What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

That seems like a bad idea haha

 

Not interested in having a certain specific discontinued part on my truck enough to pay over double the amount I can get it elsewhere.

 

Oh I'm the same way, whenever I do end up redoing my rear shocks it'll be the same way everybody else is doing it or very close. I won't be buying a "kit" off the shelf

 

Nah, I mean, this is how the blade is made in the first place.

Couple new ones getting delivered today, but I'm impatient. This will hold me over. Cutting away nicely now.

Reminder to always buy two when you're down to one spare.

 

so Im not super sure how much research you've done on this all.

But it looks like you are planning on doing shocks /\ which is fine. However, Im pretty doubtful you'll get to fit 12'' shocks in there super well and have them operating in a nice way(effectively due to the angle, as in not dampening anyone). And if you do, you'll be sacrificing up travel which is in short order being SOA as is and then your ride quality will suffer a lot.

Obviously, this is all subjective and depends on what you want the truck to ride like. If you don't like going very fast over rough terrain and enjoy the crawling stuff more you'll likely be fine. Either way, you'll probably have to really play with the valving to get them to work well being at such an angle. Such is the life of shocks though.

That said, if you're doing all that work. Box the frame while you're in there.

 

I agree with what @Blackdawg said. Trail gears frame box kit comes with a shock mount crossmember. You'll just need the lower mounts from rough stuff.

@jubei and @cynicalrider are both in the process of doing there shock relocates. Not with 63s but I'd imagine the upper mounts may be similar.

 

You and me both.

 

I've done a bit of research on this. I've found differing opinions on most everything lol (such is life on Tw most of the time though)

I'm planning on doing the minimum amount of /\ as possible. I'd like to get them as close to || as possible. I realize 12' is pushing the envelope. But I'm not opposed to doing a 1 inch body lift to allow the crossmember more room (under the bed floor) to move up, also looking at mounting the lower mount as low as possible without being a meat hook under the axle.

I don't do a whole lot of go fast stuff.

Definitely good call on the frame boxing. I had thought about that and then forgot about it again... that right there is exactly why I asked the questions.




Another thing - I'm looking to do as close to || and behind the axle. In all of the write ups I have read, I don't think I've ever seen any good description of how to determine how far behind the axle the upper mounts go. Is it just match the upper location of the driver side stock upper mount?

 

If you want them as vertical without the lower mounts hanging about 3-4'' below the axle, you need to get 10'' shocks. Sorry Short body 10'' shocks actually..the 12s will have very very little up travel and your ride will be miserable. I believe @drr has done 12'' foxes with 63s and is planning on redoing it due to this exact reason.

If you get new shocks, get some 2.5'' body ones too, the extra oil will be good for controlling the massive fat ass of all the gear in the back.

You can use the Diver side upper as a reference. You will also be limited on space where the cross bar can go on top of the frame and clear the bed. Will need to take measurements for that. Unless you do a 1'' BL then you'll have a lot of room to work with.

I honestly wouldn't recommend completely vertical and just a little back angle like 5-10º to help with axle wraps and twist.

 

Mine are vertical on both axys. I have a 1" bl though so I was able to make the mounts directly above the axle.

Are the 63s that soft that axle wrap is an issue with all 190hp?

 

Basically try to match the shocks travel to the wheel travel. So as vertical as possible left to right, front to back with a slight angled back lean cause of the way the axle moves.

EDIT @Blackdawg beat me.

 

Wheel travel is only accurate if the whole axle is moving equally.

 

But won’t the axle move on the relatively same line arc of travel regardless of if it’s only flexed on one side vs axle at full bump and droop?

 

Roaming about through the world like a lion....jk. Got 5 new Method beadlocks finally I'm liking them so far but haven't aired down. Went to Utah but couldn't bring the Taco. RV we rented only tows 2500 lbs. Planning on going back soon this summer or next and see how it'll do up there. Bringing mountain bikes too. The arches were cool saw a few of those last week. And going to an offroad park in CO Springs to hopefully get all 4 off the ground again.

 

Yes but your wheel is out past the spring/fulcrum.

 

I know you're getting the normal, "everyone has an opinion," so I'll just try to answer one of your questions...

How far back the top mount goes recently came up in my build thread, and may be useful for you...

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-and-adventures.484602/page-120#post-20787464

And of course, I wrote up my entire relocate with lots of photos. Like the guys here have said, I used 10" shocks... And could not have for 12, having done it twice now, hahahahahaha.


Tacoma Rear Shock Relocation - Collecting Parts and Heading South


Tacoma Rear Shock Relocation - Fabrication...and Failure


Tacoma Rear Shock Relocation - Scrapping the First Attempt and Trying Again

 

They can be if you dont keep the overload spring. Most dont so the long length of the 63s combined without an overload will certainly cause axle wrap.

That's why some, mine included, keep the overload front half, and trim the rear half. It helps.

 

I know what you're doing,


Charging full price for new, unused parts ya bastid

 

You mean the BAMF kit?