TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Or just release the whipple for us so i have a reason to splurge

 

There is really no reason to reinvent the wheel. If he REALLY wants to innovate, he can be the PIONEER of a hybrid Roots/ whipple blower design which utilizes the TRD supercharger case housing for our MP90s, but contains a revolutionary twin screw URD exclusive TVS designed by them which fits within the physical housing itself.

It is doable as Magnuson and Eaton worked on the design in the past for the M90s, and had a few prototypes ready to drop in, but eventually tabled the idea.

 

While that would probably get a lot of you existing supercharged guys to upgrade, itd be easier to just offer it for those of us who dont have a blower or those who would still want to upgrade

 

Its options though you know. It's like I always harped in the beginning of this thread, options are a great thing, and if us current boostees wanted to take our modding the extra step, we would have the ultimate upgrade without going through all of it again.

 

I would try it. If it comes in my size.

 

Urd could offer precision bearings, belts, a whipple, or cams. There is a market for all those goodies.

 

Yes there is.

 

When the cam gears get finalized, we ought to tell the XRU folks. I wonder if they have found HPTuner?

 

Do it! Move the market.

 

I've run Amsoil exclusively in all of our vehicles and power equipment for years. Very happy with it. FWIW, I like their zero-weight Signature Series oil (e.g., 0W-30) - excellent cold-flow properties without sacrificing higher-temp performance/protection.

 

It doesn’t get very cold out here even in winter time, and according to toyota 10w-30 is good for 0° F and up, so I am gonna start using that exclusively. I’ve even considering using a 15w-40, but I want to see how 10w-30 does first.

 

Ive been doing 10w-40 for over a year now and its been good

 

I'm in Canada and I wouldn't run 0w-30 in an engine unless it calls for it. Call me silly but I believe that the engineers who designed our engines knew what weight would work best. Especially given that the VVT-i system relies on viscosity to function correctly. When you change the cold viscosity number, you effect the viscosity all the way up to operating temperature. I'm perfectly happy sticking to 5w-30. That being said, there isn't much actual difference between 0w-30 and 5w-30 on most charts I've seen so you could probably get away with it. Going to 15w-40 though... just pray you don't have to start below freezing!

 

I agree. They pay a guy 6 figures to determine that. I'd feel pretty stupid to cause engine failure experimenting. However, if guys here try it with success I'll be open to new #'s.

 

I added some more information. The real risk is if you have to start below freezing. Up top there is a surprisingly little difference between a 30 weight and a 40 weight. However, below 0c, the difference between a 0, 5, 10, and 15 weight are pretty extreme. Especially between 5 and 15.

 

"Cold" is somewhat relative, in that most engine wear is at startup when, no matter what the temp, oil isn't flowing throughout the engine and takes some amount of time to do so. Zero-weight oil minimizes the time, regardless of the ambient temp, minimizing the wear.

According to pg 536 of the 2014 Toyota Tacoma Owner's Manual, "SAE 5W-30 is the best choice for good fuel economy and good starting in cold weather. If SAE 5W-30 is not available, SAE 10W-30 oil may be used. However, it should be replaced with SAE 5W-30 at the next oil change."

Pg 456 of the 2013 Owner's Manual contains similar verbiage.

As indicated in the Owner's Manual excerpts, that's not how oil viscosities work. It also doesn't account for the decreased shear that occurs when running high-quality synthetic oil.

 

I know this will be stirring the pot here, but from another oil thread, here is a picture from a vehicle’s owners manual that has a 1GR-FE in it where the countries don’t have CAFE regulations.

Same Toyota engineers, same engine, different regulations to follow being the only difference.

 

For reasons that escape me, oil discussions always devolve, like those about politics and religion.

Your point about CAFE standards is well-taken. In the end, we're all free to choose the oil (brand, type, viscosity, etc) with which we're comfortable. There's little value in arguing about it, and there's probably little difference in engine protection as long as you're using quality oil & filters and changing them regularly.

 

I will say for one, I totally understand the risk of cold starts. I am a bit of a nut so if I was going on say a trip where it’s going to be freezing I would probably drain my oil and put in 5w-30 before hand.
The big thing for me is, from my own research I gather that at hotter temps in general the thicker oil has better protection, and the lower the gap between the W and final number the more stable that oil is after being exposed to heat for long amounts of time (so towards the end of your oil change interval).

I understand the risks of the thicker oils, but for me I’d rather run an oil that will protect the truck when I am beating on it best, instead of what is the best mpg oil that is such a small difference you cannot tell. When manufacturers sell vehicles in bull their mpg numbers are also calculated as such. So a .001 mpg difference doesn’t make much for the single driver, but over millions of vehicles that number adds up.

 

Well said. I know 5w-30 is a great oil, my tundra with the 1gr has 358k on it running that oil its whole life. The cheap stuff not even good synthetic, and I am sure it has had its fair share of changes over the OCI and it’s still putting along. That poor A750 on the original WS fill though, I am not so sure about.