What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Can anyone help me with a carfax report? I heard some can run unlimited reports... please let me know, thank you in advance

 

Currently trying to replace the pinion seal on the rear diff. I have the drive shaft separated but can’t get the companion flange off the diff. How hard can I go with a mallet on that without damaging it?

 

There's a thread on TW where you can post your vin and the OP will run it for you

I think it's this one

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/free-autocheck-running-carfax.466088/

 

Depending on if the last guy to assemble it used anti-seize on the splines, you might be fighting some corrosion locking the flange onto the pinion. You can go pretty hard with a mallet on it, but you might try putting an axial load on the flange while you do that, such as a come-along from a crossmember to the flange.

Do you have a solid pinion spacer? What is your plan for setting the pinion preload during reassembly?

 

My pinion seal has a slow leak...constantly wet around the bolts. Not bad enough that I'm gonna tackle it yet though. Was yours leaking really bad?

 

I don't think this seller wants to get rid of the xtended cab...theres no way I'm going late in the day to look at this truck.

 

Went on a 1,000 road trip and it sling gear oil all over the rear of the truck. Figured I would just change it when I was ready to do a fluid change. Front diff only had half a quart of fluid in it :0

Rear had about the right amount but was definitely a bit dark.

I got the flange off with the mallet. Just took a while. Trying to press the seal in now and will just tighten the pinion nut to where it was before plus I think another 1/16 or so of a turn

 

So, I didn't do a thorough look through Belmetric on amazon, but I picked something on the first page of search results - (2pcs) BelMetric M10X1.25X50 A2-70 Stainless Steel - $15.99.

Holy smokes that's expensive. You can get those same two bolts from boltdepot.com for $.89 each. Less than $2.00 for the same thing. Now, you have to pay shipping, but even then, it's way cheaper. And the more bolts you purchase, the more you'll save (b/c their shipping is reasonably cheap as you increase qty.).

 

I got rid of the factory cross member for the tire carrier and welded the winch to the new cross member. I was then able to raise the Jerry can holder even higher. Not that I had any issue with it hitting anything with the factory crossmember though.

 

For future reference a 3 Jaw puller works perfectly. 2 Jaw will likely suffice as well.






Just did my SPC upper bj and an alignment in under an hour!

 

Did you have any issues getting a good alignment with the SPCs? I just put some on and even after the alignment shop "corrected" it, it still has 1.9 and 1.5 degrees of positive camber? Is that normal?

 

Position D? It is the one that comes recommended on the instruction sheet. It just looks funky, if its suppose to be like that its cool, I just want to make sure I'm not wearing anything out quicker that it needs to be.

 

How using tubing as cross braces flex more then the stock one..

 

No. Sounds like an incompetent tech. I will say that with my old spindles I couldn't get 0° and keep my cams maxed but if I would have adjusted the cams I'm confident I could have dialed it in. Those were negative though. I don't think I could go positive if I wanted to.

 

He said camber not castor. Is castor what you meant @Tacofire98?

 

Nay. I feel like I am unable to reach 0* and am stuck in the positive camber, even with maxed out cams. You mentioned different spindles, are they longer ones?

 

Thanks Ryan eon blue

 

I just got another set to gusset since I assumed my originals were bent. Having the cams maxed isn't the best if you can't get your camber better. If you adjust the front one so it pushes the arm out it should help. How much lift do you have?

 

Im sitting at 2 in lift with all the weight have on it. right now i think all my cams are maxed out and the ball joint being maxed inward.

 

Sounds like something isn't quite right. I'd suggest something is bent but they're both similar so that isn't likely it. Your front cam bolts are as inboard as possible and your rears are as outboard as possible, correct?