top of a HD900/5 for the front woofs and rear full range speakers. It's the nicest amplifier I could find that would fit.

 

Please let us know what you end up doing. I, and I'm sure a lot of us are in the same boat.

 

I was going to post when i finish, it's taken me longer than anticipated with new baby, work, life etc. I have been doing sound dampening as I am going, front seats all the way to the back wall have almost full coverage of noico 80mil, back wall and doors have same noico *and* mlv and ccf. LOVE the way it sounds, HATE the pain that it is to get it done. I do not like the sub, but its fine for now, I will cross that bridge later.


Ended up going with the following:

Subaru tweeters and making a bracket to get them to fit into dash. I bought these *before* i came the conclusion I wanted the focal components. When I am done, I am going to test with and without them. Perhaps bad planning on my part...

$100 Subaru Genuine Tweeter Kit Kicker WRX STi Forester Crosstrek Impreza H631SFJ101

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PV6F8I2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Focal components in the front, cut circles into the sail in the front doors to place them, will update with pics when all is said and done.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091165AS/Focal-Performance-165AS.html?omnews=15546282

PACTY12

$329 PAC R AP4-TY12 Amppro 4 Amp Interface (Select 2012-2018 Toyota(R) & Lexus(R) Vehicles with Jbl(R) or Premium Amplified Sound Systems), 1 Pack

https://www.amazon.com/PAC-Ap4-ty12...DP9?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAIIYFOKLBI535UV2A

5 channel amp (will be upgrading this in the future, but its working pretty well for now.)
https://phoenixgold.com/catalog/amplifiers/rx2-7505

Focal 2way for rear doors
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091ISC165/Focal-Integration-ISC-165.html?omnews=15546282

Have run into pains in the ass with brackets for front doors, multiple ones that crutchfield swore up and down would work did not (2017 DCSB *with* jbl upgrade system). I ended up flipping the brackets since I had the room between door and bezel and drilled better holes. I have one door left and plan on finishing in the next two nights. Cannot believe what a pain its been for the mlv and ccf in the doors, but i hear an audible difference and I am in the home stretch. So far I am incredibly happy with the focals/amp and sound dampening. It is an absolutely amazing difference in sound. So far only regrets are brackets on front door, stripping bold on lower back rear seat (was starting to rain and i rushed) and maybe the dash tweeter install, will know by the weekend.

 

This will be about the 100th time I've said it on here, but why anyone would want to drive aftermarket speakers with the garbage 8 ohm JBL amp is beyond me. That entire JBL system belongs in the scrap heap.

Not to insult anyone personally here, but I've ran Kicker speakers and they royally suck.

 

Agree 100% after doing even a small amount of research after i initially posted, which is why I went with an amp. The biggest thing though, is that if you were to run speakers in the doors as is with the JBL upgrade, you wouldn't get full range. I didn't know that at the beginning.

 

You may also need to change the headunit as well though. Otherwise you may lose all volume control. That's what happened when I changed my amp.

 

Nope, I do still have the existing amp in the back for HU/controls/cam. I just have speakers going to the new amp. Might change HU some day, but not a huge priority.

 

Ahh, I see what you are doing. Yeah the best way is to change it all out, and in time you will find eventually that it does indeed hinder you from unleashing your audio systems full potential. The only thing even worth any damns is the actual wiring itself.

 

At this point I am in so deep that I should have gone that route. However, I need new tires, wheels, and would like a lift. I had a budget and the audio portion of that budget is now maxxed out. Some day though. Hope at least part of this helps someone out, I will post pics of the tweeters in the sail, that part was kind of fun and rewarding.

 

Disappointed with the JBL as well...not sure what I was expecting since I've run Memphis most of my life. JBL is about as far down on the aftermarket ladder as it gets and this is supposed to be "premium" audio. My 2002 Honda Accord that's 17 years old had clearer highs and more volume. Started investigating gutting the tweeters to start small but it looks like the drop-in Kickers won't work. Was hoping for an easy solution since the truck is 2 weeks old with 800 miles LOL. Interested to see where this goes and gutting the entire thing isn't my cup of tea and I'm already building a 1960 Impala with full Memphis M-Class. Talk about money racket. Throwing in an extra amp, tweets, and front doors and leaving the stock rear and sub would be ite if it would work. I don't need the high school 2x12 W7s that rattle my brain...had enough of that 20 years ago. That said, some real clarity and sound would be nice.

 

Best I can suggest is:
PACTY12 to an aftermarket 5.1 amp.
Add tweeters (kicker tweeters worked with a help from home depot).
Add aftermarket speakers in doors, any new speakers, the existing ones suck, REALLY bad.
Keep existing amp.

This is a night and day difference without going full swap.

 

Oh by the way... To address a previous thing you mentioned @phocas the reason why you wouldn't get the full range of aftermarket speakers when running them on a JBL amp it is because most aftermarket speakers are 4 ohms right out of the gate. JBL speakers and the amp are designed to run 8 ohms. You could find some 8 ohm stuff on the market but it would limit your selection severely and on top of that the higher the resistance the hotter an amplifier will run. If you run 4 ohm speakers on the 8 ohm JBL as-is without some sort of line out converter amp you risk clipping the signal (I used to hear it a lot in my early configurations utilizing the JBL headunit and amp with aftermarket speakers) and ultimately blowing the speakers themselves out which can get expensive over time real quickly.

 

I am in this boat too. So if you did plan to pull everything out what would you recommend? I already know the headunit I would want to get (Kenwood Excelon DMX906S) but unsure on speakers, sub and amp (aside from I know 5.1). I am not an audiophile by any means but I find it annoying I can't listen to anything in the truck from audible to spotify to the normal radio without having it cranked up to 30-40 vol and still not hearing anything clearly. Not to mention at that volume people that call and I use hands free they complain they hear their own echo (I know that part of it is the mic) and since I have nothing deadened that doesn't help either.

I have zero car audio experience and do not mind putting in the work for it. I just do not understand how to wire crossovers with component systems. I understand the terms and what they imply but doing an install is something I have to research. Also the idea of going through a head unit install and getting a maestro to work, plus bluetooth (oh and mounting a new mic) and XM radio and cameras.

I did have one question about that I am looking to do a rear seat delete and I do not want the amp/sub mounted on the back wall. I would prefer an amp under one seat and a sub under another seat. I also read about rear speakers swapped for a speaker sub. The only people that ride in the truck are me or me and my wife. So having everything up front would be nice.

Open to ideas / suggestions since this thread popped up. Not trying to hijack, but just learn more.