TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I have 13k miles on my current oil

 

I don't know that I've seen a day over 45 c in Canada in the last five years. Even when I wheel the USA I try to avoid July and August for that reason. Punishing a truck on trail in 40 plus conditions is just asking for problems.

Hmm, I don't think that's 100 percent how it works protection wise. Yes, with dino oil, the thicker it is the more it tends to stick where it's thrown. However, with Synthetic, it's not as big a difference. Synthetic prefers to adhere in a thin layer rather than splash off like dino. So in theory if you go synthetic you are effectively getting the retention benefits of a thicker oil without the other possibly negative characteristics of a heavier oil.

Given 5w-30 Penz Plat and Amsoil have been shown to hold within spec for well over 10,000 miles on multiple occasions I'm not sure I'd advise switching to a heavier weight for durability reasons. I think the age old advice of maintaining an aggressive OCI when worried is probably better advice on that end. That's not great for the environment but, hey, these trucks aren't a Tesla.

That all being said good luck in your experiments!

 

It happens on here because there is almost zero replicated data on swapping oils or weights on the same engine. As such, much like those topics, it becomes a discussion of opinions rather than a debate around facts.

 

I just use the Mobil 1 Costco special. $28 for 6 quarts on sale. I stock up when there’s a rebate available from M1. $12 rebate on each case. $4 oil filter from Toyota. Easy.

 

I loved M1 as a teen but once the whole shenanigan went down with Castrol and M1 I swore off both those brands. I don't like companies that willingly cut corners and get away with it. Castrol did that and M1 was forced to follow them after losing in court about what made a Synthetic Oil a Synthetic Oil. The only two brands I know of that still use a mostly "true" synthetic base are Amsoil and Penz Platinum so I've stuck with them. I don't think it's a fluke either that those two brands tend to come up on the BITOG forums as testing the best on extended intervals.

 

After the lawsuits between Castrol and M1 there isn't much difference in the basic product between Amazon generic sythetic, Supertech, M1, Castrol Edge, or Valvoline synthetic. All of those brands chose the cheapest blend of oil classes that meets the legal definition of synthetic. The differences between those brands would be on the additive blends used, which is a big deal but still, why buy synthetic oil when it's only synthetic by legal definition? Penz Plat uses a custom made base derived from natural gas though a gas to liquid process, which is what synthetic oil meant before the legal departments of several companies got involved. From what I've heard, Amsoil buys their base only from Shell for this reason as well.

Again some facts in there but it's mostly personal opinions. I just don't like hammering a product down to a legal definition rather than reality. I'm sure most people would agree that when they buy a synthetic oil, in their minds, they want an oil that didn't start off as crude oil. They want something that wasn't just cracked down to a spec, but built up to a spec. I know, splitting hairs and let's be honest, all companies including Penz and Amsoil use some cracked base in their formulations. I guess it's just a bit of personal opinion over where the product should start from to be considered synthetic motor oil lol.

 

Can’t argue with that. It used to be I’d hear nothing but good things about Amsoil and Redline. Nowadays it’s just Amsoil.

 

I have the URD spec-U exhaust and while there are some things I would definitely change about it. It does fit in all the clearance issues that I think you are battling. I can take some pics of the underside of my truck if you would like.

 

To bad more of you don't have oil temp and or oil pressure gauges.

You'd get the opportunity to see how the oil weight holds up in the different conditions and climates that you put the engine though.

 

Those are on my list next. I have been trying to find a dual gauge for that purpose.

 

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I do know this. Years back had a filter relocate plate. I believe it was the delay in oil circulation that lead to a soon after drop in oil pressure.

 

I've never liked how the aftermarket sensor is usually setup on the 1GR. The oil pressure sensor on the 1GR is a dummy, basically it senses if there is engine oil pressure or not lol, so if you want a gauge without drilling and porting a sensor in you have to T off that pressure sensor. That T is a pretty easy failure point IMHO. I guess with the HPTuners software you could always turn off the pressure sensor... but then you better watch your custom gauges closely!

 

The contraption I was looking into basically screws onto the oil filter housing, and has 3 ports to get readings from. You just screw your oil filter on to that as normal. Urd used to sell them but I can’t find it on their website now.

 

If the dummy lights turn on its too late. Shits fucked.

Id never suggest T-ing them without using a flex line and hard mounting the sensor. Usually tees end up breaking off blocks.

Sandwich plates are really the best option if theres room.

 

I've seen @Athlaos use a sandwich plate. Seems to be plenty of room.

 

Hmm the sandwhich plates I’ve seen always ended up having leaks over time. The gaskets didn’t seem to hold up well. I’d be interested to see someone here do a long term review of a couple. I know some version of the sandwich plate was popular with GM guys in the 90s and fell right off the map due to leaks.

 

My sandwich plate is leaking.... Have to change oil soon anyhow and might be tempted to rtv the plate where it meets the engine.

 

I have this oil sandwich plate for 6 years now and haven’t had any problems. Use it to check oil pressure which confirmed my engine problems I had 6 years ago.
https://www.mishimoto.com/oil-plate-sandwich-adapter.html

 

Oil filter sandwich plate. Unless you have an aftermarket oil cooler, then that plate may also has ports for additional sensors.

My oil pressure sensor is threaded I to the plug behind the oil filter. Leaving the ports on the oil cooler plate open for additional sensors.

Edit*** just saw everyone else's posts.

 

I have the Greddy thermostatically controlled oil cooler plate. It's O-ring has never had a problem.

Pretty sure they also have just a sandwich plate.